NSD - New shop day!!

[xtian]

After four coats of Tung oil.

[xtian]

Making good use of table saw, belt/disc sander, and drill press. What a delight. Saved me $5 plus shipping!

Stepper bit chattered on the big, 1.125" hole; guess I'll back it with wood next time. But the octal-to-noval plate I made is making me happy--all the holes are in exactly the right place!

TIP: A fine-tip, wet-erase marker (for writing on whiteboards) is great for writing on the chassis--nice and dark, then wipes right off.

[Structo]

You can always put that patch of metal inside the chassis for a bit cleaner look.

[xtian]

Tom, why you always gotta be such a ball buster?!?

Oh, wait…that was a friendly comment, wasn't it?

[Structo]

Sorry didn't mean to criticize your work.

[amplifiednation]

The dovetails look great!

Having tools is awesome, especially when they work well and do what you want them to.

I really like having a drill press. I can't remember if i used the step bit in it though. I like to have my hands out of the way when using that bit.

Try LPS gold cutting fluid when drilling or countersinking metal. That stuff really makes a difference. I've been using it non stop since I got it 6 months ago.

[xtian]

More, wonderful uses for idle drill presses: Platter splatter! Poke holes in your dead hard drives that contain personal information. No, it's not milspec, but if someone wants to spend thousands of dollars extracting what data they can from this drive, let them try.

[xtian]

Getting more comfortable with the dovetail jig!

Here, I am turning a maple kitchen table into a pair of head cabs.

[xtian]

A have a little play in my cheap table saw, and a little wiggle in my cheap dovetail jig, and this means my boxes may shift a little out of true when glued and clamped. Suggestions on achieving right angles when gluing?

[Bob S]

Big ass wood clamps.
Or mark a wood board the correct size & square then nail down 4 strips to hold the cab while it sets. Not ideal, but works for me.

[Structo]

How about a saw blade cover plate that is only as wide as the blade?

Probably wouldn't last long but it may help.

[xtian]

Boxes glued up pretty true this time. Just paid more attention to precision.


What do you like to use to apply varnish (e.g., Tru Oil)? I tried lint-free cloth last time, but my hands got fatigued trying to hold the cloth in the right shape for streak-free application.

Foam brush?

[xtian]

Man, there are TOO many rookie mistakes to learn in the wood shop. For my next trick, failure to sand off the Titebond glue before staining. Crap! Do I have to sand it back down?

[Structo]

Bummer about the glue marks. I've had trouble with that before myself.

Actually most of the time I rub in the Tru Oil with my hands.

If you want to use a cloth, use old T shirt material because it will have less lint in it.

If you don't want it on your skin then wear surgical gloves.

I find the warmth from my hand and the rubbing action heats the oil a bit and allows it to flow better.

Remember the secret to Tru Oil is many thin coats.
Try to aim for smooth with no runs or lines in the surface as you make your final passes.
If you apply it too heavy it will take a long time to dry.

On a cab like that I may put on at least six coats.

Here is a trick, take a new bottle of Tru Oil and poke a hole in the foil seal.
Like a 16 penny nail hole if you will.

This will help keep the oil from drying around the top.
Then just tip it over the wood and pour about a quarter sized puddle.
Then rub it with the grain.

Then when you are done with the coat, wipe off the top and threads, screw the cap on and
store it upside down, that will prevent the crusties from forming on the neck of the bottle.

If the wood is open pore like mahogany or swamp ash, you should fill the grain before staining or finishing.
I have used Bartley's, super glue and epoxy.
For a figured open grain wood or other exotics, I like epoxy.
I use the 5 minute stuff and use a credit card to move it around into the grain.
Let it dry well then block sand with 320 or so with the grain. This leaves the glue in the pores.

You can sand wet Tru Oil to make a slurry then use a credit card to squeegee it into the grain as well.
I tried that once and didn't really care for it.

After about three or four coats of Tru Oil finish, let it dry over night and then take some 0000 steel wool and burnish the surface.
This will get rid of any dust or other debris and provide a smooth surface to apply the next coats.
Use a tack cloth and lightly brush the surface off to remove any dust.

When you get enough on let it dry good to harden.
Now you can either steel wool it for a matte finish or after you steel wool it, burnish the surface briskly with a piece of old denim and it will shine up.

Hope this helps.

[xtian]

Thanks, Tom. Awesome advice.