ODS 124 PCB Build

[xtian]

comes with silicone tip instead of plastic so it lasts a ton longer.

I have one like that also, but it does NOT have the power of the big blue one.

[norburybrook]

you might get away with using braid to remove that solder. It will wick up and out of the holes.


Relays have been my bete Noir on many builds. usual suspect was polarised relays when non polarised should have been used.



M

[professormudd]

Also: have you wired the diode that's on the relay the right way? It looks like the anode is wired to the red wire and if red represents positive, the diode needs to be reversed. The diode over the relay coil needs to be in reverse: anode to ground and cathode to positive.

I wired the diode correctly, that much I do know. I chose red there to match a color scheme I was going for.

[professormudd]

you might get away with using braid to remove that solder. It will wick up and out of the holes.


Relays have been my bete Noir on many builds. usual suspect was polarised relays when non polarised should have been used.



M

In that case, I feel I am in pretty good company and I will count this error as a right of passage.

[professormudd]

Ended up with the one Phil suggested because it was the one I could get delivered fastest. Made short work of my task. Sure beats the squeezy bulb that never worked for me.

[professormudd]

I have searched quite a bit but I am not able to come up with a footswitch layout for this amp. My last build had the switches wired quite a bit differently. I would ultimately like a 2 button footswitch with LEDs. Do any of you fine people happen to have a layout handy?

[Richard1001]

You have 150mW relay's (if you bought the ones you posted) so you clould just put a led in series with the switch. This way the led will light up when you activate the relay and the relay coil acts as the dropping resistor for the led. You only need 3 wires to run to the footswitch to switch the two relay's and two led's.

[gtomax]

Here's the footswitch layout I found, I haven't built it so let me know how it goes.

[gtomax]

Ended up with the one Phil suggested because it was the one I could get delivered fastest. Made short work of my task. Sure beats the squeezy bulb that never worked for me.

Your solder looks interestingly dull - what solder is it? What temp are you using on your iron?

[professormudd]

Ended up with the one Phil suggested because it was the one I could get delivered fastest. Made short work of my task. Sure beats the squeezy bulb that never worked for me.

Your solder looks interestingly dull - what solder is it? What temp are you using on your iron?

Soldering iron is set to 480. The bulk of the solder is the stuff I got from Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Harris- ... /309077628

[norburybrook]

KESTER LEAD solder....changed my life



M

[professormudd]

That's what I have on hand for when this stuff runs out.

[gtomax]

Haha yeah breathing lead IS GUARANTEED to change your life. Please make sure you have good fume extraction.

If you're speaking about F temperature I'd recommend MUCH hotter temps for good joints. 650-700 easy. I use a Eutectic solder (Sn, Pb, Cu, Ag) and an iron at 680 F.

[xtian]

Haha yeah breathing lead IS GUARANTEED to change your life. Please make sure you have good fume extraction.

It's not good to breathe the rosin smoke that results from soldering, or any particulate, really. But there's no lead in the smoke.

"Its boiling point of 1749 °C (3180 °F)" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead

Am I wrong?

[martin manning]

Lead exposure isn't the primary issue, soldering temperatures are well below 450C/842F where significant lead fumes are produced. It's the flux fumes. See here for a quick explanation:https://diamondenv.wordpress.com/2011/0 ... soldering/