JKRamsey1991 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 12, 2021 1:39 pm
The amp is still on the bass heavy side for me as I keep the bass pot turned almost off but its still a good sounding amp.
What does your bass pot measure? The original had 311K. Reducing the pot value will bring back the useable range of the pot.
There is a note on the #102 schematic that talks specifically about the Bass Pot:
I will tell you my experance from going down the rabbit hole of chasing the Robbin Ford tone is the bass pot needs to be 400k. I ended up using a resistor across a pot to get it to 400k. This is very important for PAB usage.
I parallel a resistor along with the Bass Pot to get that value down in the 300s. Early on, I tried to get a 300k pot but that was a fool's errand because of poor precision; none of the pots I bought were remotely close.
JKRamsey1991 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 12, 2021 1:39 pm
The amp is still on the bass heavy side for me as I keep the bass pot turned almost off but its still a good sounding amp.
What does your bass pot measure? The original had 311K. Reducing the pot value will bring back the useable range of the pot.
There is a note on the #102 schematic that talks specifically about the Bass Pot:
I will tell you my experance from going down the rabbit hole of chasing the Robbin Ford tone is the bass pot needs to be 400k. I ended up using a resistor across a pot to get it to 400k. This is very important for PAB usage.
I parallel a resistor along with the Bass Pot to get that value down in the 300s. Early on, I tried to get a 300k pot but that was a fool's errand because of poor precision; none of the pots I bought were remotely close.
I think he is going for a 183 which has 311K on the layout. On my 102 I went with a stock 500K but I'm in the process of redoing all the pots and have an Alpha at 396K
ijedouglas wrote: ↑Tue Jul 13, 2021 3:27 pm
I think he is going for a 183 which has 311K on the layout. On my 102 I went with a stock 500K but I'm in the process of redoing all the pots and have an Alpha at 396K
Ah, ok. Just thought I would mention it. The 102s I've built with that modded pot have all had plenty of bass but it is tight and never sloppy. Great score with the Alpha!
In Rock mode the the pot value makes little difference. It's wired as a variable resistor, so basically a lower value means you have a bit less bass range at the low frequency end when the bass control is fully CW.
ijedouglas wrote: ↑Tue Jul 13, 2021 3:27 pm
I think he is going for a 183 which has 311K on the layout. On my 102 I went with a stock 500K but I'm in the process of redoing all the pots and have an Alpha at 396K
Ah, ok. Just thought I would mention it. The 102s I've built with that modded pot have all had plenty of bass but it is tight and never sloppy. Great score with the Alpha!
Back when I first got my ceriatone, I thought the lows were a bit flubby. Ended up swapping the choke to a 100W Fender twin replacement, and that seemed to fix up the low frequency 'flub' I was experiencing.
It's true i've lost my marbles and i cant remember where i put them
Shanedawg wrote: ↑Sun Jul 18, 2021 6:10 am
Until I can get it worked on I’d like to brighten it up considerably. What should I do? I’m thinking about a different cap on the master.
I'm a little surprised it's not bright enough if it already has a cap on the master. (Personally, I always felt the master bypass cap added too much icepick even with a mere 47pF)
That, and the preamp 'bright' switch and treble control should be more than enough to get a bright tone.
What preamp tubes do you have in there? I've found going from JJ's to something like Tung Sol tends to add a bit of high frequency content. I think JJ's have a higher miller capacitance.
It's true i've lost my marbles and i cant remember where i put them
Shanedawg wrote: ↑Sun Jul 18, 2021 6:10 am
Until I can get it worked on I’d like to brighten it up considerably. What should I do? I’m thinking about a different cap on the master.
I'm a little surprised it's not bright enough if it already has a cap on the master. (Personally, I always felt the master bypass cap added too much icepick even with a mere 47pF)
That, and the preamp 'bright' switch and treble control should be more than enough to get a bright tone.
What preamp tubes do you have in there? I've found going from JJ's to something like Tung Sol tends to add a bit of high frequency content. I think JJ's have a higher miller capacitance.
I’m surprised. My friend has a ceriatone that is painfully bright even with a loop. Mine’s the opposite. I like the vht better stock.
Yes it has JJ’ s I put an rca 7025 in v1. I also have a pair of old GT GE 6l6’s and sovteks to try. The only new 12ax7’s I have are tungsol,JJ and EH.
I agree Shanedawg mine is on the dark side as well. I attribute it more to being bassy rather than lacking highs. I found I like the amp better with some of my brighter cabinets though.
Shanedawg wrote: ↑Tue Jul 20, 2021 9:36 pm
Yes, I’m very surprised mine is dark. It’s not icepicky at all. The night before last I had to max treble and presence.
I just worked out a deal to send it to Tony at volition amps for a major overhaul so I won’t have to mess with the bright cap myself.
kev02 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 12, 2024 11:23 pm
What output Transformer is everyone getting ? Part numbers would be great
I have been using the Fender Super Reverb OTs either from Heyboer or MM depending on the customer's budget. Can't recall the numbers, but easy enough to find.
"Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned" - Enzo
