Fender 600 champion reissue complete rebuild

[Stevem]

Get a open face type fuse holder and bolt it or silicone down where you have the room.

[Mikante]

I had other stuff to order so i decided to throw in some 5x20mm 4,0A slow-blo fuse and a couple of different holders.
I ll try to mount it with its accessible holder from below the chassis but it is getting crowded in there

[Mark]

Did you give thought to replacing the 12AX7 with a 6SJ7?

[Mikante]

Why would I?
I mean i never had any amp with that kind of tube and i don t know what the difference is, if it is any better or just different.
Would you replace it?

[Mark]

They were the original valve in these amps and are SUPPOSED to sound fatter.

[Mikante]

Hey, bulding the 600 reissue amp back to 5c1 spec was my first choice, it was until i found out that the reissue is not based on the original circuit, It is very different. I really like the reissue and in the end i decided to stick with it.
The 5c1 amp is interesting and i am so intrigued, if i ever manage to successfully build my first amp i d really like to try that one too.

[Mark]

Hey, bulding the 600 reissue amp back to 5c1 spec was my first choice, it was until i found out that the reissue is not based on the original circuit, It is very different. I really like the reissue and in the end i decided to stick with it.
The 5c1 amp is interesting and i am so intrigued, if i ever manage to successfully build my first amp i d really like to try that one too.

I wonder if there is room on the chassis to build it. I will see if I like the sound of the pentode before committing my amp to the 5C1 project.

I converted my reissue to a 5F1, it sounded better to my ear and it had more gain.

[Mikante]

Hello, here the layout, the choke will be mounted underneath and I put it there just to show the position.

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[Mikante]

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Here, time to solder, i m ready

[Mark]

Looks good. Keep the pictures coming.

[Mikante]

Thank you.
I am making progress.
I have wired the heaters and lamp, the rectifier turret is ready for the diodes.
I was able to use the old switch and connect it to the fuse and the power cord using the same pins.
The output transformer is wired too.

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As you can see I have ordered the wrong input sockets. Can use them anyway?
One more thing. The output input jack is pretty far from the OT, you can see the black an yellow wires. Would you relocate the output socket maybe next to the ot? There is plenty of space.
I thought I could then use the that hole to fit the second fuse holder.

[Mikante]

Ready for testing, it is all point to point, just 1 little wire to connect pin 7 of the v1 tube to the 10k resistor that goes to the middle of the volume pot. Too much distance to cover only with the components legs. Beside this, no wires were used. Every components is point to point connected

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What now? What do you test first?
I have double checked all the components and connections, it is everything like the schematic.
It is time to plug it in and i d like to know if there anything that you would test before to plug tubes and speaker.

[Mikante]

Cabinet is on the way too.

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[martin manning]

Ready for testing... What now? What do you test first? ...i d like to know if there anything that you would test before to plug tubes and speaker.

That depends on what equipment you have available. Do you have an incandescent bulb current limiter? At minimum, I would apply power with no tubes installed through a low-wattage bulb, and make some voltage measurements. If the voltages look reasonable, I would install the tubes, connect a load (speaker), and try it on the limiter again. If it still looks ok, with reasonable voltages throughout, you could increase the bulb wattage, or just go at full voltage.

Do you have an as-built schematic to post?

[Mikante]

What would that be?
Do you mean the layout of the components?
The schematic is exactly as original, i just bypassed the tone stack and added a choke.