NAD! Silverface Super Reverb

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beasleybodyshop
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NAD! Silverface Super Reverb

Post by beasleybodyshop »

So I traded a blackface Twin reissue for a silverface super reverb that the previous owner admitted didnt work and he had no idea why. I took a chance on it as after learning everything you guys here at TAG had to offer me, I could make it work! This amp has been one of my dream amps for a long time now.

Upon opening up the hood and checking transformer date codes, ive dated it to late 71/early 72. Big ol cap to ground off the bias pot gives this away as an AA270 circuit.

Looks like a power tube socket burned up in the past, and was replaced - i spotted a large burn mark on the outside of the chassis near the socket. This seems to confirm it.

First thing I did was completely redo the heater wiring. I used black/red a la marshall so i would know exactly if my heater wires were in phase. I noticed the artificial center tap resistors were replaced - also 3 of the preamp tubes had shorts in them. I think the guy kept popping center tap resistors because of the shorted tubes. I replaced them with some 5 percent carbon films that matched dead on to each other.

Other than those two things, I couldn't spot any other alterations other than a replaced grid leak on channel 1. You can imagine how relieved I felt to see a basically unadulterated circuit.....Now its my turn to do some hacking and chopping :)

I changed the bias circuit to blackface type. I swapped in two precision metal film 220Ks to the power tubes for this. They were spot on 220K match, so I figured that was important. I also replaced the 1.5K's on the tube sockets with dale 1% jobbies I had laying around. My thought is to get the bias circuit as equal and precise as possible.

Next up was cutting the death cap (for grins, i checked continuity - the cap had failed and was shorting. Glad i didnt fire it up!) and new three prong cord. I also cut the .002pf cap on the reverb input out, as my AB763 schematic didnt show one (i plan on basically blackfacing this thing)

electrolytics are all original. I am going whole hog and im just going to use Spragues or F&Ts.

Other than replacing the electrolytics, I think im going to leave the brown turds and ceramic disks alone until after I can fire it up. Ive read that people replace the ceramic disks along with the electrolytics - any weight to that? Im going to swap in some 3W 470 ohm metal oxides on the power tube sockets as well.

Speakers were the original type with the square magnets - are those CTS or Oxford? It had been reconed a few years ago (someone penned the date on the inside of the cones.

All in all, im super excited to be restoring this thing! I thought I would do my part and post my thought process a bit. Pics should be attached.
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Leo_Gnardo
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Re: NAD! Silverface Super Reverb

Post by Leo_Gnardo »

Excellent work Beaze! Good thing you found that shorted death cap - that's how they got their name.

No point these days spending extra $$ for Spray-goo caps. Inside those big blue cylinders, plastic "wool" packing and a normal size cap. Some time ago Sprague stopped making the proper caps and cynically kept making these fakers plus raise the price by 2x or 3x. Hey if we dress it up you'll buy it and we got your money, nanner nanner.... F&T are generally well rated. I get Ruby which resemble F&T in looks but I'm sure they get 'em elsewhere. I generally buy 50 quantities to keep the workshop stocked at a break price over onesies. Hey it's time to restock 47/500. One thing you might try is bumping up the value of the main filter caps. Usually I see 70uF/350V and replace with 100 uF. (Don't increase past 100 uF because rectifier tubes don't much like it when they have to charge too large a cap. A pair of 100's in series will be 50 uF and that's about the limit.)

While the caps are out check those 220K balancing R's. Sometimes I find 'em spot on and other times drifted up to @ 280K. If they're much more than a couple percent different, change. If near identical, keep. If the value's off and that bugs you change 'em. I like IRC carbon film 3W R's from Mouser rated for 1000V use, but there's no 220K in this model so pick 100K or 330K as you wish.

Square magnet speakers usually CTS, and Eminence continued the squares after CTS morphed into Eminence. They might be OK but if they don't sound too exciting once the amp is all fixed up, might consider Jensen MOD 10-35, inexpensive but remarkably good, or Jensen C10Q, nice all over, clear top end, another favorite.

