I purchased a couple of the all-in-one PCBs from user frusciante89 and am proceeding with building one out into a #124 with skyline mods. So far I have ordered the parts to populate the board while I wait for my AN chassis to be complete.
I have some questions about the layout. I emailed the guy I bought it from, but I think he might be busy. I am hoping someone here can help:
R30 has arrows labeled B4 and B5. Does this mean I run a jumper from there to the other points labeled B4 and B5 near R2/3 and R9/10?
Are the numbers in the grounding arrows specifying the grounding point to connect it to? If so, am I to assume the arrows to ground that are not labeled do not matter so much?
I appreciate any help. I will using this thread as a build log.
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-Matt
It may very well be that the sole purpose of your life is only to serve as a warning to others.
I see now that those are connecting to a B+ source, but I would still appreciate some guidance as to where these B+ sources would be physically. Are these to connect to tube pins?
-Matt
It may very well be that the sole purpose of your life is only to serve as a warning to others.
You just need to run jumpers between those points. Looks like there is a through hole in the board next to each one so you can run the jumpers underneath.
martin manning wrote: ↑Wed Nov 18, 2020 5:17 pm
You just need to run jumpers between those points. Looks like there is a through hole in the board next to each one so you can run the jumpers underneath.
Do you have any advise as to the best route for those jumpers, or does it matter?
-Matt
It may very well be that the sole purpose of your life is only to serve as a warning to others.
I think I would run them together, straight across to the rear edge of the board, and then make a right angle turn. They are carrying DC with very little ripple, so it may not make much difference.
martin manning wrote: ↑Wed Nov 18, 2020 5:39 pm
I think I would run them together, straight across to the rear edge of the board, and then make a right angle turn. They are carrying DC with very little ripple, so it may not make much difference.
Thank you
-Matt
It may very well be that the sole purpose of your life is only to serve as a warning to others.
I got a few parts in the mail and started filling in the board. I opted to go with metal film resistors instead of the carbon film because I already had a supply of 1 watt metal film resistors. I also learned something, when cleaning off flux with acetone you can wipe the markings off your components. Whoops.
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-Matt
It may very well be that the sole purpose of your life is only to serve as a warning to others.
Make sure to note there was a SERIOUS error I brought to his attention in the original layout. It had a jumper from B+ to ground which is clearly a deadly idea. The layout you posted here doesn't have it but for any others looking to build take note. There was an email sent out to all buyers but maybe not all read it so I'm posting again about it here.
I built the 124 with the board and it turned out fine after some corrections.
Three other things to note:
1. If you want the half power switch wired/marked per original with 100w in the up position and 50w in the down position then the layout has the switch wired backwards and you'll want to swap the top and bottom connections.
2. The B4 connection is marked in the layout differently than on the board. The board doesn't have a distinct connection point for that jumper you need to put it in the same through-hole as one of the plate resistors. B5 does have a distinct connection point.
3. The ground marked "C" coming off the tantalum cap in the PI section gets connected to preamp ground. I ran a jumper to the ground between the 10uf bypass caps since it was nearby. That also wasn't clear.
The grounds are marked with ground points, yes. You can see the lugs in the layout are labeled GND 5, GND 4 etc. just run them to those points. Any other letters coming off the black arrows go to their corresponding connection points elsewhere on the layout with the same letter.
Good luck with the build, mine is quiet at idle and sounds great.
That's what I use, but I got a gallon can. It also cleans up grease and oil. Great for cleaning lawn mowers, electric motors, etc., and anything else that uses oil and grease. Even hands!
I wash my boards with mineral spirits and various small brushes. Cheap acid brushes work well. The mineral spirits dissolve the rosin flux making it easy to brush off. Then I wash the board again using denatured alcohol. This second wash will remove any residue that may be left behind from the first wash. This procedure is gently and will not damage your components
gtomax wrote: ↑Thu Nov 19, 2020 3:12 pm
Make sure to note there was a SERIOUS error I brought to his attention in the original layout. It had a jumper from B+ to ground which is clearly a deadly idea. The layout you posted here doesn't have it but for any others looking to build take note. There was an email sent out to all buyers but maybe not all read it so I'm posting again about it here.
I built the 124 with the board and it turned out fine after some corrections.
Three other things to note:
1. If you want the half power switch wired/marked per original with 100w in the up position and 50w in the down position then the layout has the switch wired backwards and you'll want to swap the top and bottom connections.
2. The B4 connection is marked in the layout differently than on the board. The board doesn't have a distinct connection point for that jumper you need to put it in the same through-hole as one of the plate resistors. B5 does have a distinct connection point.
3. The ground marked "C" coming off the tantalum cap in the PI section gets connected to preamp ground. I ran a jumper to the ground between the 10uf bypass caps since it was nearby. That also wasn't clear.
The grounds are marked with ground points, yes. You can see the lugs in the layout are labeled GND 5, GND 4 etc. just run them to those points. Any other letters coming off the black arrows go to their corresponding connection points elsewhere on the layout with the same letter.
Good luck with the build, mine is quiet at idle and sounds great.
I appreciate your response. I noticed the lack of a dedicated point for that B4 connection. I definitely appreciate that there are only a couple of points which a wire must share the same space as a component lead. Perhaps if he does a revision he will add those in.
Also, I did get confused because he provided the 124 layout with both grounding schemes. The layout labeled original grounding had that jumper you mentioned. I got confused working with the digital files so on my local machine I just deleted the bad one.
Looking forward to getting this up, but it will be a slow build.
-Matt
It may very well be that the sole purpose of your life is only to serve as a warning to others.
professormudd wrote: ↑Thu Nov 19, 2020 3:58 pm
I had a hard time finding the 300uf 350v caps. These were the closest I could find. Which (if any) are my best option?
