What are you doing for boards?

[BBQLS1]

What do y'all do for turret boards?

I'm need some boards for my express build. I haven't seen a board layout or drawing (Am I just blind?).

What material are you using and where did you get it?

Anyone selling a good board set?

[muchxs]

http://www.turretboards.com/

Under "circuit boards, other types" bottom of the column:

FRANCESCA SET
Comes standard with double turrets.
...$42.50 set
Includes both boards

[Lonely Raven]

That would probably be the easiest.

I used to make boards myself. Bought the G-10 stock in big sheets from McMaster Carr, then bought a turret kit from Hoffman. I helped fund a few guitar purchases making boards for others.

Looks like Turretboards.com is picking up where I left off. Probably cheaper in the long run too! LOL

[UR12]

What do y'all do for turret boards?

I'm need some boards for my express build. I haven't seen a board layout or drawing (Am I just blind?).

What material are you using and where did you get it?

Anyone selling a good board set?

Shoot me a PM. I hand make the perfboard and sell TW perfboard sets.

[BBQLS1]

I've made some and I've bought some. I guess some of it will depend on how lazy I decide to be!

Is there a layout for the boards?

[mlp-mx6]

Look in the "Trainwreck Files" section.

Not much that I've seen for the power board - but good layouts for the preamp board.

[BBQLS1]

What do y'all do for turret boards?

I'm need some boards for my express build. I haven't seen a board layout or drawing (Am I just blind?).

What material are you using and where did you get it?

Anyone selling a good board set?

Shoot me a PM. I hand make the perfboard and sell TW perfboard sets.

Sent!

[BBQLS1]

Look in the "Trainwreck Files" section.

Not much that I've seen for the power board - but good layouts for the preamp board.

I saw the one preamp board, but not the power board.

[Fischerman]

G10 from McMaster-Carr, eyelets from Mouser, eyelet staking kit from Mouser, a ruler, a Dremel with heavy duty cutting wheels, sandpaper, a pencil, a Sharpie, a hand drill, and a hammer. And some rubbing alcohol to clean off the Sharpie ink.

I measure and mark (pencil) the G10, cut it with the Dremel, sand it. Then mark it for the eyelets using pencil and once finalized with Sharpie. Drill it, clean off any Sharpie ink, put in the eyelets and stake them using only the one staking tool and a hammer (all that other BS in the staking kit is a waste of time IMO...I just use the one 'male' piece of the kit and a hammer and they come out great...and it's very quick).

I like eyelets better than turrets...personal preference I guess.

Wear at least dust mask when you cut/drill this G10 and never do it indoors.

There are plenty of pics in the Files area. Or if you just want a 1 page layout of the whole amp you can go to the Ceriatone site and download his layout.

[mlp-mx6]

I cut my G10 with a jigsaw. I cover it with masking tape and mark the lines (using a Sharpie) on the tape. The tape also protects the surface of the G10 from scratches/marks caused by the jigsaw. (gotta have PRETTY boards!) I also clean up the edges with sanding - usually using my random orbital sander.

I do my layouts in TurboCAD LE - free DXF-generating software.

I print the layout on full-sheet label paper and stick it to the G10 board.

I then drill out the holes marked on the label paper. I go back and forth between turrets and eyelets. For an amp that will be tweaked a lot in the build process, I find turrets much easier. What I mean is I find it easier to remove/replace components and keep the look clean with turrets. With eyelets I never recapture the "first board stuffing" look if I remove/replace components even once.

Removing the label can be a bit of a pain if I leave it on too long, but a little solvent cleaning dissolves any residue. If you have some of the "red swirl" GPO board, the labels do not stick as well (well enough, though) so there is usually far less residue to clean up with GPO.

[BBQLS1]

I draw mine in Auto Cad, print to scale, lay over the board for my drilling template, then I use my drill press to drill and press in the turrets.

I use a hack saw to cut the board (it's a bit of a pain).

I just didn't know what the dimensions are for the turret locations.

I ended up buying this one though.

[Fischerman]

With eyelets you never recapture the "first board stuffing" look if you remove/replace components even once.

I find it just the opposite. I can always remove the component and suck out the solder then replace the component and it looks exactly like the original build...exactly...and I can do that multiple times. That's usually not the case for turrets with me. All my amps usually get tweeked so that's why I use eyelets. If I knew I wasn't going to mod it I might use turrets.

[mlp-mx6]

Different strokes!

I guess the difference for me is that I only allow 1 component per turret pair, whereas I often combine components on 2 eyelets. (eyelets taking up much more board space than turrets) I pre-stuff the board before I load it in the amp, and I bend the leads underneath the board before I cut them off. This makes for a very strong mechanical connection - which is then a PITA to remove if the need arises. I do the same, whether eyelets or turrets - but with one component per pair of turrets it comes out "cleaner" for me.

(this is explained, not to disagree with you, but to spell out my reasons for my preference - I'm glad your method works so well for you)

[Structo]

Do you guys find that an eyelet requires less heat (heats quicker) when soldering than a turret?

[mlp-mx6]

I don't find a significant difference either way. So long as the tip of the iron is clean and wet with solder the connection is made in a split second.