Hello everybody, now that my Express is ready and done I need to construct myself a cab and I was wondering what joint to use and if I have understood the construction details in the build guide correctly.
With the mitre joint, you just saw the top, bottom and sides a profile of 45 dergrees and glue them together? Is that not a bit weak construction? The chassis weighs around 7.8 Kg.
Fingerjoints are quite hard to do if you don't really have a lot of specialised tools like me especially if you'd like to make a hardwood cab. And of course a combined technique is out of the question but logically the strongest. (excuse my drawing skills )
Any suggestions from any of you who build their own cab?
Thanks.
Paul.
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First you round the boards over and then miter cut to final size. Put the corner boards to gether and mark for biscuit cut. Using the biscuit cutter, cut three slots for each miter corner. Dry fit and then glue and use corner clamps. The cheap ones from Harbor Freight work very well and as good as the expensive clamps from Lowes.
The simplest for me is butt joints with PL Premium Polyurethane adhesive . Lay a bead down the entire joint, clamp tightly and pop in some drywall screws to pull it even tighter. wipe off adhesive squeeze out. Once it drys thoroughly you may remove the screws, fill holes and finish with your choice. The wood will break before these joints let go. For added safety you can put some small pieces of wood with adhesive on the inside at the joints, but I have built speaker cabs with 1/2 inch ply for bass and subwoofers with only the butt joint method and have not had a failure with over two years of usage.
It's the easiest and sure way of getting something decent looking without braking the bank.
Currently I'm in the construction process of a head cab for my rocket build. I used Woodcraft materials. I know it's not the best, but it gets the job done.
I agree that the Wood Craft drawer plan for a cab is a great way to go and the plantation grown cherry stains very well.
If you like to build your own then the mitered corners with biscuit is the way to go for stained wood cabs. For cabs that are covered with tolex or bed liner then the butt joint is very acceptable. I build my PA cabs this way as the holes are filled and then I paint the cabs, but I am going to start using the bed liner or equivlent stuff from now on for some head cabs and all PA gear.
The head cab instruction shows 3/8 round over but if seems that varies depending on who is building it.
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