Thanks Steve,
Great advice from the designer himself! I will definitely do as you suggest and report back.
I’m a big fan of “test as you go” thanks to Martin M.
Really looking forward to hearing this circuit!
Sluckey Dual Lite British - New Build
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
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Raoul Duke
- Posts: 759
- Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2022 1:00 am
- Location: S.E. Mass.
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Raoul Duke
- Posts: 759
- Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2022 1:00 am
- Location: S.E. Mass.
1 others liked this
Re: Sluckey Dual Lite British - New Build
Mains and power supply test complete; here’s the numbers:
- Power switch works correctly
- Rectifier pins 4 &6: 308 vac
- Rectifier pins 2 &8: 5.1 vac
- Tube heaters: 6.3 vac all the way down the line with glowing filaments
- B+ at filter caps: 412 vdc
- Bleeder resistor works pretty quickly as well
Slowly came up with Variac through current limiter and watched all voltages increase safely. Final readings above are direct into Variac at 120vac with tubes installed.
I think it’s a success - but always eager for any knowledge the experts may derive from the above info.
- Power switch works correctly
- Rectifier pins 4 &6: 308 vac
- Rectifier pins 2 &8: 5.1 vac
- Tube heaters: 6.3 vac all the way down the line with glowing filaments
- B+ at filter caps: 412 vdc
- Bleeder resistor works pretty quickly as well
Slowly came up with Variac through current limiter and watched all voltages increase safely. Final readings above are direct into Variac at 120vac with tubes installed.
I think it’s a success - but always eager for any knowledge the experts may derive from the above info.
Marc
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Raoul Duke
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- Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2022 1:00 am
- Location: S.E. Mass.
Re: Sluckey Dual Lite British - New Build
Looking for opinions…
Spent the last couple hours researching the best way to route the OT wires and here’s my idea:
- Plate & CT wires separated, run from the “far” side of the OT
- Secondary taps run from the “near” side up and over to the impedance switch (got 1 1/8” clearance from the top of V5 pins to bottom of wire bundle) Tried the reverse of near and far as well and found that getting the secondary taps to the back panel was problematic due to the size of the wire bundle and confined space to get them where they need to go. My research finds that the primary side being longer isn’t necessarily an issue and that keeping them separated is the preferred method.
Looking for some advice on this.
Thanks all!
Spent the last couple hours researching the best way to route the OT wires and here’s my idea:
- Plate & CT wires separated, run from the “far” side of the OT
- Secondary taps run from the “near” side up and over to the impedance switch (got 1 1/8” clearance from the top of V5 pins to bottom of wire bundle) Tried the reverse of near and far as well and found that getting the secondary taps to the back panel was problematic due to the size of the wire bundle and confined space to get them where they need to go. My research finds that the primary side being longer isn’t necessarily an issue and that keeping them separated is the preferred method.
Looking for some advice on this.
Thanks all!
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Marc
Re: Sluckey Dual Lite British - New Build
I would curve the wires between the octal and noval sockets. Kinda like this but a neat curve...
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Raoul Duke
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Re: Sluckey Dual Lite British - New Build
Ahh, yes - thanks Steve!
Just did a quick approximation of that and after applying a little bit of heat to the bundle was able to lay it down and curve it as suggested. Probably stared at it for too long and needed a fresh set of experienced eyes, lol.
That’s where I’ll pick-up tomorrow for sure. Thanks again!
Just did a quick approximation of that and after applying a little bit of heat to the bundle was able to lay it down and curve it as suggested. Probably stared at it for too long and needed a fresh set of experienced eyes, lol.
That’s where I’ll pick-up tomorrow for sure. Thanks again!
Marc
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Raoul Duke
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Re: Sluckey Dual Lite British - New Build
Didn’t have a lot of time today, so I attached the OT primaries, made the shielded cables and worked out the speaker cab details. Thinking I’ll start with a WGS Green Beret and see how that sounds. It’s already broken in, so that’s one variable eliminated.
Hopefully have more time tomorrow.
Hopefully have more time tomorrow.
Marc
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Raoul Duke
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Re: Sluckey Dual Lite British - New Build
Had most of today - so I got pretty much everything all wired-up.
I think I’ll let it sit overnight and go through star-up tomorrow. Never built with EL84s before so it’ll give me the evening to read up on bias/dissipation and familiarize myself with the schematic and voltages on the whole vs in pieces as I tend to do when building.
Holler if you see any blatant errors; or point and laugh - just let me know one way or another, lol.
I think I’ll let it sit overnight and go through star-up tomorrow. Never built with EL84s before so it’ll give me the evening to read up on bias/dissipation and familiarize myself with the schematic and voltages on the whole vs in pieces as I tend to do when building.
Holler if you see any blatant errors; or point and laugh - just let me know one way or another, lol.
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Marc
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Raoul Duke
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Re: Sluckey Dual Lite British - New Build
Ok, went through the start-up process and had mixed results.
- Marshall position on switch controls the Vox volume and Brilliance
- Vox channel position controls Marshall volume and tone
- Cut works in both Marshall and Vox sides of the switch
- “Both” position - nothing works
- All voltages seem right except the EF86
What I get from this is there’s a switch wiring error which I think I’ve figured out after looking at the schematic again; but the V2 voltages are odd. I’ll re-check my routing and connections there again - but my preliminary troubleshooting shows everything in the right place.
