Slant cab experiment in 2x12

[Geeze]

I am a wood whore with so so wood skills on my way to building a beautiful speaker cab in flame cherry with walnut trim. Looking for other DIY cab builders to cuss and discuss and probably explain the finer points of cab building.

This is the third cab attempt and the first with a slant configuration. Several firsts -

Finger joints that taught me about the virtues of pairing each of the joints together when cutting by doing it almost the right way first. The cab is 3/4" narrower to compensate

A jute type grill cloth [UPS thoughtfully folded the shipping box] that required attachment to the fab table and the use of 220 lbs of force to stretch smoothly. I just knew my pizza and nacho diet would serve me well some day.

An attempt at home made stain in a effort to make poplar look semi decent. Fail - flat black spray paint covers a lot of sins. As does wood filler.

11 degree angles can be cut reliably on a table saw - who knew. After a botched attempt with a skill saw anything would look better.

Rear mount speakers. Except for one 2x10 cube cab with no rear opening, I prefer it save for the waiting for the epoxied screws to set - too eager to plunk in speakers.

Also first attempt to post pic here - let me know if it is big enough. I didn't see a file/post size limits on the FAQ page, just that there is one. I resized the pic down.

Russ

[xtian]

Wow! Looks great in your scaled-down photo!

Sure know what you mean about botching each step along the way. Woodworking is a long and hard earned journey.

[Cantplay]

A couple of tips to reduce that glue flashing.

Give the wood a coat of finish before you glue it. Be careful not to get it into the joint edges. Tape off along the glue line with painters tape so runs can't soak in.

Keep a wet rag handy to wipe off any glue that goes where it shouldn't.

You can work jute easier if its damp. It stretches wet and shrinks dry.

John

[Geeze]

Thank you for the tips on the pre-finishing. I plan to oil the pretty wood cab. I am currently contemplating doing a 2x10 slant cab as I am enjoying the smaller and lighter speakers.

One issue they seem to mitigate is too much low frequency response. The guitar/amp setup I have seems to pump out too much bass when jamming with my 14 year old son who channels Keith Moon. It got better when I went from active to passive pups and better yet with the 10" speakers.

I know there are tricks for maintaining the higher frequencies on the volume / tone pots via capacitors and resistors. Does anyone know of a method for controlling the low end at the guitar hardware?

[SeanF]

Rear mount speakers. Except for one 2x10 cube cab with no rear opening, I prefer it save for the waiting for the epoxied screws to set - too eager to plunk in speakers.

Russ

I use threaded inserts on the back side of the baffle to hold 8-32 studs in place. No waiting

[Cantplay]

Secure the wires so they can't possibly touch the cone if the cab gets rough handled.

John

[Structo]

Nice job!

Looks great from here.

My experience with poplar is it doesn't take stain well at all.

But I am not even an amateur wood worker.

[cbass]

All I know is that I am done with dovetails and box joints .
I'm all about lock joints now.they look better and are strong as hell

[Structo]

I had to look that one up.

Although I have seen that type of joint before, I didn't know what it was called.

[img648]http://www.craftsmanspace.com/sites/def ... _joint.gif[/img]

Does that take any special tools or do you do it on a table saw?

[cbass]

You could make it on a saw.But router bits make it much easier

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... ock_anchor

I have the drawer lock bit I need to get the miter lock too.

[Structo]

Nice, one of these days I'm going to buy a router.

[cbass]

Nice, one of these days I'm going to buy a router.

You'll need a table alsobto run the lock bits.