Check out these pretty bends

[stretch2011]

I was doing some work at the laser company yesterday and got done early so I did some experimenting with .120" thick aluminum. This is a jmp style blank and a dumble style chassis. The dumble wasn't an updated file so there are some things like switch holes that need to be changed. also nothing has been tig welded yet, but honestly its not going to move.

Anyways, pretty bends!

[Colossal]

Very nice! Are you working with a new company? What kind of finish work do they offer? I thought you had some mishaps with the last shop that left you with a $1,200 mistake (glad that worked out though).

[xtian]

That's awesome.

I'm dabbling in the art, too, but totally new to me. I bought Harbor Freight's cheap ($40) 30" brake and some 0.063" and 0.090" 5052 scraps to play with. I can't do anything other than bend a three-sided box with 2" sides.

But, there is a great shop 30 minutes away, that has monster lasers and sheet metal brakes. One-off chassis based on my design for less than $80, and price drops to under $40 each for a full 5' x 10' sheet, making about 18 chassis. Really great, except for the travel.

Anyway, I'm new to designing for the bends. How to do you calculate the radius based on your stock thickness? How do you compensate to achieve correct outside dimensions? Does the software do that for you? They use SolidWorks, but I don't have the money for that. Cheap alternatives?

[dkochan]

Very cool! Are you thinking about having a run done? I am plotting a d-style build and thought I was going to have to Bassman it.

Thanks,
Dave

[stretch2011]

Colossal- it wasn't the shops fault but metal suppliers sold me the wrong metal. The shop actually compensated all Tue bends so the wrong thickness came out to the right sizes.
The .120 was some scrap they had laying around.

Xtian, that's awesome sounds like we know similar people. They have a 4000watt $600,000+ laser and a 90 ton 48" press brake. I believe they are altima or omega brands or something like that.

Were I'm a plastics student I have access to Autodesk inventor which has sheet metal software in it. I call the company and see what the bend deduction for x thickness is for their brake and I manually put that in for anything 90 degrees.


Something awesome, I can download the software and keep it for 3 years for free. College has its perks.

[stretch2011]

Dave,

I'll have some hopefully by the beginning of December. I have to make some modifications to the files.

The two major versions I've seen is one is 19.5x8x2.38 and the other is 19x8x2.5
I don't want to make a size that doesn't fit anyone's cabinets.

[tubeswell]

Solid-as

[stretch2011]

I also had them laser out some 3/4" birch back. Needless to say cabinetry making just got a hell of a lot easier. This is a dumble head cab and an extension cab for a buddy of mine.


Tubeswell- Thanks, honestly I don't need to tig weld these, you cant bend them apart, but I will anyways.

[dkochan]

That sounds great, thank you!

And that cab... Whoa!

[stretch2011]

Thanks buddy! Yea the laser burning the cuts gives it a great look, I want to try to do it with a hardwood.

[telentubes]

Nice looking work!! Metal and wood.

[The Ballzz]

Huh,
Doesn't the "charring" of the wood compromise the glue joint a little bit? Or am I just over thinking this?

On the other hand, it certainly must improve accuracy and time savings over the "old fashioned" box joint jig method! How do suppose "water jet" cutting would work out for this purpose?

Just Curious,
Gene

[dkochan]

Yeah, that kind of cabinet-making is right about my speed. Wood hates me. This option is fantastic.

There are different types of lasers and I believe some are better than others as far as cutting wood?

That said, all the strength will be in the mechanical construction of the joints. Laser cutting makes the bond lose shear strength, which is pretty much irrelevant with these finger joints. The glue will barely be working. If you put it together with something like WeldBond or maybe even epoxy, the thing will outlast the cockroaches.

[Structo]

That is a real bullet proof chassis!

.120"?

Make sure pots, switches other things will work with that thickness.

[stretch2011]

The charring is very VERY minimal due to the high speed of the laser. Its more like spraying spray paint too over it fast. Its there but not deep. I use extra strength tight bond and it holds together quite well, but I always put in a few screws just incase after I route the sides.

NOTE: I always pre drill the wood, and use a hand screw driver not a power drill to tighten the screws. This makes sure that the screw is snug and does not break the glue. This allows me to get a good even round over, and a strong joint. .....that will burn for days, joking!

Also, even though the laser is smooth it reveals very small crevasses in the wood for the glue to grip into. But I will agree some contact cement would turn it industrucable.

Tom- Thanks and I know! .120 isn't my first choice but it was free!


I'm moving the cabinetry over to the other forum.