converting a ceriatone SSS from #4 spec to #2 spec?

[bigwebb83]

So I took the plunge and bought one of the first runs of this amp from ceriatone. I've posted some clips over on tgp with it and while it sounds good, I'd like to tweak it. The amp can be very trebly, even with the treble at 10 o'clock and the high filter on the second to last selection. I do play with "mild" bright on (switch in the up position), but I feel like I loose some snapiness if I cut the bright switch completely. I'd like to see what is involved with converting this amp to SSS #2 specs. Nik at ceriatone told me to change the pots on the treble bass and mid controls on the front of the amp and then convert the presence control to more of a two rock style "cut control". I'm wondering what you guys think? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[mhartman]

For full #2 specs, you would have to add tubes, which would be fairly involved and there might not be room. Changing just the tone stack over would be fairly easy though. Try playing with the filters off, rock, deep and bright on. Is it still too trebly? It shouldn't be. What speakers are you using? You might want to try some celestian G12-65s in an open back cab.

You can also try reducing the amount of negative feedback going to the speaker jack by adding a 6.8k resistor at the jack (so you have the 4.7k plus the 6.8k). This should beef up your bass a bit as well and it is an easy mod.

#4 is a good platform. I don't think trying to convert to #2 would be easy. You should be able to tweak this one to put a smile on your face.

[M Fowler]

SSS #4 is available for $125,000.

http://www.maverick-music.com/vintage-a ... g-singer-4

[groovtubin]

So I took the plunge and bought one of the first runs of this amp from ceriatone. I've posted some clips over on tgp with it and while it sounds good, I'd like to tweak it. The amp can be very trebly, even with the treble at 10 o'clock and the high filter on the second to last selection. I do play with "mild" bright on (switch in the up position), but I feel like I loose some snapiness if I cut the bright switch completely. I'd like to see what is involved with converting this amp to SSS #2 specs. Nik at ceriatone told me to change the pots on the treble bass and mid controls on the front of the amp and then convert the presence control to more of a two rock style "cut control". I'm wondering what you guys think? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

THe second feedback cap from the cathode follwer back to second stage cathode is a BIG deal. You see either a .22 or a .47.. I blv the .22 was WAY BRIGHTER than the .47 in mine, your`s may differ!! And i dunno if Nick even used that circuit, it`s at the SSS thread.. Has the cath follower mixer for the reverb as well.. Also, see that 56K across the plates down near th edriver stage?? THAT will REALLY make it brighter, i know he`s a good tech, but i`d start there FIRST myself, B4 chopping the amp all to heck! Go UP in value..see what happens....do you have a resistor decade box? SO helpful!

jim

[M Fowler]

You could change the presence control to a resonance control which adds bass.

Do you use the deep switch.

Mark

[10thTx]

The amp can be very trebly,

Just a thought to consider. IF you are actually meaning the amp sounds too trebly because the treble sounds harsh, you can try using an "enhance" cap across the plate resistor on the triode going into the LTPI.

I have done this on my D-style inspired amps and have been very happy with the result.

I think on my amps that perhaps I had some slight oscillation in the upper frequencies that was resolved using this approach. I can NOT tell any loss of highs but the highs do sound significantly smoother to me. It has also seemed to help improve slightly with the "blooming" feature on my amps

It's like throwing a top that is wobbying (oscillating) & it does not sustain long nor does it spin smoothly. In contrast, a top that is not wobblying (oscillating) and is spinning smoothly sustains longer. I don't know what is happening electronically with that cap, but from an auditory tone standpoint, the analogy seems like a reasonable one, IMO. I have smoother treble without a loss of treble that I can tell.

Here is a brief sound clip of one of my amps with that cap in it:
http://www.soundclick.com/player/single ... i&newref=1

Just something to consider that can be easy tried carefully using insulated alligator clipped wires and some caps.

With respect, 10thtx

[67plexi]

I’ve read that the components used in this type of amplifier are really important. What is inside my SSS?


We use a combination of parts custom-made for us to our specifications (power transformer, output transformer, choke, high-temperature / low-ESR electrolytic capacitors, inductors, custom Alpha potentiometers) and those used in the original amplifiers (Vishay/Dale RN65 precision metal film resistors, 1W carbon film resistors, SBE 6PS polyester film capacitors, high-quality ceramic disc capacitors, Belton tube sockets, Alpha potentiometers). We prefer high-quality enclosed Cliff (built in the UK) jacks to the open-style Switchcraft jacks used in the originals and many clones. Finally, we occasionally use NOS components from

our vast surplus parts collection in locations they work well and complement the voicing or enhance the performance of the amplifier.