This is where I tend to learn new things, lol… More to follow; here’s my voltages:
V1: pin1 - 152
pin2 - 0
pin3 - .9
V2: pin1 - 186
pin3 - 4.1
pin6 - 11.6
V3: pin1 - 196
pin6 - 196
pin8 - 63
V4: plate - 311
V5: plate - 312
Both cathodes - 10.6
Tube Heaters: 6.4vac
Rectifier heater: 5.2vac
Wall voltage: 121.7vac
- Marshall position on switch controls the Vox volume and Brilliance
- Vox channel position controls Marshall volume and tone
- Cut works in both Marshall and Vox sides of the switch
- “Both” position - nothing works
- All voltages seem right except the EF86
What I get from this is there’s a switch wiring error which I think I’ve figured out after looking at the schematic again; but the V2 voltages are odd. I’ll re-check my routing and connections there again - but my preliminary troubleshooting shows everything in the right place.
This is where I tend to learn new things, lol… More to follow; here’s my voltages:
V1: pin1 - 152
pin2 - 0
pin3 - .9
V2: pin1 - 186
pin3 - 4.1
pin6 - 11.6
V3: pin1 - 196
pin6 - 196
pin8 - 63
V4: plate - 311
V5: plate - 312
Both cathodes - 10.6
Tube Heaters: 6.4vac
Rectifier heater: 5.2vac
Wall voltage: 121.7vac
Marc
Re: Sluckey Dual Lite British - New Build
Raoul Duke wrote:Ok, went through the start-up process and had mixed results.
- Marshall position on switch controls the Vox volume and Brilliance... (rotate the switch body 180°)
- Vox channel position controls Marshall volume and tone... (rotate the switch body 180°)
- Cut works in both Marshall and Vox sides of the switch... (Yes, that's as it should be. Look at the schematic)
- “Both” position - nothing works... (Sounds like you used an ON-OFF-ON switch. You must use a C&K 7211 or equivalent ON-ON-ON switch.)
- All voltages seem right except the EF86... (I agree. examine the wiring for the EF86)
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Raoul Duke
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Re: Sluckey Dual Lite British - New Build
Removed the switch to triple check and confirmed it’s operating per the data sheet, and it is. This also showed me that I was reading the terminal numbers from the bottom vs the top - which explains the 180 degree issue. Easy enough to solve.
The next thing I think I screwed up is jumping the corners (1-6, 3-4). Based on reading the switch upside down, I have the input and ground reversed.
Does this make sense? These switches always get me; whether I step on them or toggle them…
On to the EF86. Despite the voltage disparity - it sounded fantastic! Could it be a tube issue? Tracing the wires now…
The next thing I think I screwed up is jumping the corners (1-6, 3-4). Based on reading the switch upside down, I have the input and ground reversed.
Does this make sense? These switches always get me; whether I step on them or toggle them…
On to the EF86. Despite the voltage disparity - it sounded fantastic! Could it be a tube issue? Tracing the wires now…
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Marc
Re: Sluckey Dual Lite British - New Build
Bingo! That would explain all your switching issues. Swap places with the input and ground wires.
It looks like you may have switched readings with V2 pins 1 and 6. Pin 6 should be much higher than pin 1.On to the EF86. Despite the voltage disparity - it sounded fantastic! Could it be a tube issue? Tracing the wires now…
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Raoul Duke
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- Location: S.E. Mass.
Re: Sluckey Dual Lite British - New Build
I thought about that Steve and was going to ask…
Then I discovered much to my chagrin that I have a 100k resistor going from the .1 to ground where the pin 1 lead goes to the board instead of the 1M. Might that be the cause? I’m not very good at the math part of this yet, but something tells me this is it.
Then I discovered much to my chagrin that I have a 100k resistor going from the .1 to ground where the pin 1 lead goes to the board instead of the 1M. Might that be the cause? I’m not very good at the math part of this yet, but something tells me this is it.
Marc
Re: Sluckey Dual Lite British - New Build
see pic...
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Raoul Duke
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Re: Sluckey Dual Lite British - New Build
Guilty as charged, lol.
I’ll have to dig and see if I have one on hand - but I will definitely fix that as soon as possible.
After my small preview - I’m even more looking forward to hearing this circuit roar!
In the meantime - I’ll get that switch wired correctly.
Rookie mistakes, but hey - I am still a rookie at this.
Thanks Steve! I appreciate the assistance from the designer himself!
I’ll have to dig and see if I have one on hand - but I will definitely fix that as soon as possible.
After my small preview - I’m even more looking forward to hearing this circuit roar!
In the meantime - I’ll get that switch wired correctly.
Rookie mistakes, but hey - I am still a rookie at this.
Thanks Steve! I appreciate the assistance from the designer himself!
Marc
Re: Sluckey Dual Lite British - New Build
You're almost there. Once you get a chance to play it some, I'd like to know which is your favorite channel. And I'm really curious to hear your opinion about the "BOTH" switch position. Do you think it's worthwhile?