Ceriatone Dizzy 30

[M Fowler]

Yes using NOS tubes really makes a big difference unfortunately I find it impossible to buy them.

It's fun when an amp comes together so you can enjoy playing through it.

Mark

[milkyBK370]

So, I made a start on mine tonight. Wil post some pics when I have something other than a bare chassis to show you!

[M Fowler]

Yeah we don't like stinking bare chassis unless it's silk screened control labelled

Take your time and I recommend that you pay attention to Nik's wiring in his photos they did a great job of routing wires and I wish I would of had my laptop next to me when I built mine to refer to.

I don't mind figuring out my own wiring but they did a very neat job.

Mark

[Diablo1]

I built my Dizzy 30 with a few mods. I also thought it was way too bright, so I used pull-switch volume pots on both channels that switch the bright caps in or out. I didn't like the tone of the stock cross line master volume, so I changed it to the dual pot Larmar style. That was a huge improvement. I installed a Vari-watt from Skip's circuits and scaled the whole amp. The Vari-watt, for this amp, really isn't very useful. The Larmar MV is all I need. I'm using vintage EL84 pulls and a NOS Amperex Bugle Boy EF86. A friend built the finger jointed cabinet from 3/4 inch baltic birch ply and I covered it. I ordered the circuit board unpopulated so I could do the soldering and swap some components. The transformers are from Bob Woods - Transformer Design and Supply, who supplied the original Matchless DC30 transformers.

[IMG:640:480]http://i56.tinypic.com/1zqby8o.jpg[/img]
[IMG1200]http://i40.tinypic.com/200blmg.jpg[/img]
[IMG1200]http://i44.tinypic.com/zjyzhz.jpg[/img]

[Structo]

Boy, there is a lot going on in that amp.

Looks like a fun build.

[M Fowler]

Very nice amp and I like the cab too. I wouldn't mind putting in the Lar-Mar MV. The TDS transformers are very well built I run a custom 18w Marshall set in my 18w Marshall head (tremolo).

Tom this amp is so easy compared to a Dumble it isn't even close and can be built with components I have in stock while the Dumble I still haven't got all my parts after all this time. Freaking parts hogs.

Mark

[playonit]

I built my Dizzy 30 with a few mods. I also thought it was way too bright, so I used pull-switch volume pots on both channels that switch the bright caps in or out. I didn't like the tone of the stock cross line master volume, so I changed it to the dual pot Larmar style. That was a huge improvement. I installed a Vari-watt from Skip's circuits and scaled the whole amp. The Vari-watt, for this amp, really isn't very useful. The Larmar MV is all I need. I'm using vintage EL84 pulls and a NOS Amperex Bugle Boy EF86. A friend built the finger jointed cabinet from 3/4 inch baltic birch ply and I covered it. I ordered the circuit board unpopulated so I could do the soldering and swap some components. The transformers are from Bob Woods - Transformer Design and Supply, who supplied the original Matchless DC30 transformers.

[IMG:640:480]http://i56.tinypic.com/1zqby8o.jpg[/img]
[IMG1200]http://i40.tinypic.com/200blmg.jpg[/img]
[IMG1200]http://i44.tinypic.com/zjyzhz.jpg[/img]

The Larmar MV sounds interesting.... where can I get hook up info on it??

[Diablo1]

The Larmar PPIMV uses a 250 KA ganged dual pot. I removed the stock two 220K grid leak resistors, and I connected each pot wiper to ground with a 2.2M resistor. When the MV is full on, the grid leak resistance is the same as stock. I'll post up a drawing when I get a chance.

[Structo]

This is the Lar Mar MV.

[playonit]

The Larmar PPIMV uses a 250 KA ganged dual pot. I removed the stock two 220K grid leak resistors, and I connected each pot wiper to ground with a 2.2M resistor. When the MV is full on, the grid leak resistance is the same as stock. I'll post up a drawing when I get a chance.

That would be great.... I can see it on the board but can't make out the detail on the pot in your image...

Thanks

[Diablo1]

OK, here's the schematic for the Larmar PPIMV and the layout I used:

[IMG1600]http://i41.tinypic.com/2hftbwp.jpg[/img]
[IMG767]http://i55.tinypic.com/5chveg.jpg[/img]
[IMG1200]http://i43.tinypic.com/minhqt.jpg[/img]
[IMG1200]http://i42.tinypic.com/1zcgx7b.jpg[/img]

[playonit]

OK, here's the schematic for the Larmar PPIMV and the layout I used:

[IMG1600]http://i41.tinypic.com/2hftbwp.jpg[/img]
[IMG767]http://i55.tinypic.com/5chveg.jpg[/img]
[IMG1200]http://i43.tinypic.com/minhqt.jpg[/img]
[IMG1200]http://i42.tinypic.com/1zcgx7b.jpg[/img]

Thanks for that... I'll give it a go........

[playonit]

Finished my head cab today. My first attempt at building one... dovetailed the cab and added some Tolex... had no problems with covering until the recessed area above the control knobs what a bear... which has me thinking about a redo... for the most part pretty happy about the ease of it.. only thing left is to paint the bottom panel Piano Black Lacquer .. I tried Luthierwnc's rubber feet tip.. worked well for a nice clean look..

[Gaz]

Really nice!

FWIW, I just replaced the "Larmar" master with a VVR type circuit that only scales the power tubes and PI. It sounds better because the PI fizz less noticeable (because you can hear the power tubes breaking up too), there's no loss of bass, and no loss of overdrive. Scaling the whole amp was not sounding too good for me when the preamp tubes got down too low.

I will say that the improvement was not much over the Larmar, and it'll definitely be better in the DC30 than the cross-line crap.

[M Fowler]

Very nice looking amp

Mark