Okay, woodworkers...

[solderstain]

I need to reglue the vertical endplates of the 2x12 Fender Pro/Twin cab. They're loose - I can move them with my finger, and hear and feel them vibrate when playing, especially in the lower registers.

I hope to just glue/clamp them and keep rockin'...

So the question to woodworkers (I'm not one...) is: What glue is the best for applying to the end joints and has the ability to wick itself into the joints?

[Structo]

Well for new wood joints it's hard to beat Titebond Original.

But if there is old glue on there you may want to consider a urethane glue like Gorilla glue.

I believe it works best to pre-wet the joint with water. (not too much)

It will expand when applied from what I've read so either mask everything before clamping or wipe clean with damp cloth.
Also put wax paper between any clamping cauls and the glue.

[solderstain]

Thanks for the suggestion, Tom... maybe you can help me out...

I use Gorilla glue for other (non-woodworking) projects, so I'm a little familiar with it. I've never been impressed with its wicking ability. I kind of think of Gorilla glue in the same sense as Titebond and Elmer's, etc - you need to apply it before mating the two pieces together.

Since this old Fender cab is still in one piece, and the Tolex is still covering the joints, here's how I envisioned doing this:

Take all the mechanical parts out (speakers, chassis, reverb tank).

Apply a LITTLE bead of glue to the joints at the bottom, allow the glue to wick, and then clamp.

After the glue has hardened, flip the cab over, and repeat.

So regarding the Gorilla glue, is there more than one kind? I use super-thin, water-consistancy super glue for certain guitar repairs, particular for its strength and its ability to wick itself deep into cracks.

I know, I know... the obvious - use super-thin super glue, but something in my little pea brain says that there might be something better for this application.

I'm not against Gorilla glue in particular - I just don't get that it 'wicks' well enough for this job.

What's your experience with that?

[Phil_S]

Tom makes a really important point. New glue will not stick to old glue. However, there are some products that are not traditional glue products. Gorilla is probably one of them. The one I'm familiar with first-hand is Weldbond. Read the label to see if it will stick to old glue, otherwise you will need to take it apart to remove the old glue if you want it to stick. Obviously, you don't want to do this.

You might consider using a binary epoxy product, but these set very quickly and are not so easy to clean up. Whether you should consider it depends on how difficult it is to clamp whatever you are trying to fix. Epoxy is good where there is wood loss due to rot or whatever, as it functions as both glue and filler.

[Structo]

If you need it to wick into the joint then maybe super glue is the ticket.

But man, you gots to be careful with that stuff.

I was gluing something in an amp with that and all of sudden a big blob squirted out!
Nasty clean up.

[solderstain]

Thanks, Phil - the whole 'old glue' subject isn't lost on me, but you're right - I have no intention of disassembling this cab to clean the old glue out of the joints. If I was inclined to go that far, I wouldn't need to be asking this question. The Tolex on this old cab '('74) is in remarkably good shape (9/10), so it's ridiculous for me to consider peeling the Tolex away from the joints and unmount the baffle, yadda yadda yadda, to get this apart and clean out the old glue. I hope to find something that's strong, has wicking ability, and plays nicely with old glue. That's not asking too much... is it?

I'm not against Gorilla glue... really. I just think it has too much viscosity to do much wicking. If I'm wrong about that, I'd love to hear it. I know I'll only get one shot at this (without taking it apart).

Maybe I'm asking too much - maybe I should start looking for a good repro replacement cab...

[solderstain]

If you need it to wick into the joint then maybe super glue is the ticket.

But man, you gots to be careful with that stuff.

I was gluing something in an amp with that and all of sudden a big blob squirted out!
Nasty clean up.

Yeh, careful is the word. When I'm using the water-thin stuff for a guitar repair, I use a pipette to apply one drop at a time. And because the stuff wicks so well, one drop goes a long way.

Thanks - maybe super glue IS my best option...

[Structo]

Is there any way to inject the glue with a syringe type applicator?

[billyz]

I have done this quite a few times. And I found the water thin super glue works pretty well.

[solderstain]

I have done this quite a few times. And I found the water thin super glue works pretty well.

Ah! This is encouraging. This may be easier than I thought. Thanks for chiming in, Billy.

[DonMoose]

Is it too late to suggest cleats and screws (at least in the bottom end)?

[gahult]

If you use the super glue be careful it doesn't wick threw and react with you tolex.

Even the fumes could do that.

I would check just a bit in a hidden area....bottom back corner maybe first.

Gary

[mcrracer]

PL Premium Polyurethane adhesive in the caulking gun tube. Inject it into your joints, work it in further with a popscickle stick. Clamp and let dry. You will have a joint where the wood will break before the joint ever will. You can also dampen the joints with water before applying the adhesive.

[solderstain]

Thanks for all the feedback, guys...

If you use the super glue be careful it doesn't wick threw and react with you tolex.

Even the fumes could do that.

I would check just a bit in a hidden area....bottom back corner maybe first.

Gary

Gary - Tolex and super glue are actually best friends. I've repaired rips in Tolex on several Marshall and Fender cabs using super glue if I couldn't reactivate the original glue.

mcrracer - thanks for the tip on that poly adhesive. I'm going to do some reading on it and see how successful it is on a contaminated joint.

Thanks again, everyone.

[drhulsey]

... I've never been impressed with its wicking ability...

Can you get to both sides of the joint? You can force "wicking" with a vacuum placed on one side of the joint, applying glue to the other.
A vacuum cleaner will work. Use a crevice tool to concentrate the vacuum.