I like the material used for this faceplate
a sort of mirroring faceplate
http://www.wattkins.com/node/16146
[img:640:480]http://www.wattkins.com/files/wattkins/ ... panels.jpg[/img]
[img:640:480]http://www.wattkins.com/files/wattkins/ ... s-back.jpg[/img]
[img:640:360]http://www.wattkins.com/files/wattkins/ ... colors.jpg[/img]
Kagliostro
Faceplate making material
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
-
Kagliostro
- Posts: 549
- Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2009 12:09 am
- Location: Italy
Re: Faceplate making material
Can you explain this a little better?
The forum link you posted does not work if you aren't a member.
Those face plates look really nice, I'd like to know how you did it.
The forum link you posted does not work if you aren't a member.
Those face plates look really nice, I'd like to know how you did it.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!
Re: Faceplate making material
That's brilliant! I've used waterside decals and clear coat. But the lexan is a great idea!davent wrote:Waterslide decals on the back of the Lexan, clearcoat, paint.
dave
Re: Faceplate making material
I bit on it and setup an account. It looks like they are able to flip these face plates over and paint them. They are "rear engraved".Structo wrote:Can you explain this a little better?
The forum link you posted does not work if you aren't a member.
Those face plates look really nice, I'd like to know how you did it.
-
Kagliostro
- Posts: 549
- Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2009 12:09 am
- Location: Italy
Re: Faceplate making material
to have access to the forum you can register for free
(that isn't my cup of tea)
as Brentm say the faceplates are rear engraved
Kagliostro
(that isn't my cup of tea)
as Brentm say the faceplates are rear engraved
Kagliostro
Re: Faceplate making material
Reverse etch is the same way we we do our panels for the Badger 18, 30, 35 and handwired amps, same way they did the Marshall plexi amps as well. I definitely recommend a more permanent and liquid paint though for the cleanest look. Also you should use and acid brush and Alcohol to clean the etched area if it was done on laser for a more crisp look. My only bitch about plexi panels besides they can crack is it can be a challenge to make things tight enough but not too tight o cause deflection. Also we use an adhesive tape that works great to mount. Much better than sprays.
I personally prefer aluminum anodized and laser off the anodize. It is much more industrial but more costly and not as easy to run prototypes. If your chassis isnt too long( I think 24" is the limit) you can use Alumamark as well, it looks great and any laser house can etch it for you pretty cheap if you supply Corel Arwork.
[img:400:335]http://www.cesco.ca/Supplies/images/ALU ... photo1.jpg[/img]
I personally prefer aluminum anodized and laser off the anodize. It is much more industrial but more costly and not as easy to run prototypes. If your chassis isnt too long( I think 24" is the limit) you can use Alumamark as well, it looks great and any laser house can etch it for you pretty cheap if you supply Corel Arwork.
[img:400:335]http://www.cesco.ca/Supplies/images/ALU ... photo1.jpg[/img]
Re: Faceplate making material
Making a faceplate for my 18watt. 1/8" plexi--asked local frame shop for scraps, and they sold me two pieces cut to order for $5!
Water slide decals printed on inkjet (mirror image), shot with clearcoat, and applied to reverse side of plexi.
Will shoot with gold paint tomorrow.
Photo looks hazy from front because the white protective film is still on the plexi. You can see the vertical lines in my waterslide decals. I hope these edges aren't too visible after painting. We'll see!
Water slide decals printed on inkjet (mirror image), shot with clearcoat, and applied to reverse side of plexi.
Will shoot with gold paint tomorrow.
Photo looks hazy from front because the white protective film is still on the plexi. You can see the vertical lines in my waterslide decals. I hope these edges aren't too visible after painting. We'll see!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Re: Faceplate making material
Just answered a PM regarding this and and my experience says if the decal edges are visible before you paint the color they'll still be visible after.xtian wrote:Making a faceplate for my 18watt. 1/8" plexi--asked local frame shop for scraps, and they sold me two pieces cut to order for $5!
Water slide decals printed on inkjet (mirror image), shot with clearcoat, and applied to reverse side of plexi.
Will shoot with gold paint tomorrow.
Photo looks hazy from front because the white protective film is still on the plexi. You can see the vertical lines in my waterslide decals. I hope these edges aren't too visible after painting. We'll see!
Looks good, like your design.
dave
Re: Faceplate making material
Finished my faceplate. Yes, all the flaws are visible, and it's not what I could call "pro". But it's a good DIY look, and as long as you stay back a few feet, it's beautiful!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Re: Faceplate making material
Repeat? Dont see the original, John.
Re: Faceplate making material
I repeated what I said in February 4 posts up LOLxtian wrote:Repeat? Dont see the original, John.
Reverse engrave on plexi is still the most professional way to do it.
Many laser shops will do it cheap if you give them full Corel artwork ready to go.
Be careful on what you use as a fill though since some paints will melt or craze the plexiglass. Or again the Alumamark is very nice
Re: Faceplate making material
xtian,
I've used home made waterslide's quite a bit printed on my inkjet.
I usually spray them with a coat of nitro lacquer to protect the ink from running.
But that builds thickness.
When I cut them out I use a real sharp razor and angle the cut so the edge is tapered.
Helps keep the edges less noticeable.
If you use a lazer printer, that ink is waterproof so you don't need to coat it.
But be careful when smoothing out the decal or you can rub the ink off.
I've put a lot of decals on guitars and pedals and the best way to hide the edges is to bury the decal in clear lacquer. Of course then you have to wet sand and polish the clear coat but it's not to bad to do.
I've used home made waterslide's quite a bit printed on my inkjet.
I usually spray them with a coat of nitro lacquer to protect the ink from running.
But that builds thickness.
When I cut them out I use a real sharp razor and angle the cut so the edge is tapered.
Helps keep the edges less noticeable.
If you use a lazer printer, that ink is waterproof so you don't need to coat it.
But be careful when smoothing out the decal or you can rub the ink off.
I've put a lot of decals on guitars and pedals and the best way to hide the edges is to bury the decal in clear lacquer. Of course then you have to wet sand and polish the clear coat but it's not to bad to do.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!