Solder Node Preference

[gearhead]

Just thought I'd throw this out there:

What type of solder point board insert do you prefer and why? Not counting flea clips because they've become unobtainium.

Most common I've seen (and used) are eyelets, tubular turrets, and forked turrets.

[Structo]

I like the eyelet boards myself.
Seems to be easier to mod the board than with turrets.
You can suck the solder out of the eyelet and then solder in a new component.
On a turret board you generally have the leads wrapped around or stuffed down the hole.

If it is an amp that you have built before and know for sure what components will go in it, then a turret board is fine.

[stubbyfex]

I like the forked posts, just because I can put a lot of parts and wires through the fork. It is a little tricky to use, because I do not wrap the wires around the fork at first. If I change something, I have to hold the wires and parts when I am changing things. I like to leave about 1/8" of the wires overhanging the fork while I am "tweaking", then when the design is what I want, I wrap the leads around the fork and re-solder everything. Here is a link to my favorite boards:

http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/item.a ... id=8126030

[Structo]

That board you linked to has the forked turrets?

It's hard to make out in the picture.
I see what you're saying and I like that logic.

Do you find a board like that can be used for just about anything?

[stubbyfex]

Hello! Yes, the board has forked turrets. Here is a link showing just the turret. I have found them at Mouser, but I didn't write down the part number, DOH!
I've used the boards for just about anything. Fender style boards, Marshall style boards and prototype ones too. By the way, Mojo will make custom boards with those turrets on them. I'm considering that for a Wreck build coming up.

http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/item.a ... id=7126010

[drhulsey]

... I didn't write down the part number...

Search Mouser's web site for "standardized terminal split." The are several styles of split turrets and different lengths of each style. Their catalog doesn't show all the split styles they have.

[jjman]

I don't like eyelets that allow the solder to flow into the twilight zone. Especially for something likely to be re-worked at some point. And those eyelet type boards are more likely to be capable of absorbing moisture.

[jaysg]

I prefer eyelet boards until I can't cram in that fourth wire. Fooey!

[FunkyE9th]

I use eyelets on turret boards. When I was trying to decide which way I should go, I read Kevin O'Connor's book. According to him, it is easier to work with eyelets. So I went with eyelets. I have never tried turrets.

[mlp-mx6]

If you are not changing the layout/topology of the circuit, but you are only changing component values, I prefer turrets where each component has 2 dedicated turrets. You are never heating up other components like you are with 4 components sharing one eyelet. 2 dedicated solder points for each component feels safe and secure for me.

If you are changing the circuit around, eyelets are probably better.

I've done both. Turrets are certainly more expensive, even more so with 2 per component.

[Zippy]

And those eyelet type boards are more likely to be capable of absorbing moisture.

Eyelets do not dictate the board material. Set your eyelets in G-10.

I prefer eyelet boards until I can't cram in that fourth wire.

When you see that your layout demands the fourth wire, set a larger eyelet.

[David Root]

Eyelets work fine, but a well laid out turret board LOOKS so much better! Well, I think so anyway.

[Structo]

I agree David they certainly have a much more polished look over eyelets.

While I like the convenience of eyelets for changing components, I think that eyelet boards look older fashioned.

[rmb550]

This is a real newbie question on this so please excuse it --- but I am wondering when you populate eyelet boards do the components actually rest on the board or are they only supported by the solder joint?
rmb

[Structo]

Most components sit right on the board.

Some guys like to elevate power resistors up off the board a little bit to help dissipate heat.