From left to right:
V9, V8, V7, V6 – 6L6GC power tube
V5 – 12AX7 / ECC83 (phase inverter)
V4 – 12AX7 / ECC83 (reverb / preamp mixer)
V3 – 12AT7 / ECC81 (reverb driver)
V2 – 12AX7 / ECC83 (reverb send / return)
V1 – 12AX7 / ECC83 (preamp gain stages)

One issue, the new Dale resistors are nothing like Dumble used in the past
Next the treble pot Dumble used in the preamp are CTS 2-35 250K Made in USA not china.
The real SSS has V-1 & V-2 Preamp gain stages. Next the tubes in the SSS make the amp real Dumble's all made in USA.
Go to the files section and look what resistors are used; Mepco/Electra for most all the 100k and Piher's for the rest.
All is not lost you can sell your SSS by name only and buy a real clone made in the USA.
http://www.bludotone.com/highplainsdrifter.htm http://www.welagenamps.com/#sss

[bigwebb83]

I’ve read that the components used in this type of amplifier are really important. What is inside my SSS?


We use a combination of parts custom-made for us to our specifications (power transformer, output transformer, choke, high-temperature / low-ESR electrolytic capacitors, inductors, custom Alpha potentiometers) and those used in the original amplifiers (Vishay/Dale RN65 precision metal film resistors, 1W carbon film resistors, SBE 6PS polyester film capacitors, high-quality ceramic disc capacitors, Belton tube sockets, Alpha potentiometers). We prefer high-quality enclosed Cliff (built in the UK) jacks to the open-style Switchcraft jacks used in the originals and many clones. Finally, we occasionally use NOS components from

our vast surplus parts collection in locations they work well and complement the voicing or enhance the performance of the amplifier.

From left to right:
V9, V8, V7, V6 – 6L6GC power tube
V5 – 12AX7 / ECC83 (phase inverter)
V4 – 12AX7 / ECC83 (reverb / preamp mixer)
V3 – 12AT7 / ECC81 (reverb driver)
V2 – 12AX7 / ECC83 (reverb send / return)
V1 – 12AX7 / ECC83 (preamp gain stages)

One issue, the new Dale resistors are nothing like Dumble used in the past
Next the treble pot Dumble used in the preamp are CTS 2-35 250K Made in USA not china.
The real SSS has V-1 & V-2 Preamp gain stages. Next the tubes in the SSS make the amp real Dumble's all made in USA.
Go to the files section and look what resistors are used; Mepco/Electra for most all the 100k and Piher's for the rest.
All is not lost you can sell your SSS by name only and buy a real clone made in the USA.
http://www.bludotone.com/highplainsdrifter.htm http://www.welagenamps.com/#sss

who says those clones are any closer to the real thing just because they are made in the usa?

[groovtubin]

I’ve read that the components used in this type of amplifier are really important. What is inside my SSS?


We use a combination of parts custom-made for us to our specifications (power transformer, output transformer, choke, high-temperature / low-ESR electrolytic capacitors, inductors, custom Alpha potentiometers) and those used in the original amplifiers (Vishay/Dale RN65 precision metal film resistors, 1W carbon film resistors, SBE 6PS polyester film capacitors, high-quality ceramic disc capacitors, Belton tube sockets, Alpha potentiometers). We prefer high-quality enclosed Cliff (built in the UK) jacks to the open-style Switchcraft jacks used in the originals and many clones. Finally, we occasionally use NOS components from

our vast surplus parts collection in locations they work well and complement the voicing or enhance the performance of the amplifier.

From left to right:
V9, V8, V7, V6 – 6L6GC power tube
V5 – 12AX7 / ECC83 (phase inverter)
V4 – 12AX7 / ECC83 (reverb / preamp mixer)
V3 – 12AT7 / ECC81 (reverb driver)
V2 – 12AX7 / ECC83 (reverb send / return)
V1 – 12AX7 / ECC83 (preamp gain stages)

One issue, the new Dale resistors are nothing like Dumble used in the past
Next the treble pot Dumble used in the preamp are CTS 2-35 250K Made in USA not china.
The real SSS has V-1 & V-2 Preamp gain stages. Next the tubes in the SSS make the amp real Dumble's all made in USA.
Go to the files section and look what resistors are used; Mepco/Electra for most all the 100k and Piher's for the rest.
All is not lost you can sell your SSS by name only and buy a real clone made in the USA.
http://www.bludotone.com/highplainsdrifter.htm http://www.welagenamps.com/#sss

who says those clones are any closer to the real thing just because they are made in the usa?

Just turned a quad reverb into #002 with eric johnson fuzz into a tube screamer, it`s quite good, and VERY convincing, ( sounds LOT like erics SSS at the rig YT) long as you HAVE the CORREWCT tweaks, anything is possible! What`s cool is it`s really left up to YOUR interpretation.

my best, jim@Omegaamps

[amplifiednation]

SSS #4 is available for $125,000.

http://www.maverick-music.com/vintage-a ... g-singer-4

I don't think its available anymore!!!

