New build in progress: Brownnote High Voltage D'lite

[talbany]

Tm
Not sure if you know but since the screens are 1/2 that of the plates a low value screen resistors are all that is needed (150 ohm or so).Also don't forget to install the spike diode on the plates of the output tubes like Howie did..Break the Stby on the cold side and play around with the GNFB resistor..

Good Luck!!

Tony

[ToneMerc]

Tm
Not sure if you know but since the screens are 1/2 that of the plates a low value screen resistors are all that is needed (150 ohm or so).Also don't forget to install the spike diode on the plates of the output tubes like Howie did..Break the Stby on the cold side and play around with the GNFB resistor..

Good Luck!!

Tony

Hi Tony,

Screen resistors: I have been using 5W 150R ww, but I found a new resistor at Mouser that i'm going to try, it's a non-inductive 5W. I picked up the only values they stocked at the time which were 100 and 250R, I plan on trying the 100R first.

Spike Diodes: yep 3KV, .25A

Standby switching: i've done the Full DC( never got the warm and fuzzies with this method) and the cold side.
However, I was thinking of trying this method next; switching the hot leg before the diodes, while putting a 3W 100K across the standby which should serve as soft start of sorts.
When looking at the MM schematic it appears to be done this way; Hi>standby>low which in the standby position the hot secondary side is open. On the surface it would appear that this method would be harder on the diodes and caps and thus the idea for including the soft start.

What do you think about this or should I just stick with the cold side switching method?

Mike

[talbany]

Mike
There are several way's to do it. I have not tried the cold start method you mention...However on paper looks like it should work well..
I will however say that the ones I built (using the cold side) are quiet and have never taken out a fuse (or diode) on the surge inward..I never botherd to try other methods there..if it ain't broke....
Please keep us posted on how it works for you if you go there?

Since the screens are run at 1/2 of the plates I look at the screen resistors in this supply as more like a fuse..34's have a wimpy screen supply so you want those resistors to go before the transformer fry's

Again Good Luck!!

Tony

[ToneMerc]

Mike
There are several way's to do it. I have not tried the cold start method you mention...However on paper looks like it should work well..
I will however say that the ones I built (using the cold side) are quiet and have never taken out a fuse (or diode) on the surge inward..I never botherd to try other methods there..if it ain't broke....
Please keep us posted on how it works for you if you go there?

Again Good Luck!!

Tony

True that, cold side does work.When switching the cold side, did you notice if you had voltage the plates? I only checked V1, but if IIRC it had like 12-14V on the plates in standby.

As always thanks

M

[talbany]

Mike
There are several way's to do it. I have not tried the cold start method you mention...However on paper looks like it should work well..
I will however say that the ones I built (using the cold side) are quiet and have never taken out a fuse (or diode) on the surge inward..I never botherd to try other methods there..if it ain't broke....
Please keep us posted on how it works for you if you go there?

Again Good Luck!!

Tony

True that, cold side does work.When switching the cold side, did you notice if you had voltage the plates? I only checked V1, but if IIRC it had like 12-14V on the plates in standby.

M

Mike
I don't remember.. if I get a chance in the next few day's I'll crack it open..

T

[ToneMerc]

Caps and resistors culled, prepped and placed.

TM

[Mark]

Where did you find those trim pots?

I haven't seen them for sale.

[ToneMerc]

The OD entrance trimmer comes from Mouser it's the CTS 201X series, the other from a local surplus parts house.

TM

[Mark]

Thanks Mike.

[ToneMerc]

Thanks Mike.

YW Mark

TM

[Structo]

Looks awesome Mike.

Are those all vintage Draloric resistors?

[ToneMerc]

Looks awesome Mike.

Are those all vintage Draloric resistors?

In the same family sort of, vintage Beyschlag and Piher with 70's & 80's dipped orange drops.

Thanks Tom

TM

[dcribbs1412]

Looks like a nice recipe for great tone Mike
I notice 180k and 39k for 219k on the OD...assuming its a 100k trimmer
120k for the slope
and the 180k for OD Volume
interested if you have used these values before and what they do.


Darin

[ToneMerc]

I notice 180k and 39k for 219k on the OD...assuming its a 100k trimmer
120k for the slope
and the 180k for OD Volume
interested if you have used these values before and what they do.


Darin

Thanks Darin,
the mid cap is .035 and slope actually is 117.5K, just trying to sweeten it a tad for a Strat. The bypass caps on V1 are both 14.5uf to fatten up the cleans which will work with the low plates. The 180K will reduce gain a bit, smoothing the top end, however I have 332pf snubbers on V2, so I might be swapping the socket for another that has 260pf on it. Each one of these builds is its own personality, sometimes its a thin line between sweetness and sounding like butt.

Not sure what I'm doing with the relays, thinking using the third one to lift the bright cap in OD mode, then I can install a larger value cap that wont be so offensive in OD.

TM

[dcribbs1412]

Sounds like a good plan Mike
Like to hear how you like the "bright off" OD relay(if you implement it)
Have been thinking about that and haven't tried it.
Agree about the crack/line between sweet and butt, the more I
get to know how these circuits work the more I think
I understand...then I plug in and realize I might sometimes be the source of the butt....or can I blame my guitars?

So no FET...not sure if that's a 120K at the top of your power supply.
I do kinda like the FET with a strat in my low plate.

Darin