D-Lite assembly guide - First draft

[Normster]

Hopefully this will be enough to get you headed in the right direction...

http://bad-domain/DumbleLite/BuildersGu ... 0Guide.htm

BTW, if any of you experts want to take a crack at the power-up testing, feel free to post here. My checks are kinda crude.

[Bob-I]

The pics are a little dark and hard to make out. Otherwise they look ok.

BTW, one of the reasons that kit instructions are not included on many kits if liability. Without instructions it's just a bunch of parts. With instructions it's an amp and if someone gets hurt the seller can be at fault. Be careful.

[Normster]

Good advice. I guess I'll just post it on the net as a "how I built my D-Lite."

[fatcatefx]

thanks for the post norm! I have almost completed my build -- thanks for the heads up on the bulb limiter....put one together yesterday for testing. Wish I would have waited for the detailed instructions....it answers alot of questions that I had during the build.

you guys are doing a great job with this project kit!

-j

[Ed de Jager]

I just put the last wire in my Dlite this afternoon.But your builders guide will be of great help to future builders.
Can`t wait to hear it but i have to `till tomorrow.
Very curious how the dual bias works out.

Ed

[Robert]

Cool tutorial Normster. Surprising how it wasn't that long ago when this forum started and now anyone who wants the Dumble sound at a reasonable price can simply build one with a picture tutorial.

[Dave Lotek]

Thanks Normster for your many generous contributions. Your assembly guides are of great help and I believe everyone using them knows the dangers involved in amp building. I always trouble shoot with one arm behind my back, so if I touch something I shouldn’t, juice doesn’t go through my heart.

[Buschman]

Fine job & without a doubt will be a big help. Also a great selling point. I am almost suprised that you will post it here for all to see without buying a kit. I really wish I could play one of these to see if it will work for me.
I guess it's next in line after I finish the Liverpool.

[ayan]

Hopefully this will be enough to get you headed in the right direction...

http://bad-domain/DumbleLite/BuildersGu ... 0Guide.htm

BTW, if any of you experts want to take a crack at the power-up testing, feel free to post here. My checks are kinda crude.

Hi Normster,

Looks good to me. Now, I meant to ask this before but forgot to. A few weeks ago, I had a chance to try Billy Yates' D-lite and liked it. However, I noticed that there were a couple of things I didn't quite understand:

1. The master bright cap was either too large (in value, small physically) or perhaps a faulty component, but the thing is that the volume control came on very quickly and the tone was very bright with the master other than way up.

2. The wiring is such that the bass control is wired like Dumble amps when in "Jazz" mode -- i.e. the input and middle lugs are not shorted together. That does keep the bass content in check at "normal" settings, which may be a desireable thing to some, but makes it -- to me -- more difficult to dial in the bass, since the pot only begins to work more noticeably after 2 PM or so.

I am merely curious regarding the reasons behind the above mentioned choices. The kit looks great, and I think it's a very cool thing to offer it to others the way you guys do.

Cheers,

Gil

[Normster]

Thanks for the generous comments. Very much appreciated!

Gil, I'm not sure which layout Billy used since his was one of the first kits delivered. The current layout doesn't include a bright cap on the master. (Did he maybe use the 1uF tantalum on the master instead of the presence?) As for the bass pot wiring, I guess I misinterpreted the circuit when I removed the R/J switch. Billy told me about the "mod" but I still haven't updated my amps (or the layout). (I was wondering why the bass needed to be at 3:00 )

[ayan]

Thanks for the generous comments. Very much appreciated!

Gil, I'm not sure which layout Billy used since his was one of the first kits delivered. The current layout doesn't include a bright cap on the master. (Did he maybe use the 1uF tantalum on the master instead of the presence?) As for the bass pot wiring, I guess I misinterpreted the circuit when I removed the R/J switch. Billy told me about the "mod" but I still haven't updated my amps (or the layout). (I was wondering why the bass needed to be at 3:00 )

Using a 1UF cap in the master would short the thing out, which would explain the bahavior I observed when I played Billy's amp. Mileage will vary, but up to maybe 30pF is fine on a 1 Meg pot in the master positition.

Yes, when the amp is in "Rock" mode, the bass pot is wired as a variable resistor, just like Fenders, Marshalls, etc. Simply shorting the middle and input lugs on the bass cap will result a much better taper on the pot, and a thicker tone as well for lower settings. For what it's worth, we also tried a .01uF midrange cap (instead of .047uF) in Billy's amp and liked it.

Cheers,

Gil

[Aharon]

Hopefully this will be enough to get you headed in the right direction...

http://bad-domain/DumbleLite/BuildersGu ... 0Guide.htm

BTW, if any of you experts want to take a crack at the power-up testing, feel free to post here. My checks are kinda crude.

Well..thanks Normster,after going over the buid instructions I got the urge to build one.I have 95% of the parts in my spare parts bin,the only question is I have a PT that used to belong to a Bogen CH35...they have a voltage doubler and run 2X7868s plus 3X6Au7s............
So I think I'm ok for 3X12Ax7s and 2X6V6s.......what I'm iffy about is : can I take the A+ from the first node,meaning the voltage doubler node?

Thanks for any help.
Aharon

[Aharon]

I got the answers at the BrownNote forum....didn't know about that forum..............thanks.
Aharon