Pre-Build Questions
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Pre-Build Questions
Getting ready to build a 50W #124 ODS. Just ordered the chassis and have some questions...
Getting Parts:
Where can I get all the eyelet boards I need (main, power, bias, FET, 12V). I don't like to make my own boards. Is there someone I can buy these boards off of?
Where can I get the 5 wire DIN cable and sockets?
Random Part Questions:
The 1mF presence cap and the 4.7mF caps on the FET board. Are they tantalum they sure look like it?
Is the 100pF cap on the FET board a silver mica?
I am using a 12V-0V-12V transformer. I figure this is better cause I wont have issues with voltage dropping off when all relays are engaged. Is this correct thinking? Any issues with using this transformer?
I see on the real 124 HAD used fancy over spec 1% cathode resistors. I cant imagine they have much to any effect on tone. Seems most people just use carbon film. Is this the way to do it?
Tweaking:
Seems like lots of tweaking can be done by playing with pot's value. Besides the stock pots what else should I stock up on?
Thanks![/b]
Getting Parts:
Where can I get all the eyelet boards I need (main, power, bias, FET, 12V). I don't like to make my own boards. Is there someone I can buy these boards off of?
Where can I get the 5 wire DIN cable and sockets?
Random Part Questions:
The 1mF presence cap and the 4.7mF caps on the FET board. Are they tantalum they sure look like it?
Is the 100pF cap on the FET board a silver mica?
I am using a 12V-0V-12V transformer. I figure this is better cause I wont have issues with voltage dropping off when all relays are engaged. Is this correct thinking? Any issues with using this transformer?
I see on the real 124 HAD used fancy over spec 1% cathode resistors. I cant imagine they have much to any effect on tone. Seems most people just use carbon film. Is this the way to do it?
Tweaking:
Seems like lots of tweaking can be done by playing with pot's value. Besides the stock pots what else should I stock up on?
Thanks![/b]
Re: Pre-Build Questions
mouser has the din sockets. I used a MIDI cable for mine.ChrisM wrote:Where can I get the 5 wire DIN cable and sockets?
yesThe 1mF presence cap and the 4.7mF caps on the FET board. Are they tantalum they sure look like it?
you can use silver mica or ceramic. either is fineIs the 100pF cap on the FET board a silver mica?
You only need 12V. That xformer is overkill. 6-0-6 will do the job just fine.I am using a 12V-0V-12V transformer. I figure this is better cause I wont have issues with voltage dropping off when all relays are engaged. Is this correct thinking? Any issues with using this transformer?
no need to 1% resistors, but check them before installing.I see on the real 124 HAD used fancy over spec 1% cathode resistors. I cant imagine they have much to any effect on tone. Seems most people just use carbon film. Is this the way to do it?
Re: Pre-Build Questions
Hey thanks for the advice Bob.
Can you link me to the cable and sockets on Mouser? I looked for them but could not find them
.
Can you link me to the cable and sockets on Mouser? I looked for them but could not find them
Re: Pre-Build Questions
The cable is just a MIDI cable, cut off the ends and wire it to the DIN connectors.ChrisM wrote:Hey thanks for the advice Bob.
Can you link me to the cable and sockets on Mouser? I looked for them but could not find them.
The sockets and jacks are 5 pin locking DIN made by Deltron. I don't have the part number but you should be able to find it from that.
-
tubedogsmith
- Posts: 597
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2005 11:52 pm
Re: Pre-Build Questions
I use the Kobicon 5 pin DIN jacks, mouser part # 161-0005 I put one in the amp and one in the pedal box and then get the 5 pin MIDI cords at GC with two male ends. Anything you can do to keep from wiring that cable to a plug is worth it in my book.
Re: Pre-Build Questions
Chris,
In T-dot you can buy the 5 pin female DINs from Sayal Electronics. Also, I just bought a couple of MIDI cables off Ebay to use with a recent build:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0432212091
Cheep shipping to Canada
PM me if you want to yak about building - I'm in Port Credit.
Cheers, Brian
In T-dot you can buy the 5 pin female DINs from Sayal Electronics. Also, I just bought a couple of MIDI cables off Ebay to use with a recent build:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0432212091
Cheep shipping to Canada
PM me if you want to yak about building - I'm in Port Credit.
Cheers, Brian
"Let's face it, the non HRMs are easier to play, there, I've said it." - Gil Ayan... AND HE"S IN GOOD COMPANY!
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
Re: Pre-Build Questions
Hey guys
Any idea where I can buy solid core PVC in smallish quantities?
Also I am using a 12V-0V-12V transformer. Should I bother using the voltage doubler circuit. Or should I just setup a full wave recto with two diodes and add the necessary filtering?
