#102 Started. Checking in

[alvarezh]

I think Greg hit the spot. The 'leator should give it the final touch.

Cheers!

[boldaslove6789]

Yeah the D-lator really gives the #102 Ojai circuit a certain Girthy, sweet, fatness, & some oooeee gooeee, blooomy note thing to the overall tone of the amp.

I've been using this config on my Quinn #102/#183 and I'm really digging the results:

68 pF bright cap on the master volume, a .022uf cap to ground on the built in D-lator's Output (simulates the high end roll off of 2 7ft. RG-400 cables).

Telefunken smooth plates in V1 Clean & V2 OD. Amperex short plate ECC83 in the D-lator, and a Ge short grey plate 12ax7wa (with perfectly matched triodes) in the PI

4xWinged C 6L6's in the power amp biased @ approx. 32 mA

[alvarezh]

I have watched your videos Greg, that amp is a killer and your playing too. Thanks for the details, I am going to try them.

Taylor, I suggest to keep the caps information given by Greg handy, they could be useful to try when you get your 'leator.

All the best.

[vibratoking]

68 pF bright cap on the master volume, a .022uf cap to ground on the built in D-lator's Output (simulates the high end roll off of 2 7ft. RG-400 cables).

Structo asked this previously and I never saw an answer. Is that 7ft from amp loop out to Dlator input and and 7ft from Dlator output to amp loop in? With nothing/short in the send return loop of the Dlator? I guess if you put something in the Dlator send/return loop then the 7ft cable should be changed, correct? The reason I am asking is because I never found that magic to work with the stock Dlator. I made a resistance mod, as discussed in other threads, because my Dlator was way to dark. I am confused as to what exactly what others have noticed and/or done about this.

[boldaslove6789]

68 pF bright cap on the master volume, a .022uf cap to ground on the built in D-lator's Output (simulates the high end roll off of 2 7ft. RG-400 cables).

Structo asked this previously and I never saw an answer. Is that 7ft from amp loop out to Dlator input and and 7ft from Dlator output to amp loop in? With nothing/short in the send return loop of the Dlator? I guess if you put something in the Dlator send/return loop then the 7ft cable should be changed, correct? The reason I am asking is because I never found that magic to work with the stock Dlator. I made a resistance mod, as discussed in other threads, because my Dlator was way to dark. I am confused as to what exactly what others have noticed and/or done about this.

The 7 ft. RG-400 cables go from the Amps Send to the D-lator input, and the D-lator Output to the amps Power amp input return.

Then use regular low capacitance cables from the D-lators Send to the effects input, and the Effects Output to the D-lators Return.

If you don't want to have to use 7ft. cables from the amp to D-lator you can simulate the same high end roll off by putting a .022uf capacitor across the D-lators Input signal to ground.

You can either put it on a switch, or use multiple values on a rotary knob in a box like I did, or just leave it there permanently.

The .022uF cap seems like a happy medium for me, it's just enough to roll off the shrillness the 68pF bright cap has while retaining that certain smoothness effect.

[ToneMerc]

The 7 ft. RG-400 cables go from the Amps Send to the D-lator input, and the D-lator Output to the amps Power amp input return.

Then use regular low capacitance cables from the D-lators Send to the effects input, and the Effects Output to the D-lators Return.

Ditto to what Greg said here only ocassionally I will use a couple of 1.5' patches to the 2290. I knew I wasn't crazy when 2 others blindly could tell the difference with and without the D'lator and D'lator and RG400 cables.

TM

[vibratoking]

68 pF bright cap on the master volume, a .022uf cap to ground on the built in D-lator's Output (simulates the high end roll off of 2 7ft. RG-400 cables).

Thanks for clarifying. RG400 is about 30pF/foot. 14 feet is 420pF total. 0.022uF is 52 times greater than 420pF. What am I missing here?

[tubedogsmith]

The .022 sounds kinda big. I've put 270pf and 500pf on a 3 way switch before and the 500pf was more than enough to sub for the cords.

[boldaslove6789]

Sorry I meant .0022uf. No it's not equal to 2 x 7ft lengths of RG-400, it's quite a bit more. I think that's what i have the setting on my cap box. I'll have to look.

[Structo]

Taylor are you using a 68pf bright cap on the master?

If you don't have a Dumbleator yet you might want to reduce that some if your top end is a bit raspy.

Which reminds me, last time I saw Robben he wasn't using his Dumbleator.
He just had a few pedals on the floor.

So I wonder if he has snipped the bright cap or what?

I had a 47pf on mine which was a bit much.
I think I have a 30pf on there now.
.

[Structo]

Taylor, did you use a 68pf bright cap on the master?

[amplifiednation]

Yes I did use the 68pf cap on the master and the amp is very bright! I am going to bench the 102 tomorrow and see if I can quiet it down some. It seems noisier than it should be.

I have d-lator parts, just havent had the time to get a mouser order together to get a Hammond enclosure. Its the last piece of the puzzle. I am very excited for that build.

I may rework some parts of this amp with stranded Teflon vs solid core as well. I got a lot on my mind after the last build I did was super high gain and quiet as a mouse. I want to look back at some of my wiring.

[rogb]

Taylor, if you're building a stand alone Dlator, consider installing the bypass switch and the series/parallel option. It's very little extra effort but they are worth having on board.

[Structo]

I can concur about the bypass switch, very handy to have when something isn't quite right you can eliminate the D'lator with a flick of the switch to see if the problem is there or to compare tone with it and without it.

The parallel switch not so much, I didn't really care for it but it might be due to my effects more than the loop.

[Dr d]

Could someone clarify here. My understanding is that the master bright cap restores lost high frequencies lost through the Dumbleator.....so why do we want to attenuate the highs still further with high pf cables? What am I missing?