Input jacks for thick faceplates

[Tone Lover]

Working on a rocket type build. I have wood faceplate. I have the long necked switch craft plugs but does anyone use a non grounding jacks.
Is there a long necked neutric or cliff type jack. it needs to be .375 or better in neck length.
Thanks Bill

[Stevem]

Not that I know of!
If you have not drilled the hole yet you can get a 1 inch wood paddle type drill and counter sink it from the back to get the needed depth .
I have seen amps where the jacks where mounted on a seperate 1/4 verner of wood of a different type then the face plate and that looks great and solves the thickness issue too!

[ampmike]

I may be off here in understanding ,Is you faceplate too thick.I could put it through my table sander for you and make it as thin as u like.Let me know.
Mikey

[Smokebreak]

I use 1/16" wood plates and .09" chassis and the cliff work/fit. I generally discard one of those felt washers

[davent]

if you could get by without a switching input jack there's the Switchcraft 151.

[img1000]http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/images/a ... _image.jpg[/img]
http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Swit ... vz3g%3D%3D

[Phil_S]

These should be the right size.
http://www.amazon.com/3-pack-Neutrik-Lo ... B0076CGVF8
I'm reasonably sure they can be bought for much less elsewhere. If you want to insulate them from the chassis, there is a nylon bushing with a lip that will fit around it. I think this is called a flanged bushing. I get them by the piece at the local True Value hardware store.

[Stevem]

Yes, but here again they are not of the shorting type!

[Phil_S]

Swtichcraft L12A is the long neck model. Use with nylon insulation bushing.

[Tone Lover]

Thanks guys . Mike I had some 1/8th inch thick rocket faceplates made seemed like an ok idea at the time . I will work it from a differant angle I have the long switch craft jacks . I will have to make them work. Having them grounded throws off my grounding schem. but I can insulate them I guess. Thanks For the offer to sand thinner. But the solder is flowing already. LOL.
Bill

[davent]

What if you just had the jack mounted to the faceplate, you could then bore the chassis hole large enough that the jack passes through and makes no contact and it's now also isolated from the chassis.

[Tone Lover]

Davent sounds like a good idea.
Bill

[davent]

Mulling this over further, my idea would mess things up if the jack is the means of holding the faceplate to the chassis at that point. Would need something to replace the jack's role in that case.
dave

[Andy Le Blanc]

most amp mfg that I've seen that tackle the same problem either recces the front panel or recces the chassis behind the dash board.

another consideration is input jack grounding... I try to not ground the input jack thru the chassis, in other words don't prioritize cosmetics over grounding.

[Tone Lover]

Im with you Andy I dont like my input grounded to the chassis. On single stage amps, I like valve wizards lifted grounding scheme. I might just take a little of the top in front and not let cosmetics get in the way.
I didnt think it out when I was offered some 1/8 inch thick wood faceplates
Bill

[Tone Lover]

Mulling this over further, my idea would mess things up if the jack is the means of holding the faceplate to the chassis at that point. Would need something to replace the jack's role in that case.
dave

Dave I was using a marshall style oak head cab I made and have some super heavy duty, double sided sticky tape I use to hold it on. so I could go that route havnt made up my mind yet.
Thanks Bill