Amp Chassis

[Littlewyan]

I'm looking for a chassis that I could use without having a head cab for it to go in. Any ideas?

[Bob S]

One of the brethren here (Dynaman I believe) has used toolboxes.
Very cool & his work is meticulous.

[sliberty]

Hammond makes cages to cover the tubes and transformers on some their chassis sizes.

[Littlewyan]

I looked at those but Hammond don't sell painted aluminum chassis' to match, only steel. They also sell walnut sided chassis' but I'm struggling to find small transformers that have wire connected to the windings. All of the small transformers I've looked at are open and use solder lugs, bit dangerous.

Toolboxes is a bit different but cool. I have an oscilloscope chassis I might use but its a bit awkward inside.

[sliberty]

I looked at those but Hammond don't sell painted aluminum chassis' to match, only steel. They also sell walnut sided chassis' but I'm struggling to find small transformers that have wire connected to the windings. All of the small transformers I've looked at are open and use solder lugs, bit dangerous.

Toolboxes is a bit different but cool. I have an oscilloscope chassis I might use but its a bit awkward inside.

They do sell aluminum chassis', but not painted. You could paint yourself if you care.

The steel cages and chassis come in black. Look sweet.

[Littlewyan]

Steel is a lot harder to drill into isn't it?

[sliberty]

Steel is a lot harder to drill into isn't it?

Of course. But the flip side of that is that it doesn't rip or bend as easily as aluminum, and it can handle the weight of the transformers more gracefully.

There are also electric characteristics that differ, but I can't comment much on that.

[stuben]

I like the Hammond steel chassis! The aluminum ones are a bit on the thin side. I have built amps on both and prefer the steel as it seems more sturdy. I did not find the steel to be much harder to drill.

[Littlewyan]

I might give the steel chassis a go then.

I've actually found a good solution to the head cab issue. TTC in Germany sell sort of head cab kits for not much money. Sure you've got to tolex the thing yourself or paint it but if you just paint it or varnish it you save a lot of money.

http://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/TTC-Am ... _3517.html

[rp]

If you don't mind the low budget lazy look you can get a raw wood cab and brush or spray truck bed liner on it or DIY undercoating, the stuff is self leveling and can look professional if done right, for myself I hate the look.

I've built amps on open chassis but I was just bored and wanted something different to show off big bottle tubes. It's not very practical, taking an amp, even a Champ, out of the house means pulling all the tubes, a box, a towel, some bubble wrap. I'm thinking of adapting my 5C8 with some plywood end panels so I can have an optional head cab for it. IOW even if you have a very specific use in mind for a hifi or cage style amp a cab is way more useful.

Here's a pic, you can't just toss it in a car:

[Littlewyan]

That amp looks awesome, but like you say you can't really take it anywhere without removing the valves first. It actually wouldn't be that easy to store in my room, especially since I keep my amps by the door I'd be worried that the dog will come in and knock it off the speaker cabinet. Hes big and clumsy!

[martin manning]

I could see an amp like that going into a fitted case of some kind, in which it could be secured for transport and/or dog-proofing.

[Phil_S]

Not sure if it fits...something like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boyle-Vanity-Ca ... 234dc38525

[rp]

That's actually a nice little case. Reminds me of my mom's cosmetic case. Would be just the thing for a glam band!

I'm actually thinking of building a road case rather than a cab for the 5C8. The wood end blocks are only secured with four 1" #4 sized wood screws each, 2 top 2 bottom. On the bottom to the cab I could use whatever I liked but the blocks to the chassis would still be holding on by 2 tiny screws each. So for a cab I'd have t modify the chassis, tapering/countersinking the stainless steel for long #8 uglier screws. Never thought to just grab a thrift store vintage case, I was going to slap some plywood together. I'm in thrifts all the time, now I'll look. For my 5C1 built this way a little vintage cosmetic case would sharp.

[M Fowler]

I use the Hammond black steel chassis 12x8x2, cage 12x8, and bottom plate 12x8 to build champs, Deluxes and 5b6 bassmans.

Use small Dremel grinding stone to remove paint on grounding points.

Mark