I generally replace disc signal caps with Mallory 150 film. Tap on a ceramic signal cap in an amp that's running and you'll likely hear a "clack". Like a microphonic tube or guitar cable, this can make your guitar sound "clacky". It's working as a very crappy band-limited condensor mic. Aw but isn't that vintage stock? Well yes it is but so far nobody's complained about that sound going away.

Don't forget to renew the bias filter cap.
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beasleybodyshop
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Re: NAD! Silverface Super Reverb

Post by beasleybodyshop »

As always Leo, you are the man!

I think I will heed your advice and go with the 2 100uf filter caps. And I've decided to go F&T...they are proud of those spragues! Yeah I intended on going with another bias cap...I think I'm going to go 50uf 100 volt on that one. The mismatched octal sockets bug my ADD, so I'm going to order some ceramic ones in the odd chance it arcs again.
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Phil_S
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Re: NAD! Silverface Super Reverb

Post by Phil_S »

Really good post. Thanks.
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Re: NAD! Silverface Super Reverb

Post by rfgordon »

If the tremolo is weak or doesn't work, here's my troubleshooting plan:
1. Swap out the tremolo tube for a known good 12AX7 with good gain.
2. If weak, put fresh bypass cap on the cathode of the first oscillator triode. If not working at all, replace the three caps in the oscillator circuit. They are two discs and a turd in a row on the board.
3. If all of that doesn't get it going, check the function of the foot switch. If it latches OK, then move on to next step.
4. Replace the "bug" (neon bulb/photo resistor combo). Pay very careful attention to install it correctly.
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"The takers get the honey, the givers get the blues." --Robin Trower
beasleybodyshop
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Re: NAD! Silverface Super Reverb

Post by beasleybodyshop »

I ordered a new LDR roach and caps for the tremolo circuit, in case it doesnt work. I have a full set of Mullard 12AX7/AT7s for this thing and a set of Sylvania 6L6s....or a set of Tung Sol 5881s. I have so many options! I am pigging out over here....

Leo, which 220K balancing resistors are you talking about? I have the pair that i installed in the bias circuit, and another pair near the tremolo circuit. Is that the pair you are talking about?
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xtian
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Re: NAD! Silverface Super Reverb

Post by xtian »

beasleybodyshop wrote:Leo, which 220K balancing resistors are you talking about? I have the pair that i installed in the bias circuit, and another pair near the tremolo circuit. Is that the pair you are talking about?
No, I think he's talking about the ones in the doghouse with the reservoir caps.
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beasleybodyshop
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Re: NAD! Silverface Super Reverb

Post by beasleybodyshop »

xtian wrote:
beasleybodyshop wrote:Leo, which 220K balancing resistors are you talking about? I have the pair that i installed in the bias circuit, and another pair near the tremolo circuit. Is that the pair you are talking about?
No, I think he's talking about the ones in the doghouse with the reservoir caps.
Would it be better to replace those with precision 3watt resistors?
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Leo_Gnardo
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Re: NAD! Silverface Super Reverb

Post by Leo_Gnardo »

xtian wrote:
beasleybodyshop wrote:Leo, which 220K balancing resistors are you talking about? I have the pair that i installed in the bias circuit, and another pair near the tremolo circuit. Is that the pair you are talking about?
No, I think he's talking about the ones in the doghouse with the reservoir caps.
Yep xtian, them's the ones, in the doghouse. Balancing DC across the series-wired filter caps. If they're within say 5% of each other no need to replace. Sometimes they drift, mostly upwards to @ 270K. Your call Beaze, to replace if they've done the drift. Super precision not necessary. I buy typically 50-200 resistors 5% tolerance at a time & use ohm meter to pick a pair that are close for applications asking for balance or symmetry - same for lots of other R's in Fenders and similar.

Those IRC from Mouser I mentioned, I happen to like because they're 1000V rated, OTOH no 220K value. They're 3W so 100K will work fine. Heck Marshall uses what, 56K? Kind of low IMHO but big so what.

Took a post snow-shoveling nap. Whew, needed that. Thanx for filling in xtian!
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