New Rocket build

[guitarmike2107]

you wont easily get a switch rated to those voltages so generally use one that has a higher current rating/bigger contact gap, so a DPDT toggle switch with a 10 - 15A current rating would be typical, same sort of switch you would use on the power switch. don't use a mini toggle switch!

Its is a sad day when you can only get 1/4w resistors, When I lived in CT I had a guy down the road that could supply all those parts, though I suspect he is long retired now.

I supply a number of parts to a pro guitarist in SA, fortunately for him he has friends who travel to the UK allot so I send stuff to their hotels.

going to go stock up on plastic snakes now....

[andresound]

Thanks Mike .

Sad days indeed. The last of a dying breed of specialist suppliers, is Mr. Valve. Unfortunately, they sent out an email a few weeks back announcing the company closure.

Will order the switch.

[M Fowler]

When I built my Zwreck clone (see photo of my clone) I used a Carling switch. It is just a heavy duty DPDT switch.

[andresound]

I will definitely implement this Mod. Thanks guys

[RJ Guitars]

I am late to the party but looks like there is still fun left... I am subscribed and will follow up after a review of the technical content.

[andresound]

Can't you use both and fit a switch? I think that's what the Z-wreck and the Komet amps do. They're labelled 'comfort and speed'



Marcus

Re this mod of both 280v and 250v option. Great idea Marcus! Collected the switch (fitted in place of a standby switch), and wired it today. The Red is the 250 secondary, the orange (underneath the brown) is the 280 seconday, and the brown is out to the rectifier.

Any negative in foregoing the standby switch?

[martin manning]

Any negative in foregoing the standby switch?

No, but I would avoid switching the voltage from low to high with the rectifier hot. Turn the main power off, and wait 30 seconds or so before switching the voltage and turning it back on. Going from high to low could probably be done on the fly.

[andresound]

Noted, thanks for prompt reply Martin. Will get started with the heater wiring etc.

[andresound]

Heaters done!

[andresound]

Had to do the cap stack at "an angle" Otherwise the caps on top of each other, would have been higher than the base plate. Strange!!

Anyway, nearly there.

Couldn't use the earth buss attachments.(almost like a washer with a "leg"). Will post a pic. Firstly, they do not work with the PEC pots. The pots are thicker than average. Secondly, if I did use them, I would not have enough clearance on the pot thread for a wooden face plate. Hope this makes sense!
I will have to solder copper earth buss to the back of the pots. Not my best choice.

I would like to separate the power supply node earths.

1. Power tubes and PI (3 bottom caps) at one spot (near PS caps?)
2. Preamp B+3, 4 and 5 (top 3 caps) at one spot (where?). Maybe at input jack?
3. CT's and PT Earth at one spot (as per pic)

Any input welcome.

[martin manning]

You might have a difficult time soldering to PEC pot shells. I would lose the ground buss and use hookup wire to daisy chain the ground connections to a ground lug near the input. To separate the rest of the grounds I would do something like the mark-up below.

[M Fowler]

I agree with Martin. Don't need a standby switch and soldering to a PEC pot will not work without a lot of prep work. I would do as Martin said and daisy chain the grounds.

Mark

[andresound]

Thanks Guys,
Agreed. Will get to it this week

[andresound]

Wiring done!! Next is the smoke test Any obvious mistakes, please feel free to chime in. Besides the connection of the 50 ohm bias resistor. Duh!!!

I swear, this is like giving birth. I always shit myself, when it is time to fire her up. This is only my 3rd build, so not confident yet. Will use a light bulb limiter.

Apologies for bad lighting

[M Fowler]

Nice looking amp.