Wood Ninja

[EtherealWidow]

Dangit. I guess my jokes suck.

[NickC]

So ...... what is a good dovetail jig to use with a router for building amp and speaker cabs?

I have the phenolic Keller dovetail jig. It comes with a couple of high quality bits, so remember it is priced accordingly. It is a jig that is virtually idiot proof, but it only cuts one size dovetail. The price seems to have doubled!!! http://www.amazon.com/Keller-Dovetail-S ... vetail+jig
Rockler seems to have a knock off of the Keller and much better pricing, but without the two router bits: http://www.rockler.com/miniature-doveta ... te-bit-kit though it's a "mini" dovetail...I suspect there are other knockoffs.
If I was in the market for something now, I'd get one that cuts both pieces of the joint at the same time, like this http://www.rockler.com/rockler-s-complete-dovetail-jig or maybe this http://www.rockler.com/4210-porter-cabl ... vetail-jig and that lets you do blind dovetails, too.

Even better, but not as simple, are ones that take multiple templates http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... vetail+jig but they start to get pricey, and I'm of the mind that there is more to go wrong.

Good luck with it. There is too much to choose from!

You can use one side of the jig to do box joints if you prefer.

Thanks Phil!

I have shopped around, researched, and got lost in all the choices available for a couple years now, but still haven't acquired a jig. I appreciate your recommendations. That will help me to decide and move forward.

[Phil_S]

Nick, I suggest that you spend a few more dollars on a known commodity than to save a few semolians and end up with something you feel isn't good enough. Keller, Leigh, Porter Cable -- these are brands that consistently get good reviews. MCLS and Rockler are specialty stores and I doubt they sell junk. At the latter two places, you can probably make a phone call and actually speak with someone who knows something, but I'm guessing at that.

Remember, the jig is only half the tool. The router is the other half. I keep wishing I had a better router, one that isn't so physically large and with variable speed. You will get more flexibility if you router has both 1/4" and 1/2" collets, but that isn't essential. A router with a good depth adjustment mechanism is important.

I bought my router maybe 25 years ago -- a near bottom of the line 25,000 rpm Craftsman -- what I could afford at the time. It has a screw-driven clamp to fix the height. It is subject to slippage. I think the vibrations loosen the screw. I've learned to tighten it with a big slip jaw pliers and one day I'm sure it will break (excuse to buy a new one.) I've shopped recently, but I really don't do enough with it to justify getting another. It's my impression that routers on the market now are (relatively) less expensive, better designed and made, and there are more choices than ever. In particular, if you are just an occasional user, you might do well to see if you can find one in a pawn shop or on eBait, where you should be able to get a quality item for 50% off. Do you really care if it has a little dirt on it? After you use it a few times, I guarantee, it'll be dirty!

Like amp building, woodworking is mildly addictive and unlike amp building you start to "need" progressively more expensive tools and accessories. In this case, you want to put on your list of things that are nice to have, a router table...you see what I mean. I do my router cutting with the jig clamped on a Black and Decker Workmate that I can take outside, and the result is that my joints are often off by the smallest fraction and I will force fit them or use a chisel or bit of sand paper to make them fit. It would be so much easier with a table! OTOH, there are things you can make for yourself, for example, you don't need to buy that expensive Jasper circle jig (it is nice) when you can make a perfectly serviceable one from a bit of left over masonite.

Good luck.

[Cantplay]

One of the issues I've had with most dovetail jigs is they aren't wide enough.

You need 9" minimum to do most head cabs, and at least 12" for most speaker cabs.

Yes, you can shift the jig and try to match up the overlap. I've tried that, and as easy as it should be, it's always off a bit. You end up having to file all the tails to fit, and that creates gaps.

John

[Phil_S]

One of the issues I've had with most dovetail jigs is they aren't wide enough.

You need 9" minimum to do most head cabs, and at least 12" for most speaker cabs.

Yes, you can shift the jig and try to match up the overlap. I've tried that, and as easy as it should be, it's always off a bit. You end up having to file all the tails to fit, and that creates gaps.

John

Actually, the Keller product, with no moving parts, excels at being moved across the work for wide boards. Though I've never had to do it, getting a good alignment appears to be quite simple and the instructions indicate the same. It's good for a board at least 12" wide without moving it, maybe as much as 13" or a little more.

[Structo]

My biggest obstacle to wood working, is that my wife will get really pissed if I bring the tools in and put them on the dining table.
I have a two car garage but half of it is taken up by my non running '95 Z71 pickup.

She really doesn't give me a lot of grief about working on amps on the table but she really doesn't want me to take that to the next level, with a drill press and other assorted power tools.

So I guess in my bucket list, a wood shop would really be cool.
I think I could get pretty good at it but I haven't been able to ever string enough time together to call it experience.

The drill press I used to drill out my LP Top Hat knobs is in the spare bedroom, on the floor.
I don't think I have the strength to move it for the past year since it seems to be at least 100 lbs.

[cbass]

Maybe its an illusion and I sure as hell ain't gonna try to make joints like that but the first pic looks like it has gaps that I wouldn't find acceptable.

Tom what's wrong with your pickup I've been All through them TBI engines

[Phil_S]

I have a two car garage but half of it is taken up by my non running '95 Z71 pickup.

That, my friend, is taking up the space where your woodshop should be. Get on with it. That truck is almost 20 years old. Face the music. Do what has to be done.

[stevlech]

Maybe its an illusion and I sure as hell ain't gonna try to make joints like that but the first pic looks like it has gaps that I wouldn't find acceptable.

I thought the same thing. The problem with being clever is that it makes it sooo much harder to do something well.

But who am I so say- I need every crutch I can get my hands on.

[Structo]

Maybe its an illusion and I sure as hell ain't gonna try to make joints like that but the first pic looks like it has gaps that I wouldn't find acceptable.

Tom what's wrong with your pickup I've been All through them TBI engines

Radiator went leaky.

It pisses me off that they use plastic tanks on those radiators.

I have been procrastinating the repair because of all the connections.
Water, Tranny, Air etc.

Plus there seems to be a bazillion different radiators that they used in these trucks so I would have to remove it and take it to the parts store to see what will fit.

I guess I am just getting lazy as I would have had this fixed years ago.

Not to mention after they added ethanol to our gas this truck gets about 10 miles a gallon now.......

[M Fowler]

Remove the radiator and take it to a radiator shop, they know radiators these parts store guys don't know crap, well some do but not many.