I dont think I need the voltage doubling and a full wave seems more stable than a voltage doubler.
Any idea where I can buy solid core PVC in smallish quantities?
Also I am using a 12V-0V-12V transformer. Should I bother using the voltage doubler circuit. Or should I just setup a full wave recto with two diodes and add the necessary filtering?
I dont think I need the voltage doubling and a full wave seems more stable than a voltage doubler.
Re: Pre-Build Questions
Chris
Here is mouser# on 20AWG Solid core white.. Great wire, sits well in the chassis, easy to strip and work with, looks good and rated 1000v.. I recommend it highly..
(I used to get wire from Apex but is not on a spool... A personal irritant..)
I need my wire to be on a spool Damn it!!!
602-1563-100-01
20AWG SOLID WHT 1KV 07/14/09 1 21.730 21.73
Tony VVT
What if this is as good as it gets!!
Here is mouser# on 20AWG Solid core white.. Great wire, sits well in the chassis, easy to strip and work with, looks good and rated 1000v.. I recommend it highly..
(I used to get wire from Apex but is not on a spool... A personal irritant..)
I need my wire to be on a spool Damn it!!!
602-1563-100-01
20AWG SOLID WHT 1KV 07/14/09 1 21.730 21.73
Tony VVT
What if this is as good as it gets!!
- dano-rator
- Posts: 150
- Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 5:25 pm
- Location: s.jersey
Re: Pre-Build Questions
Chuck an old spool in the drill press and let 'er rip!I need my wire to be on a spool Damn it!!!
Re: Pre-Build Questions
Apex Jr is probably still the best deal going for solid core with a teflon jacket. For PVC, I like the wire from McMaster. Great price and you can order in quantities as little as 25ft.
When using a 12-0-12V transformer, use one leg plus the center tap into a full-wave bridge. This will give you about 15V rectified (as I recall) which is just about right for an LM7812 voltage regulator.
When using a 12-0-12V transformer, use one leg plus the center tap into a full-wave bridge. This will give you about 15V rectified (as I recall) which is just about right for an LM7812 voltage regulator.
briane wrote:... it really is a journey, and you just can't farm out the battle wounds.
Re: Pre-Build Questions
After having a few instances of trouble with solid core wire I moved on to the stranded teflon.
If you bend the solid core one too many times it can break and in one case it broke just inside the jacket causing several days of hair loss.
I do like to use solid core for heater wires because it stays where you bend it but for all flying leads I prefer stranded 600v Teflon or PVC.
If you bend the solid core one too many times it can break and in one case it broke just inside the jacket causing several days of hair loss.
I do like to use solid core for heater wires because it stays where you bend it but for all flying leads I prefer stranded 600v Teflon or PVC.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!
Re: Pre-Build Questions
Thanks for the Mouser help Tony.
As for Aprex Jr. are you guys talking about PTFE wire at the top of this page http://www.apexjr.com/wire.html ? Also so you have to call to place your order?
Finally it looks like in real ODS the wire is a thinish guage. Maybe the insulation is just minimal. What do you think AWG 22 or 20?
As for Aprex Jr. are you guys talking about PTFE wire at the top of this page http://www.apexjr.com/wire.html ? Also so you have to call to place your order?
Finally it looks like in real ODS the wire is a thinish guage. Maybe the insulation is just minimal. What do you think AWG 22 or 20?
Re: Pre-Build Questions
It's best to call Apex as he doesn't show everything he has on the site.
Then you can pick his brain about the wire he has.
I believe the original ODS amps such as #124 used PVC wire and it should be rated at 600v.
Possibly 400v wire would work fine.
If you are trying for an exact clone check out ic-racer's posts since I think he has pulled it off concerning #124.
The neat thing about Teflon wire is that you won't be melting or burning the insulation when you accidentally touch your iron to it or when weaving the iron through wires.
The Teflon shielded cable is great as well since you won't melt the inner jacket when heating up the braided shield.
I suppose it just depends on how authentic to #124 you want or need to be.
Then you can pick his brain about the wire he has.
I believe the original ODS amps such as #124 used PVC wire and it should be rated at 600v.
Possibly 400v wire would work fine.
If you are trying for an exact clone check out ic-racer's posts since I think he has pulled it off concerning #124.
The neat thing about Teflon wire is that you won't be melting or burning the insulation when you accidentally touch your iron to it or when weaving the iron through wires.
The Teflon shielded cable is great as well since you won't melt the inner jacket when heating up the braided shield.
I suppose it just depends on how authentic to #124 you want or need to be.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!