Liverpool build. HELP PLEASE.
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Re: Liverpool build. HELP PLEASE.
Well voltage readings were.... um mostly non-existent.
All the heaters were 3.4v instead of 6.3 which includes checking the taps right off the transformer. The only other readings I got were coming off the diodes running out to Caps C2, C3 & C4 which have 240vdc running in and 0 coming out. All other readings on the tube sockets or boards in 0.
Dropped my phone in water last night so I cant get more photos at the moment. Hoping to get a new phone shortly so i can get more photos.
All the heaters were 3.4v instead of 6.3 which includes checking the taps right off the transformer. The only other readings I got were coming off the diodes running out to Caps C2, C3 & C4 which have 240vdc running in and 0 coming out. All other readings on the tube sockets or boards in 0.
Dropped my phone in water last night so I cant get more photos at the moment. Hoping to get a new phone shortly so i can get more photos.
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vibratoking
- Posts: 2640
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- Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Re: Liverpool build. HELP PLEASE.
3.4VAC, correct? Is that measured to ground or between the heater leads? If to ground and VAC, then the heater voltage should be ok.xjuddx wrote:Well voltage readings were.... um mostly non-existent.
All the heaters were 3.4v instead of 6.3 which includes checking the taps right off the transformer. The only other readings I got were coming off the diodes running out to Caps C2, C3 & C4 which have 240vdc running in and 0 coming out. All other readings on the tube sockets or boards in 0.
Dropped my phone in water last night so I cant get more photos at the moment. Hoping to get a new phone shortly so i can get more photos.
Sounds like your diodes are open. Have you checked them?
Electronic equipment is designed using facts and mathematics, not opinion and dogma.
Re: Liverpool build. HELP PLEASE.
I think you've missed at least one B+ wire under the board.
Re: Liverpool build. HELP PLEASE.
The heaters are measured to ground.vibratoking wrote:3.4VAC, correct? Is that measured to ground or between the heater leads? If to ground and VAC, then the heater voltage should be ok.xjuddx wrote:Well voltage readings were.... um mostly non-existent.
All the heaters were 3.4v instead of 6.3 which includes checking the taps right off the transformer. The only other readings I got were coming off the diodes running out to Caps C2, C3 & C4 which have 240vdc running in and 0 coming out. All other readings on the tube sockets or boards in 0.
Dropped my phone in water last night so I cant get more photos at the moment. Hoping to get a new phone shortly so i can get more photos.
Sounds like your diodes are open. Have you checked them?
The diodes are good. I just checked them but I was getting DC after them so that should indicate they are working.
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vibratoking
- Posts: 2640
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 9:55 pm
- Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Re: Liverpool build. HELP PLEASE.
Heaters sound correct.xjuddx wrote:The heaters are measured to ground.vibratoking wrote:3.4VAC, correct? Is that measured to ground or between the heater leads? If to ground and VAC, then the heater voltage should be ok.xjuddx wrote:Well voltage readings were.... um mostly non-existent.
All the heaters were 3.4v instead of 6.3 which includes checking the taps right off the transformer. The only other readings I got were coming off the diodes running out to Caps C2, C3 & C4 which have 240vdc running in and 0 coming out. All other readings on the tube sockets or boards in 0.
Dropped my phone in water last night so I cant get more photos at the moment. Hoping to get a new phone shortly so i can get more photos.
Sounds like your diodes are open. Have you checked them?
The diodes are good. I just checked them but I was getting DC after them so that should indicate they are working.
You should really specify whether you are measuring AC or DC voltage. You should be getting DC after the diodes. It's a rectifier. So what is the DC voltage after the diodes? Was your meter set to AC or DC for those measurements? You should be making DC measurements after the rectifier.
Electronic equipment is designed using facts and mathematics, not opinion and dogma.
Re: Liverpool build. HELP PLEASE.
Problem solved. Had the wires going to C19 and the standby switch backwards. Have a ground hum now so going to go through and redo all my ground connections.
Thanks for all the help
Thanks for all the help
Re: Liverpool build. HELP PLEASE.
At the risk of seeming like a scold, it was a really bad idea to build and attempt to operate this amp without a DMM, and presumably without going through a typical new amp sequence of pre-run checks. You could easily have caused damage that would have cost a lot more to fix than a new meter would have, even an expensive one. You also put your own health and safety at risk.xjuddx wrote:
I havent checked voltages yet. I took my meter out when I started the project and it seems to have gone missing so I am picking up a new one tomorrow.
Re: Liverpool build. HELP PLEASE.
With my builds the best way to clean up a Trainwreck ground problem or hum is to isolate the input jack, ground the input jack and V1 & V2 circuit at the same chassis point near the input jack.
PI and remaining filter sections ground near PT.
IEC or 3-prong wire need a separate ground near the AC mains entrance.
Mark
PI and remaining filter sections ground near PT.
IEC or 3-prong wire need a separate ground near the AC mains entrance.
Mark
Re: Liverpool build. HELP PLEASE.
I was going to say what Mark said, because I learned that from you guys here. I learned so much from you guys! 
Re: Liverpool build. HELP PLEASE.
Lift the ground connection from the middle pot. This will make the amp go haywire. Dress everything, move the grounds, etc. to get the most stable sound. Then reconnect the mid ground. Like butter.
- RJ Guitars
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Re: Liverpool build. HELP PLEASE.
Glad you are making progress, I hadn't seen this but you did some quality help. keep posting as you go, we'll probably all learn something along the way.
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