Circuit Board Drill Bits?

[jamme61]

I've noticed sometimes it takes a lot of heat to undo solder on my circuit board (xtc, egnater, mesa) is it possible to drill it out the solder? if yes, what size bit is best? Thanks for info

using a wes51 conical tip, should I be using a flat tip?

[Cantplay]

You have to be very careful if they are through plated holes.

The extra heat might be because of lead free solder.

John

[vibratoking]

I would not recommend drilling as a removal method on a PCB! Ever. For any reason. Try melting some solder onto the tip/joint. It will come right off. I can't think of a worse removal method, except for a hammer.

[chief mushroom cloud]

use a 1.5mm chisel tip, and flux

[jamme61]

sorry for my ignorance on this stuff. I'll try The chisel tip. Thanks

[Gaz]

For pcbs, I CE the component is out, I like the super pointy tip, and then use it to Shiv's in some desk leering braid. This way there's no extra heat (from the mass of a large tip), and the solder just wicks right up into the braid.

[jamme61]

For pcbs, I CE the component is out, I like the super pointy tip, and then use it to Shiv's in some desk leering braid. This way there's no extra heat (from the mass of a large tip), and the solder just wicks right up into the braid.

I did try the braid but it would't wick it up? I also lost part of the trace doing it this way, so I gave it up.

[Aurora]

Add some fresh solder and then use good quality solder wick. For normal PCBs with pads 0.1-0.15" or larger, use a clean chisel tip, - .05-.075" or thereabouts. Quick heat transfer isthe clue, - long slow heat from a too small tip helps a lot in getting loose tracks. A 50W iron is minimum in my opnion. These day I use a 80 or 110W Weller at appx 375C, sometimes more for larger or more rugged components.

[Gaz]

I agree with last post, but I like the tiny conical tip because it only heats up the hole and not the entire pad.

[Aurora]

I do find it a lot more efficient to quickly heat the whole pad, unless it is a very large joint. Also,- there are some quality differences in solder wicks. I've tried some that was real crappy. And - a felt pen with good flux might also help the sucking action, - wipe it thin on the joint and the wick... solder wick looses it's performance with age... exposure to air destrys the embedded flux over time......

[Structo]

I never had much luck with soldering wick.

I know some guys really like it but I find a solder sucker a much better tool for removing solder from PCB holes or eyelets.

My choice of suckers is the Edsyn Soldapullt III Model PT109
I should own stock in this company as much as I recommend these.....
http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=PT109

[img:465:79]http://www.edsyn.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/pt109lp.jpg[/img]


Don't waste your money on the DS107 shown below as it does not stand up to much use.

[img:450:79]http://www.edsyn.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/ds017lp.jpg[/img]

Those smaller solder suckers like Radio Shack sells are worthless for tube amps.

[jamme61]

yea that's my solder sucker, the big blue one. mine says ds 017. I should buy some new solder braid, mine is radio shack and about 10 years old. I ordered a new solder chisle tip too. My Weller goes up to 850 degrees but I run it around 650 degrees, is that to high? Thanks again

[vibratoking]

650 should be right on and the tip type should not be critical. I think you are fighting with ROHS solder which melts at a higher temp. Get some liquid solder between your tip and the work. It will transfer the heat better and allow you solder/desolder much faster.

[Reeltarded]

I have had success with using the component lead as the tip with a sink clipped on above it. I push toward the board til it moves then pull.

Adding fresh solder to the tip is the big key though.

PCB!! Grrrrr!! -shakes whole body-

[jamme61]

thanks guys, adding a little solder helped a lot.