Fender 5e3p from Wurlitzer organ amp

[Zombie_stomp]

I tried rotating it, I just thought that would expose the waxy papery part of the transformer to the heat. What about using a SS rectifier? The power tubes are probably far enough away. I don't remember if turning it made the wires not reach, or if I just didn't like the idea of drilling 4 more holes. This is goin to be a weird hacked up chassis anyway though, so why not? I'll look I to it again.

[Zombie_stomp]

I was thinking, and I remember rotating it would either pinch the wires under it if I use the same hole, or necessitate 5 new holes while not alleviating much more space in the process. I think an extension for the recto or a SS one would be best. I bought the 'another good deal' meter on your las link, Phil.

[Phil_S]

I bought the 'another good deal' meter on your las link, Phil.

I think I have one of those or one like it. Not a bad meter. At that price point, it's hard to go wrong. The thing is, now you have made the plunge and should admit you are addicted. I'll pick you up on the way to the 12-step program.

[Zombie_stomp]

12 step program? But I don't want to quit!

Hey, also, there's another hole closer to the PT I could move the rectifier to in order to move it away from the OT. It would be a tiny bit further from the PT than it is from the OT which may be better since the PT has a metal case.

You can see the extra hole in the overhead shot.

[Phil_S]

Not sure what's under the deck and your other layout plans. I think I'd give a long hard look at opening up the hole farther away -- the smaller of the two meant for mounting caps.

You don't have to quit. Just don't start discussing B+ or lead dress with your friends or in polite company, and certainly not with your family.

[Zombie_stomp]

The hole farther from the OT is the same size, just closer to the PT. It would not affect the interior part mounting much. I think about fabricating a custom chassis sometimes. But that would really slow down the build a lot, I've not been granted access to the metal shop I work in for personal use and probably won't for some time. An extension for the rectifier up in the air away from the OT seems to be the best bet, and I can peice that together with stuff I have laying around the garage.

[Zombie_stomp]

After almost 2 years, I'm back. I decided to make a chassis to original spec out of a little heavier than original gauge galvanneal sheet metal (because that's what I could find at the metal yard). I'm missing a couple of resistors and a capacitor, and besides that and making my own component board, it's ready to go together. The board is out of an old Hammond organ amp I bought on eBay. Here are some photos of the new chassis going and the parts going together in it. I'm open to any suggestions, and I'm going to be looking back through this thread to remember the advice that'd been given last time I was going at it.

New chassis:

build_tweed_chassis.jpeg

Board I'm building:

Build_board.jpeg

Getting it wired back to where it was but in the new chassis:

build_power.jpg

A view of how I decided to mount the transformers:

Build_transformers.jpeg

I will probably fabricate a metal strap around the transformer since it weighs a lot and will be twisting on the chassis hanging out front like that. The strap will clamp on and have a nut welded for a support bolt. Cabinet will otherwise be very similar in design to a tweed era.

[Zombie_stomp]

I've made a lot of slow progress building the board since I last posted, and am nearing the point of having a piece of cardboard to mount the pots and jacks on while I wire them. I am also nearing the point of referring back to what all of the transformer wires go to, and decoding my wires compared to the color codes of the weber kit transformers depicted in the plans. Today, in addition to soldering a few more board items (including the bias pot setup), I drilled 4 holes and put bolt posts with standoffs that correspond to the hole pattern on my brown board. It drops right on there nicely, all I need is to have the rest of the wires set to everything else before it is permanently mounted.

Build_board_progress.jpeg

Build_2.jpeg

[Zombie_stomp]

I've got just about everything I need to assemble my chassis, except I just realized that there may be a difference between my transformer and the one in weber kits. It has to do with this end of the pot/resistor/diode end that looks like it needs a 50v bias voltage. My transformer doesn't seem to have that and I don't know enough about what is goin on to make some sort of substitute.

In my photo the upper hole has 6v windings coming out green and green/yellow, red/black is hot, black is neutral. Below we have high voltage in red to pins 4 and 6, and 5v to pins 2 and 8 and B+ coming out of pin 8. Red/yellow wire is Center Tap of high voltage, which I think should go to ground so ~350 comes out each leg, right? But no "50v bias" wire like in the layout. So now I'm wondering what's going on with that bias pot that I can change. If I change this part alone to the 5e3 design, it would put that end to pin 8, but that design runs 6v6s, and I don't know what that would do to my 6l6s. Little bit stuck here, I've been taught enough to reach this dead end.
images: 5e3p layout

5e3p_DIYLC.png

my PT

066.JPG

067.JPG

5e3 layout

5e3_layout.jpg