Okay, woodworkers...

[Sonny ReVerb]

You can actually get cyanoacrylate (super glue) in several different viscosities. I like the medium for general use, but the thin does wick the best (sometimes too well). They also have accelerators which will instantly harden the CA when you spray it on. Check at your local Hobby Shop. Here are just two examples:

http://www.caglue.com/products.html

http://www.zapglue.com/

[gahult]

Gary - Tolex and super glue are actually best friends. I've repaired rips in Tolex on several Marshall and Fender cabs using super glue if I couldn't reactivate the original glue.

OK, I'll make note of that. I haven't had to do any tolex repairs, save a frayed corner here and there.

Thanks,

Gary

[dano-rator]

You could try drilling into the joint at an (edited confusing spelling error) angle from the inside with a small diameter bit, use syringe or same bit to work adhesive of choice into the joint. A little putty and touch up w/ paint if needed would be a pretty hard to find repair.

Just easy with drill pressure!

Dan

[solderstain]

Thanks again, everyone -

... I've never been impressed with its wicking ability...

Can you get to both sides of the joint? You can force "wicking" with a vacuum placed on one side of the joint, applying glue to the other.
A vacuum cleaner will work. Use a crevice tool to concentrate the vacuum.

Tim - I hadn't thought of that approach - I can use that idea elsewhere. I'll have to file that idea among the few remaining working brain cells I have left. I can't use it here because there are two layers of Tolex over the outside of the joint(s) I need to glue. That wood joint is right where the 'side' piece of Tolex wrap up over the top of the amp and is overlain by the 'top' piece of Tolex.

I've pretty much decided that water thin super glue is my best bet. It also helps that I always have it in the shop along with pipettes to apply it. I probably knew I'd end up with this answer, but there are so many of you who have wood skillz I lack, I decided to run this up the flag pole and see what the collective might have to offer. I appreciate those of you who participated and offered suggestions.

[dreric]

Personally, I try and avoid super glues at any cost (have glued my hand to the workbench a few times). They are volatile, temperamental, age very poorly both on and off the shelf.

That said, there are times when they are perfect solutions I just don't think this is one of them. IMO, they dry far too brittle to be used in large weight bearing joints. The water thin is prone to wicking all over the place before you've even taken the applicator away. Another big factor is the set up time. Water thin sets in about 30 to 180 seconds depending on the freshness of the glue and the temperature. That's not a lot of time to set your clamps. If you are a beginner woodworker I'd advise avoiding the supers (and the gorilla).

What I would offer is

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 42965&ap=1

It's great glue designed to do exactly what you want it to. It wicks and sticks in old joints. It's almost as strong as tight bond (which BTW is way stronger than any of the supers) and it has a water clean up!

Just my .02

Eric

[Structo]

What kind of glue is the chair doctor?

[dreric]

I don't have my bottle in front of me but if memory serves is an aliphatic resin glue same as titebond. The manufacturer, Lee valley /veritas makes very high quality products.

Eric

[jaydawg]

What kind of glue is the chair doctor?

That's what I was going to suggest. If you buy the little kit at Woodcraft or someplace like that it comes with a syringe with different sized tips. The glue is basically a watered down wood glue that will wick into the cracks.

[skyboltone]

Is it too late to suggest cleats and screws (at least in the bottom end)?

+1