your favorite power cord and strain relief for Fender?

[pula58]

I have been getting my AC power cords from CE. The AWG 16 is a bit fat, a little too fat for the strain relief in the Silverface and Blackface Fenders that I often work-on.

I have wondered, for a while, what other folks are using. Fender Blackface and Silverface amps ...What's a good strain relief and power cord combination that fits just right?

Is there a better strain relief? Man, I hate those little black Heyco strain reliefs!

Thanks

Paul

P.S...maybe I don't have the right tool?

[billyz]

The 16/3 awg power cords are usually too big to fit most fender vintage amps.
I use the 18/3 awg . I get the 12' that have the iec connector, then I can use it for either. Cut off the end.
I use these pliers.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PI ... X0H85EWZ8M

I forget which heyco strain relief to use though. I have a draw full. But sometimes find it necessary to use a dremel with a round grinder stone to open them up when needed.

The 18/3 fits most older heyco strain relief though, so when replacing or converting to 3 wire I can usually use the original.

[gui_tarzan]

In my own amps I use the heavier cords that I get by the arm-load from work when we recycle old equipment. The file server cords are especially nice because they're much longer than standard computer power cords. I have to enlarge the openings in the chassis though and use the larger strain reliefs.

On customer amps I use the smaller cords, they fit in the stock strain reliefs with a little bit of whittling on the plastic that presses into the cord.

[Phil_S]

What Jim says, you have to drill out the opening for the larger size cord. This is actually the wrong approach as the traditional strain relief is flat on one side and should be done with a special punch.

Do what Billyz says and use a slimmer cord. 18AWG is good for way more Amps than your "appliance" will draw from the wall socket. You have available 120V @ 15A typically. Do the math. That's 1800W available to the primary. You get by with a 3A line fuse? That tells you 120V @ 3A = 360W on the primary will make it blow and 18AWG is more than adequate.

[Leo_Gnardo]

Heyco 6N3-4 strain relief works on most heavier gauge AC cables for me, 16ga and 18 with thick insulation.

I get moulded-plug AC cables from Magic Parts (Ruby) 16 ga with tails, and 18 ga with IEC computer plugs I cut off. Advantage: both are rated for 105C service. The 18 ga is a thinner cable and fits the need for chassis that have smaller power cable holes, gotta use a smaller Heyco, watch this space & I'll post the model #.

I've been looking and not finding any other easy sources for similar 105C rated cable, and it would be a hit to find some USA made. I makes me feel funny, putting Chinese made cables on vintage USA gear. Well, if that's the way it has to be...

There's some special tool for installing the Heycos, but I just use a small water pump plier since it's already in the tool rack.

[gui_tarzan]

What Jim says, you have to drill out the opening for the larger size cord. This is actually the wrong approach as the traditional strain relief is flat on one side and should be done with a special punch.

That is true, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

[Stevem]

I buy 15 ft 18 ga extension cords from Home Depo, far and away cheaper per ft!!

[stretch2011]

I got a hole bunch of 12-15ft 16/3 for less than $2 a piece at a liquidation outlet. Needless to say SCORE.

[pdf64]

Mark Norwine has some useful looking info regarding this topic here http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showth ... ief&page=4

The hole....stock...is .500"

If you're content with an 18/3 SVT cord, then you don't ream out the heyco....you buy the proper heyco!

To be absolutely clear: a Heyco for 18/3 SVT that will fit the existing .500" hole is readily available. Just buy one. No drilling of the chassis, no reaming of the old Heyco. Easy-Peasy. Heyco part number SR 5N-4 (AKA "new" part # 1150). OK? Stop all the bad advice!

http://www.heyco.com/Strain_Relief_B...s/pdf/4-27.pdf

~~~

If, however, you want an 18/3SJT (or SJ) cord, then you need a bigger Heyco *AND* hole. Heycoo part number SR 6P3-4 (AKA "new" part number 1207) for a .625 hole.

http://www.heyco.com/Strain_Relief_B...s/pdf/4-28.pdf

[M Fowler]

I bought a bunch of different sized strain reliefs to have on hand and prefer 18/3 over 16/3 but some chassis need the thicker 16/3 and proper Heyco strain relief.

[Phil_S]

What Jim says, you have to drill out the opening for the larger size cord. This is actually the wrong approach as the traditional strain relief is flat on one side and should be done with a special punch.

That is true, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

Yeah, I've done it, too, but that doesn't make it "right."
You can go broke buying punches.