Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
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- norburybrook
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Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
I'm trying to use up things I have around and have decided on this build.
Now, I have a Metro buffered FX loop that's sat idle. Could I fit this to this amp? due to the unusual pre amp I'm not sure where the send and returns to the loop would be and if it would be suitable.
M
Now, I have a Metro buffered FX loop that's sat idle. Could I fit this to this amp? due to the unusual pre amp I'm not sure where the send and returns to the loop would be and if it would be suitable.
M
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Re: Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
As is, a loop would have to be inserted into only one channel’s signal path, can’t serve both. If you want a shared loop, it would be a minor change to mix the channels with a couple of resistors and use their node to feed the loop. Connect the unused ltp input to 0V.
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- norburybrook
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Re: Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
of course, yes that makes sense now looking at it.pdf64 wrote: ↑Sun Jun 21, 2020 1:01 pm As is, a loop would have to be inserted into only one channel’s signal path, can’t serve both. If you want a shared loop, it would be a minor change to mix the channels with a couple of resistors and use their node to feed the loop. Connect the unused ltp input to 0V.
OK I'll leave as is then for the sake of simplicity and squeezing things into a tight space with my chassis.
I'm quite intrigued to hear how this turns out. Just getting the bit's I need together at the moment. Going to use an AC 30 transformer as that's 180-0-180 so pretty close to this. Just wondering if it's worth doing the SS/tube recto or just doing the SS. Anyone have any experience with both? or thought's on the matter?
M
- martin manning
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Re: Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
The schematic shows 24V Vk through 270Ω cathode resistor, which is is 89 mA. At 379V Va that's 31.6W per output tube. You could knock 10% off for screen current, but it's still 28.4W for a nominal 25W Pa max tube. Hot Cat indeed!
Don't you mean 280-0-280? That will make something like 380V with a two phase SS rectifier.
Anybody know what the OT primary impedance is? 4k like an AC 30 would be more like 50W; 8k would be more like 30, and closer to Class A PP.
Don't you mean 280-0-280? That will make something like 380V with a two phase SS rectifier.
Anybody know what the OT primary impedance is? 4k like an AC 30 would be more like 50W; 8k would be more like 30, and closer to Class A PP.
Last edited by martin manning on Sun Jul 12, 2020 11:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
IF you attempt this maybe 220k mixing resistors (& if not sufficient, up to 470k)If you want a shared loop, it would be a minor change to mix the channels with a couple of resistors and use their node to feed the loop.
With respect, 10thtx
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- norburybrook
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Re: Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
Sorry yes 280-0-280 and I'm going to use 360R resistors for the EL34's so they're not running as hot!!!! I've got a 50w Marshall OT sat unused here so thought I'd use that.I'm not 100% sure what the primary is, I think I did measure it at one point. I think it's a Dagnal 50w plexi transformer.martin manning wrote: ↑Sun Jun 21, 2020 3:31 pm The schematic shows 24V Vk through 270Ω cathode resistor, which is is 89 mA. At 379V Va that's 33.7W per output tube. You could knock 10% off for screen current, but it's still 30W for a nominal 25W Pa max tube. Hot Cat indeed!
Don't you mean 280-0-280? That will make something like 380V with a two phase SS rectifier.
Anybody know what the OT primary impedance is? 4k like an AC 30 would be more like 50W; 8k would be more like 30, and closer to Class A PP.
I know these amps historically are HOT and eat output tubes hence people fitting larger cathode resistors to help. I think the original Matchless had even lower values!!
M
- norburybrook
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Re: Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
thanks Jeff. I'm going to stick a line out on it and use wet/dry or have reverb /delay in front with pedals. Not sure how this amp sounds but I thought it might be different enough to warrant a build. I realise I have the Fender/Marshall thing more or less covered so decided something 'different' was the only way I could warrant a new build at the moment with little or no work for months.
M
- martin manning
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Re: Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
Probably 3k7 or something like that. That'll handle the power, and and place the load line pretty much like a JMP. I'd like to know what the Bad Cat OT spec is. To be PP Class A it would have to be up near 8k, but then the screen voltage seems much too high.norburybrook wrote: ↑Sun Jun 21, 2020 5:15 pmI've got a 50w Marshall OT sat unused here so thought I'd use that.I'm not 100% sure what the primary is, I think I did measure it at one point. I think it's a Dagnal 50w plexi transformer.