[AtomCap]

SSS #4 is available for $125,000.

http://www.maverick-music.com/vintage-a ... g-singer-4

I don't think its available anymore!!!

it was just a matter of time before someone with some Coin bought the amp, Any smart builder could buy it, Reverse engineer it , enjoy it for a little bit and sell it off, continue to cash in on the circuit which is probably what will happen to #4.....

What I thought was most interesting was the spelling on the back of the amp "AMLIFIERS"... No P, for $125,000 you get no P....

taylor did a great job replicating the headbox I must say..

[Aaron]

I think Jelle's amp is already the clone of #4.

[Structo]

If that amp didn't have the provenance that it does, I would almost have to say it is a fake.

I am surprised that HAD let the silk screen mistake into a production amp.
But perhaps even he didn't realize the mistake until it was built and gave Henry a good price on it.

[AtomCap]

If that amp didn't have the provenance that it does, I would almost have to say it is a fake.

I am surprised that HAD let the silk screen mistake into a production amp.
But perhaps even he didn't realize the mistake until it was built and gave Henry a good price on it.

Was sharing similar thoughts on its authenticity. Some interesting information is within those photos maybe some folks have or have not seen yet Wont spoil the suprise.

[212Mavguy]

please 'scuse the intrusion, my .02...

Just took delivery yesterday of my C-tone SSS ordered delivered sans tubes. Running it through a slotback bluesbreaker sized ex- Peavey Mace 2/12 combo cab loaded with a pair of JBL g125's in series, 16 ohms, closed off the chassis slot in front, fabbed back baffles 3 1/2 inch slot in line with VC centerlines all the way across. Lots of other 2/12's 1/15's, a Leslie G27 and a 2/15 to pick from as well.

V6-V9 sweaty Svetty 6l6gc's 3%match, 37mv reading on my DVM.

V5 Raytheon long black plate rectangular getter 12ax7, strong tight triode match

V4 NOS RCA labeled Tungsram 12ax7

V3 NOS Sylvania black full plate 12at7 double mica milspec

V2 VOS Hoges labeled Tungsram 12ax7

V1 VOS Tung Sol 12ax7 longplate rectangular getter halo

I'm getting the tones that the circuit is designed to deliver and then some, and with the range and interactivity of the tone controls plus the use of my Hilton volume pedal in front, it's like having a rhythm channel plus three distinctly different solo voices/channel settings to go with it. With a C-lator in the loop (VOS Siemens longplate 12ax7) this best can easily deliver great tones at smaller room venue volumes, but why play this topology with the master cranked down to nearly nothing when the original was designed to be played loudly? No attenuator needed with C-lator, but without I'd not hesitate to use my Weber Mass 100 to take things down a few clicks, no need to choke the chicken to the point to where it won't squawk...modest volume, modest attenuation settings are the way to go. My MASS custom ordered balanced line out, with Vol TMB tonestack between the amp and the main board, player operated on the MASS front panel, slick.

Mod this circuit to another? Nuts! Mine is awesome to play through, decent tubes, appropriate speaker/cab, appropriate bias settings and front panel knob settings, nothing wierd, ... all happy here! It is incredibly adaptable to many different styles, the jazz switch makes acoustic/electrics, hollow and semi hollowbodies sound especially sweet.

It's one thing to read about something and have it sound really cool in print, it's a whole new ball game when one shows up on your doorstep, completed or a trickle of parts arriving over months filling a BOM wish list being assembled with great persistence and effort, fired up for the first time...after sizeable monetary cost to have that privelege... you'd better know what your buying in the first place and do your homework first, because it sure is going to be exactly what it is when it shows up, and if it doesn't fit in right because you failed to have an appropriate application for it in your little limited world of guitar playing it's your fault, not the circuit's.

This was a great lesson to me, this particular dose of a "new unique" to me to originally own and for the first fireup personally voice beforehand from my modest collection of cabs and tubes, and I do really love this amp! The success did not come without setbacks and surprises, I had used 6bg6ga's with adapters with great results in my OTS and HRM 50w heads, not so with the SSS

Don't even think about trying adapted 6bg6ga's with this amp they won't work with it at all. Found out the hard way but no harm done, at anything but very low volumes...oscillation city and worse. Great for a fire alarm...the sonic equivalent of someone experiencing a grand mal seizure, and every bit as frightening to be around.

I'm admittedly a cork sniffin' tube snob weenie but couldn't care less whether the half power switch works by triode strapping the 6l6's or not, it's a warmer, bubbly sound result, very approprate to lower volumes, evocative of smaller, more intimate venues with their wealthy patrons, wives, or cosmetically enhanced trophy dates. and .... Surprise! The knobs still work to fine tune it right where you want it at half power.

The uniqueness of this circuit greatly rewards the player who actually knows how it operates in order to quickly adapt to get the best mix of the unusually interactive control settings for various venues, IMHO. It deserves to be played out.

respectfully submitted,

Gary