Plexi6v6 input wiring help needed

[deiseldave]

Could someone give me some guidance? I have a Plexi6v6 build with (2) input jacks. I would ultimately like to have the ability to have both hi/low inputs and the flexibility to also run the channels both independent, and jumped. Could I do that with a switch? That seems like the nearly impossible dream. So, if I had to choose a lesser option, I would be more than content to have hi & low, with the channels permanently jumped internally. I just can't seem to figure out any of those scenarios.
Currently, I just have one jack wired with a 1M from tip to ground, and (2) shielded wires from tip with 68K resistors at the tube ends soldered to V1 pins 2 and 7.
Thanks in advance for your help.

Thanks.

[Smokebreak]

So you want hi/lo, bright/normal, and hi/lo parallel ?
I'm sure there's a more elegant way to do it, but I would wire the inputs like traditional hi/lo setup : https://tubeamparchive.com/files/input_jack_533.pdf

Then you could put 2 spdt on the back by the tubes(shorter grid runs).
1st switch takes signal from 68k's(before it hits grid) and goes to center lug. Outer lugs go to either the 2k7/.68 triode, or 820r/220u, at the grid(s)
This lets you plug into either hi/lo, then select bright or normal

The other switch(can be spst) goes grid1>switch>grid2, to allow switching between jumpered, or not.

That might all work You could also use the 18w arrangement on that PDF to do the same, but switching would be different . Good luck!

[deiseldave]

Wow! Thanks, Smokebreak.

[deiseldave]

Probably a really stupid question. But, when I started looking at switches at Mouser, I saw that there are many SPDT toggle configurations. Would I want "on-on" for the channel switch?

[Smokebreak]

There are no stupid questions when it comes to ordering from Mouser. I ever tell you about the time time I wound up with $100 worth of 16mm pots? Hell, yesterday , after a rushed order, I wound up with a few 5K pots that resemble large lolipops

Yes you want ON-ON for the channel switch. I believe a parenthesis e.g. ON-(ON) denotes momentary, which you do not want.
http://www.mouser.com/Mountain-Switch/E ... =Pricing|0
Just watch the bat length, and solder vs. PC mount.

The ON-OFF-ON SPDT are good for switching when you want the "stock" option(off), and then switching between 2 other things. Say a 10K cathode stage that you also want to get 5K and 2K7/.68 out of.

That will come in handy when you want to cascade the triodes, which you'll also need a DPDT for, to do the cascade switching
.

[deiseldave]

I ordered the switches, Smokebreak. Thanks for the help. After looking at switch configurations, it looked like a DPDT on-on-on, should be able to allow me to wire up bright only, normal only, and jumped on one switch. Actually it looks like a SPDT on-on-on would work to do it all. But, they didn't have any of those in stock (mini toggle).
I ordered a couple DPDT's to try. Thanks again for the help.

[Smokebreak]

Good luck and let me know how it turns out!

[deiseldave]

DPDT worked great. switch pins 1 & 6 strapped to ground, pins 3 & 4 strapped with coax feeds from input jacks hi & lo ending in 68k terminated to each, and then, feeds to V1 pins 2 & 7 go to switch pins 2 & 5. Switch up: pins 1-2. and 4-5 are on = bright channel input grounded, normal channel on. Switch middle: pins 2=3 & 4-5 are on = both channels on. Switch down: pins 2-3 & 5-6 on = bright channel on, normal channel input grounded.
The hi/lo jacks work great too.
Thanks a bunch, Smokebreak.

[Smokebreak]

Awesome! Glad you got it worked out