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turbofeedus
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Re: Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
I spoke to Bill at TDS (they make the transformers for Matchless and Bad Cat), he said for their 30W transformer set, the OT primary impedance is 4Kmartin manning wrote: ↑Sun Jun 21, 2020 7:16 pmProbably 3k7 or something like that. That'll handle the power, and and place the load line pretty much like a JMP. I'd like to know what the Bad Cat OT spec is. To be PP Class A it would have to be up near 8k, but then the screen voltage seems much too high.norburybrook wrote: ↑Sun Jun 21, 2020 5:15 pmI've got a 50w Marshall OT sat unused here so thought I'd use that.I'm not 100% sure what the primary is, I think I did measure it at one point. I think it's a Dagnal 50w plexi transformer.
Here's the datasheet he sent me:
EDIT: I can also confirm that running the output tubes hot seems to be intentional, I have a hot cat 100 (4x EL34), and they're biased at ~120% max dissipation.
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Last edited by turbofeedus on Mon Jun 22, 2020 5:30 pm, edited 2 times in total.
- martin manning
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Re: Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
Great stuff, thanks! Must be 30W clean, and that won't be nearly all Class A, more like a typical cathode biased AB1.
Marcus, your Plexi OT should be fine, but I'd definitely lower the idle to 60-65 mA plate current, 65-70 mA cathode current at 375V, going for a maximum of 90-95% plate dissipation.
Marcus, your Plexi OT should be fine, but I'd definitely lower the idle to 60-65 mA plate current, 65-70 mA cathode current at 375V, going for a maximum of 90-95% plate dissipation.
- norburybrook
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Re: Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
will the 360R 10W resistors take care of that?martin manning wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 1:11 pm Great stuff, thanks! Must be 30W clean, and that won't be nearly all Class A, more like a typical cathode biased AB1.
Marcus, your Plexi OT should be fine, but I'd definitely lower the idle to 60-65 mA plate current, 65-70 mA cathode current at 375V, going for a maximum of 90-95% plate dissipation.
while we're on this subject, how can you have a bias of 120% and not have valves red plating? I'm sure Ohms law will be in here somewhere in this answer
M
- martin manning
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Re: Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
There may be some tweaking required, but yes, a larger cathode resistor will turn the wick down. And yes, you're right, higher resistance means more voltage drop per milliamp, so more negative bias Vg-k, and a lower current at the idle equilibrium.norburybrook wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 2:28 pm...will the 360R 10W resistors take care of that?
while we're on this subject, how can you have a bias of 120% and not have valves red plating? I'm sure Ohms law will be in here somewhere in this answer
:mrgreen:
I really don't know how the voltages on the schematic could be tolerated, unless the tubes are actually rated very conservatively.
- pompeiisneaks
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Re: Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
If the amp is setup with cathode bias and operating in Class A, it can take up to 59.8mA per tube, and with two EL34's that would be nearly 120mA at 90% diss, so that's considered safe for class A no? I'm not sure how to determine if it IS in class A, that's still always been confusing for me 
~Phil
~Phil
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- norburybrook
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Re: Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
you and me both Philpompeiisneaks wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 4:25 pm If the amp is setup with cathode bias and operating in Class A, it can take up to 59.8mA per tube, and with two EL34's that would be nearly 120mA at 90% diss, so that's considered safe for class A no? I'm not sure how to determine if it IS in class A, that's still always been confusing for me
~Phil
M
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turbofeedus
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Re: Matchless/Bad cat new build questions
In my hot cat, they don't red plate, at least it isn't visible to me. But replacing the cathode resistors is on my short list, along with the filter caps.norburybrook wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 2:28 pmwill the 360R 10W resistors take care of that?martin manning wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 1:11 pm Great stuff, thanks! Must be 30W clean, and that won't be nearly all Class A, more like a typical cathode biased AB1.
Marcus, your Plexi OT should be fine, but I'd definitely lower the idle to 60-65 mA plate current, 65-70 mA cathode current at 375V, going for a maximum of 90-95% plate dissipation.
while we're on this subject, how can you have a bias of 120% and not have valves red plating? I'm sure Ohms law will be in here somewhere in this answer
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M
Here's a gut shot:
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