Tolexing Amp and Cabinet Corners

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gcmestas
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Tolexing Amp and Cabinet Corners

Post by gcmestas »

I am getting ready to tolex a speaker cabinet that I have built. However, I'm not going to use covers on the corner and I was wondering if anyone has had success on tolexing rounded corners by simply stretching the tolex. I think that's what Marshall does with these small boomboxes (see link below) that they make, and I would like to do the same thing, i'm just not sure how...

http://shop.marshallamps.com/p/stanmore

If anyone has any good advice it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
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Geoff
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Phil_S
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Re: Tolexing Amp and Cabinet Corners

Post by Phil_S »

Looks like you'll be using a hair dryer to get it flexible. That and divine intervention.
gcmestas
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Re: Tolexing Amp and Cabinet Corners

Post by gcmestas »

Would a heat gun or a hair dryer actually work to wrap the tolex around the corner?
Geoff
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rp
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Re: Tolexing Amp and Cabinet Corners

Post by rp »

gcmestas wrote:Would a heat gun or a hair dryer actually work to wrap the tolex around the corner?
It should be so easy, heat's not really a substitute for cursing and practice. I've done about 15 cabs and corners are always a problem for me, but one cab a year or two isn't enough practice. Anyway the heat gun can cause you to stretch the tolex, then guess what? It stretches back as time goes by and the seams show. So you still need to cut and fit it right, a bit of heat just helps you fold it over, I stopped bothering with it. Certain glues like traditional laminate adhesive will stretch the vinyl too and the same problem.
gcmestas
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Re: Tolexing Amp and Cabinet Corners

Post by gcmestas »

So you would recommend miter cutting the corners and not trying to pull the tolex around...
Geoff
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rp
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Re: Tolexing Amp and Cabinet Corners

Post by rp »

Not sure on exact definition of miter here but yes to both. Initially I just looked closely at an old Fender and Marshall and copied their corners, made a few paper templates till I got it right. Kept the templates as I Tolex so infrequently I forget. So, I cut the tolex to fit properly around the inside first, then leave two square flaps that overlap over the corner and cut a miter right through both with a very sharp new blade that I change often. Then I glue it all down, no heat should be needed, unless maybe it's cold in your work space. You can heat it to help but I guarantee you if you pull and stretch it will stretch back. My big problem is I'll often get a little peak or sharp pinch at the top of the corner miter and not that perfect roundness. Haven't figured that one out yet, maybe I'm cutting too far up the corner. There's some pros here that might chime in with better tips.
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statorvane
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Re: Tolexing Amp and Cabinet Corners

Post by statorvane »

Only thing I can add is to use a sharp knife blade. Set one aside just for the corners.
Phazor
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Re: Tolexing Amp and Cabinet Corners

Post by Phazor »

Just did a fender homebuilt cab with hyde glue and followed the fender corners on a fender amp I have. The next day my brother use a mallet and did a light pound and it sets the cut and looks great. The Marshall cab you show looks really good. I'm still learning and cussing from time to time.
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JMFahey
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Re: Tolexing Amp and Cabinet Corners

Post by JMFahey »

It depends a lot on the tolex; to be more precise on the kind of fabric backing it.

The standard Fender/Marshall/Vox type has a canvas/sailcloth backing.
It's made out of cotton threads forming a tight "net" at right angles, and even if you soften plastic with heat, the cloth itself does not stretch.

It's meant for gluing to wood and in curved corners it has to be cut because you end up with "way too much" material which has to be removed that way.

There is a second type of covering vinyl cloth, which has a synthetic (think Lycra or similar) knitted backing which can be stretched, sometimes only in one way, sometimes in both.
It is designed to stretch and cover non flat surfaces , it can be "pulled inside" in a corner without much problem, but can still be cut and give you sharp, matching edges.

Is somewhat harder to work with, because solvent based contact cement first softens it too much, and then when drying "pulls" and it easilly rolls up on its own, sometimes tou have to temporarily tack ends to the worktable until you are ready to proceed.

Then there's a third type which has a soft, thin felt type backing, is meant for clothing or tablecloths or car covers, VERY flexible and easy to stretch , not really meant for gluing but sewn or stapled, you can cover any complex shape with it but better hide joints (usually under the cabinet or head) because cuts are not clean, you always have some loose fibers messing it.
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Structo
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Re: Tolexing Amp and Cabinet Corners

Post by Structo »

The problem I had before with the tolex corners was once I got it in shape and cut, the cut would open up a bit after a while.
I guess I stretched it too much and when it contracted it opened up.

Then I went and bought four nickel corner covers.

I don't even want to think about tweed ............
Tom

Don't let that smoke out!
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statorvane
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Re: Tolexing Amp and Cabinet Corners

Post by statorvane »

Tweed is much easier than tolex/vinyl.
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