If building a d-clone, what type/brand of pots would you use

[Bob Simpson]

CTS, PEC, CTS/MOJO, Alpha, Bourns, Alps?

I'm having trouble justifying spending $150 or so per amp for PEC's, but kind of doubt the quality of Alphas...

Fenders were always CTS, I thought, and lasted 40 years, but now CTS's are Chinese, and Fender amps are made for planned obsolescence.

Where is the "sweet spot" in cost/value?

TIA

Bob Simpson

[fp2000]

I've never had an issue with Alpha pots, the seem to work great and hold up long enough. So to me, the price/quality is very acceptable. Just my opinion.
Good luck
Frank

[M Fowler]

I have never heard from the ampgarage people what they think about my use of Bourns pots for all my builds. They are 2w priced under $2 and I have not had any issues with them. But wish they had a 5KL pot.

Mark

[ChrisM]

I have never heard from the ampgarage people what they think about my use of Bourns pots for all my builds. They are 2w priced under $2 and I have not had any issues with them. But wish they had a 5KL pot.

Mark

Where are you buying from?

I checked out Antique Elec Supply and all the Bourns pots are over $2 and 1/4W.

[Normster]

Lots of Dumble photos show Alpha pots so I don't think of them as inferior alternatives. For audio, I like the 15% taper of the Alpha pots, but they're nearly impossible to solder to. The CTS and Bournes pots are easy to solder to, but have a 10% taper. I've used PEC pots, but I'm not sure the cost is justified. They do look cool though.

[M Fowler]

I get my Bourns pots from http://www.apexjr.com/Bourns.htm

Mark

[ayan]

Lots of Dumble photos show Alpha pots so I don't think of them as inferior alternatives. For audio, I like the 15% taper of the Alpha pots, but they're nearly impossible to solder to. The CTS and Bournes pots are easy to solder to, but have a 10% taper. I've used PEC pots, but I'm not sure the cost is justified. They do look cool though.

Hey Norm,

WEll, on a production basis I can see where the Alpha finish could be annoying because it's not ready to solder to out of the factory. However, what I have done in every single amp I build is to scratch the spots I want to solder to using a small screw driver... A few strokes up and down, then side to side, and I can solder to them just fine.

The one thing they are unforgiving about is any spray you might be tempted to use to "clean them." It's been my experience that if you spray anything into them, you'll need to replace the damned thing!

Gil

[Normster]

I'll try that on my next build. I've tried wire brushing, but it didn't seem to help. Maybe more flux, eh?

Agree on the cleaning. It washes out the lube in the bushing and they just feel flimsy after that.

[Structo]

I just use 220 grit sand paper, rough up the back.

[heisthl]

Norm - scratch it and put a solder spot on the pot back before you install the pot in the amp, so gravity is your friend.

[glasman]

Alphas for me. Smooth feel, nice taper and consistant values (for the most part). Can be easily "tweaked" for special applications.

I have tried PEC, CTS and Bourns..

PEC - they don't feel right. and $8.00 / each wholesale !! CE sells these now as well.

CTS, 10% taper. Too slow for my taste.

Bourns. Bought some from CE, tested them and sent them back. 10% taper and they were rough feeling.

maybe it is me....

[glasman]

I keep a Dremel tool on my desk to break the finish on the back of Alphas to solder them. Works great.

[M Fowler]

Well now I know what people think of Bourns pots 10% and rough feeling.

I'll continue to use them.

Mark

[glasman]

Well now I know what people think of Bourns pots 10% and rough feeling.

I'll continue to use them.

Mark

At least the ones CE is selling. Haven't bought any from Steve.

I still prefer 15% taper. Guess it is what I am used to "feeling".