I want it done with working original crap because when I hit it with an iron I am going to kill a certain amount of "that original thing" and with it goes perceived mojo and the insane value concept. omg what if I got a solder blob stain on something? Sounds silly but you know what I mean.
Signatures have a 255 character limit that I could abuse, but I am not Cecil B. DeMille.
You cannot archive the impossible. The amp will change when you work on it, especially if it is one of those OMG this is the best one ever it sounds like it is going to blow anytime, it is so hot sounding-type of amps.
The approach is to change as little as possible. Try doing the B+ and bias filter caps only. Leave the cathode bypass caps alone.
This will make the amp safe to use. Pretty much what was said already...
jelle wrote:You cannot archive the impossible. The amp will change when you work on it, especially if it is one of those OMG this is the best one ever it sounds like it is going to blow anytime, it is so hot sounding-type of amps.
The approach is to change as little as possible. Try doing the B+ and bias filter caps only. Leave the cathode bypass caps alone.
This will make the amp safe to use. Pretty much what was said already...
To agree and expand:
And it will change if you don't work on it too. Especially if the bias filter is failing, and much for the worse. Remember the immoral, oops, immortal words of Joe Walsh "Sounded GREAT - just before it blew up!"
If you feel like exercising your spycraft, try slipping new caps into the cardboard jackets of the old ones - hi voltage & bias only - and that will fool anyone with bad enough vision... If there's blackish goop leaking out the end of any of the 2x25uF dualies, woops you'll have to replace, so solly. Try not to alert the original parts only "authorities" not so happily referred to as Fender Nazis. Do what must be done & feast your ears. Thanksgiving draws nigh and you have many amps n guitars to celebrate. Just don't roast any, OK?
