1X12 cab dimensions for G1265

[telentubes]

I'd like to build an open back Dumble style cab for a single G1265 and wonder if there are box dimensions and/or recommendations from others who have done the same. The dimensions for the oval port on the rear panel would be great as well. I've been searching for hours and can't seem to find any info.

This will be for a recently finished 3rd. gen. 50Watt, which I have been running through a THD 2X12 cab (sounds awesome) but want the option of a 1X12 as well. I also have a EV12L which I will build a Thiele cab for eventually, but right now I want to focus on a cab for the G1265.

Thanks

[amplifiednation]

pm me, I can help you with some dimensions

[bluesfendermanblues]

I'd like to build an open back Dumble style cab for a single G1265 and wonder if there are box dimensions and/or recommendations from others who have done the same. The dimensions for the oval port on the rear panel would be great as well. I've been searching for hours and can't seem to find any info.

This will be for a recently finished 3rd. gen. 50Watt, which I have been running through a THD 2X12 cab (sounds awesome) but want the option of a 1X12 as well. I also have a EV12L which I will build a Thiele cab for eventually, but right now I want to focus on a cab for the G1265.

Thanks

Have you seen the combo cab layout?

[telentubes]

bluesfender,
Thanks so much for those plans. I'd seen them before, but could not find my way back to that link, after hours of searching (forgot to bookmark). I've actually had to research cab design on my own, outside of the golden parachute of TAG, and that has been a good thing. I've kinda landed on a design (dependent on what I learn from Taylor, and subject to change), and will post a pic when finished.
Thanks you guys.

[telentubes]

PM to Taylor
Thanks

[amplifiednation]

A few of you guys have asked, I am happy to share some of the designs that i do...

For example, some of the 1x12 cabs that I do are 17" tall, and I can adjust the width from around 21-24" and they rock!! The best thing to do is just scale the port to the cab width. So for my 24"x17" cab, the port I do is usually 11 x 6.5. I like to do a full 12" depth to give some extra box volume, but you can obviously go less deep.

This cab in the pics I finished last week, it's 21.5 x 17 x 12, which I think will complement the G12-65 speaker well. The port is 10 x 6 3/4.

I do the bigger cabs for EV type speakers that have a little more girth.

Don't stress about the port size too much, once you open up the back the sensitivity of the cabinet decreases (vs closed back) and you are much more prone to have a chance at a good sounding box.

GET GOOD WOOD!!!! That will make all the difference. I've locked down some of the best wood I can find and my cabs sound better than any production models I've found.

Good luck!!!

Thanks,
Taylor

[telentubes]

Thanks Taylor,
Beautiful work.

[jelle]

Looks like a real nice cab!

[katopan]

I like the P.A. bin handle on the top. Looks a bit different but would be comfy and will never break.

[rogb]

Like!!!!!

[NickC]

I like the P.A. bin handle on the top. Looks a bit different but would be comfy and will never break.

+1

Thoughtful design touches like that make it so much easier, and more secure, for a gigging musician loading out after a gig .... when you're tired. Excellent!

[amplifiednation]

Thanks guys.

You can stack any amp on top of that handle, regardless of the height of the feet!

I have one of these for myself and it is a breeze to carry around. Once I find a chrome handle that like it's all over for straps.

[CHIP]

Taylor,
Beautiful cab.
What type of wood do you use?
Have you ever made them with pine?

[amplifiednation]

Taylor,
Beautiful cab.
What type of wood do you use?
Have you ever made them with pine?

I use 3/4" 13-ply marine grade baltic birch. It's pretty much the standard when it comes to building top of the line speaker cabs. Anything less would be uncivilized!

There are different grades of it but I have worked hard to get my hands on the best I can find for our purposes. I currently use B/BB clear face Russian stock and am extremely happy with the results.

I have a somewhat decent source for translucent pine but the baltic is just so easy to work with and it doesn't gum up my tools. It also is much more durable.

I hope that helps!!

Thanks
T

[merkaba22]

A few of you guys have asked, I am happy to share some of the designs that i do...

For example, some of the 1x12 cabs that I do are 17" tall, and I can adjust the width from around 21-24" and they rock!! The best thing to do is just scale the port to the cab width. So for my 24"x17" cab, the port I do is usually 11 x 6.5. I like to do a full 12" depth to give some extra box volume, but you can obviously go less deep.

This cab in the pics I finished last week, it's 21.5 x 17 x 12, which I think will complement the G12-65 speaker well. The port is 10 x 6 3/4.

I do the bigger cabs for EV type speakers that have a little more girth.

Don't stress about the port size too much, once you open up the back the sensitivity of the cabinet decreases (vs closed back) and you are much more prone to have a chance at a good sounding box.

GET GOOD WOOD!!!! That will make all the difference. I've locked down some of the best wood I can find and my cabs sound better than any production models I've found.

Good luck!!!

Thanks,
Taylor

Hey, just found this post and I wonder if you could help me out a bit in view of Dumble's oval openings ... I have a vintage MB 2x12 vertical slant back cab w/EVM 12L's with a "thiele" bottom portion and upper open portion (separated by a full-size divider) in which the bottom section has interior dimensions of 22w x 11h x 13d that I would to convert by closing off the thieve "slots" and having an oval back arrangement.

I there a formula to apply to the dimensions of the lower section to calculate the dimensions of the oval cutout?