Advice on refin...

[tribi9]

I know the reranch forum might be a better place to ask but im sure someone here might know...

I have a guitar being refinished in reranch Daphne blue with 2 cans of Nitro clear after. One will be tinted and the other one just the regular clear. For a subtle effect should it go tinted first then clear or should they go sandwiched?

Cheers

[ATL Strat]

I know the reranch forum might be a better place to ask but im sure someone here might know...

I have a guitar being refinished in reranch Daphne blue with 2 cans of Nitro clear after. One will be tinted and the other one just the regular clear. For a subtle effect should it go tinted first then clear or should they go sandwiched?

Cheers

I've done the same combo. I did color, clear, tint. I'm glad I did it this way because the tint on the blue turned everything green, so I ended up sanding it back a bit. Without the clear under the tint, I would have probably messed up the color. Once you're happy, you could sandwich the tint with the clear so it doesn't "wear in in reverse". Good luck!

[Structo]

Be careful with the tinted clear, it can get yellow real quick. (or green!):shock:

Usually a light misting coat is all that is needed.

I would give the color coat a few misting coats to lock down the color.
Then a light mist of tint until you get the effect you want.
Then proceed with the clear lacquer.

Also, it is recommended that you use two full cans of clear coat to provide a buffer for the wet sanding and polishing.

I can't count how many times we have seen a person who only used one can of clear, that sanded into the color coat or worse, down into the primer or wood.

Unless you are going for a vintage relic look, spray two full cans of clear lacquer and hang the body up somewhere safe, dry and warm for a full month to allow the lacquer to get hard enough to wet sand and polish.

Remember when you wet sand the lacquer, you remove about 1/3 of the depth working up through the grits.
Depending on the amount of orange peel you have on the final coat, dictates what grit of paper you start with.
If it is smooth I usually start out with 800. Then onto 1000, 1500, 2000.

If you have a bad pebbly, orange peel looking surface you could start with 600, but be aware it cuts fast.

The idea is with each succeeding grit, you wet sand until the previous sanding scratches are removed.
A good way to judge that is to sand one way with the first grit, then sand with the next grit perpendicular to the last way.
This allows you to see the scratches from the previous grit.

I was a long time member over at ReRanch and have built six guitars using ReRanch products.
Very high quality colors and clear lacquer, for sure.

[tribi9]

Thx so much for your input Structo.

A member over Offsetguitars is doing it for me. I requested the tinted clear but wasnt sure how much it would take to change the color. I didn't want it to go too green. We ordered 1 clear and 1 tinted so I think im going to have to order a third can of clear.

This is the guitar in question btw....

[IMG768]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n271 ... 7ccc4e.jpg[/img]

[johnnyreece]

Just going to second what Tom said, as another ReRanch member.

[sonicmojo]

I used Surf Green with regular Reranch nitro clear. Within just a year it was turning more green on its own, Light on any additional tint, the Reranch tinted is really tinted IMO.