Want to say hello and thanks for all of the great information available on this site.
I've owned an Express build for a couple of years now and cannot stop playing the amp. So of course that means the quest is on to see about a Liverpool and eventually a Rocket. I've always thought about building an amp, but never really took it too seriously. I can already tell this could be the next addiction for me
This will be my first amp build so looking forward to having fun and learning a lot along the way. Working on an RJ kit (via Jenks in the for sale section). Pacific Trannys.
As a quick background, I have a degree in Electronic Engineering but integrated circuits had already taken over most if not all of the subject content while I was in school, so no real world tube history/experience to draw from.
I'll plan to post pics along the way and am open to all feedback about technique or build quality improvements I can make. First pic included, I'm already looking for tips on how to nicely get multiple heater wires into the octal sockets......
thanks again,
sean
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welcome to the madness... you are among good company and the finest collection of technical wizards that ever twisted a wire. Looking forward to the build progress reports!
Sean,
Glad to see your getting started on your amp. Looks like your off to a good start. I have finished one of the three I am building. No better feeling than playing an amp you put together. Keep posting as you build.
ok first question, i've wired up the heater wires to my output tube sockets (pins 4/5 using the 2 separate 6.3V leads from the PT). Did a quick resistance check between pins 4/5 on the tube sockets to see if I have any errant solder shorts.
Doing a simple resistance check, it's showing a short.
So, should I be getting a 0 Ohm reading across the 6.3V leads from the PT? Are those two heater leads electrically coming from the same place on the PT, and then the two leads are used to handle the current load?
Ok, another day down and some progress. Please let me know if you see anything out of place or flat out wrong
Also, I'm used to seeing pictures of the filter caps stacked on top of each other, with the top row centered on top of the bottom set of 3, rather than in the grooves between caps, and conserving precious real estate inside the chasis.
Is there a reason why you wouldn't put the top row offset from the bottom and in the groove to reduce the height of the stack?
thanks everyone,
sean
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lions den wrote:I'm used to seeing pictures of the filter caps stacked on top of each other, with the top row centered on top of the bottom set of 3, rather than in the grooves between caps, and conserving precious real estate inside the chasis.
Is there a reason why you wouldn't put the top row offset from the bottom and in the groove to reduce the height of the
Yes I had to offset the caps in order to get them to fit into the chassis. Stack them and do a dry run before you glue. Put a straight edge on the chassis and make sure it clears the caps.
Nice, but I think Ken put the gold band on the resistor on the presence control the other way, may not work right....(just kidding) I offset the caps on amp 2 and 3 I am building to make them fit better. They were too tall in the Rocket I built and I had to shim the chassis. Mallory caps in Liverpool #1 fit better so I did not have to offset them. Someone may have a good reason why not to , but I can't think of one.
you can see in some of Ken Fisher's builds that he actually runs the screw up from the bottom to mount the power transformer so that there is more room in there...
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