best quality relays for channel switching?

[Mickey_C]

I know that switching the signal path can be noisy... but can't it be mitigated by using "make before break" relays, and the most silent, fastest switchers available? Also by putting a cap on the coil?

Can anybody recommend what the "highest quality" relays for this purpose, cost no object? After I see the $1Million space shuttle versions, I might come back to earth, and ask for "reasonably priced", but for now I'd like to just know what's the best.

I realize that shunt muting is probably the preferred way to switch channels... but I'm hoping to not have to have discrete amplifier sections to do it with, as I usually required. I'd like to be able to reconfigure the circuit path as necessary.

Thanks,

Mickey

[chief mushroom cloud]

Mick
I just designed two circuitboards for a Neve console (here in L.A.)
We use the Omron G6A relays in all of the designs (in SSLs, old Harrisons, and all the Flying Faders systems we built at Martinsound)
They're good up to 250VAC 1A (plenty for tube signal path) latching and non-latching
Mouser has them....
Just haywire one in to test....put a reverse bias 1N4001 and a .1uF 250V ceramic cap across the coils, and give the actuator voltage it's own return current path back to power supply GND

email me for a partial sch of this Neve Insert relay circuit

[Mickey_C]

Thanks - mail sent!

[David Root]

I've been testing out the G6L and G6J, and I was concerned about reliability ("Made in China"). They certainly are not expensive! Thanx, Chief Mushroom Cloud, I must be on the right track, and thanx for the silencing tip.

[Tonegeek]

I just finished an amp and am using NEC Miniature Low Signal DPDT 12V relays (1028 ohm coil, 9v min to trigger) The part number is 551-ec2-12nj from Mouser. They are really tiny. I like them so far. I only use a reverse diode and in this amp there is no switching noise. The reason I chose these relays is they use very little current and you don't need any resistor for your status LED because the coil resistance is just about right when hit with 12 volts to limit the current to the LED. I am not sure about reliability so since they are so small, I put an extra one onboard wired up and ready in case one of the others fails. Of couse it is very tempting to use it for mods that I am already considering!

[Normster]

I'm using the NECs as well. As for reliability, just mount the relays in a 16-pin DIP socket (Mouser 575-199316) and carry a few spare relays with you. I haven't had one fail yet and also find them to be very quiet when wired as Chief suggested.

[Tonegeek]

just mount the relays in a 16-pin DIP socket (Mouser 575-199316)

I regret not using sockets this go round but will add that to the "lessons learned" for this project.

[Mickey_C]

They just came... and I am having a spinal tap moment (the stonehedge debacle).

These buggers are TINY!

Short of reverting to wire wrap in the chassis, how the hell do you attach a decent wire to them?

Mickey

[Funkalicousgroove]

PCB

[Mickey_C]

Yeah, I can see how this is going that way.

So, who's got the PCB dumble kit?

[Funkalicousgroove]

I am actually looking into having some pre-made PCB's. You can also do it the hard way:

Mount turrets to your board, and use an IC socket with long leads, bend the leads out and down so they will fit into the turrets, solder them, and solder your leads to the turrets BEFORE you snap in the relay.

[Mickey_C]

Okay, I've done this.

First I tried soldering directly to the relays. I killed the first two. They really don't like being soldered.

So, are there any with similar specs that are heavier duty?

[chief mushroom cloud]

vero board (w/ the plated pads)
Twin Industries
I think Mouser has it.

[Mickey_C]

If I went that route, why not just use the Weber channel switch kit?