Cabinet Building quesiton

[surfsup]

Too bad there's not a cabinet building forum here, but how does one cut the angle in the wood used to cover the trannies/tubes on front of head cabs?

I am thinking of building some sort of jig with the belt sander upside-down and an angled surface to "slide" the piece down to get an angle. Any tips?

[Reeltarded]

I would normally rip it with a band saw.

Take the part to a local woodshop, and tell the guy you need an angle ripped. Easy!

[amplifiednation]

i think a sliding mitre saw might do it. I have run a few valences through my table saw and gotten a good result although the saw didn't seem to like it that much. You will need a zero clearance throat plate if you do that and a vertical fence extention

[martin manning]

I'd pick the table saw with a fence extension that is 2-3" less than the panel height, and maybe do it in two passes to get the smoothest possible result and minimise the sanding. A zero-clearance throat plate isn't really necessary as long as there is always support for the remaining portion of the panel, or you could clamp a stick to the back of the panel that can ride along the top of the fence extension.

[dartanion]

I use a table saw. Super easy to do.

[M Fowler]

I use a table saw and tilt the blade, one pass through does it.

Mark

[surfsup]

Okay. I'll try the table saw. I have plenty of wood left. The piece was 10'

I cut the 45s with the tablesaw but since this was a visible piece i didn't want to screw it up. Btw, home depot said they could do it as well if someone doesnt have access to a tablesaw or bandsaw.

[davent]

Nice sharp handplane, I don't have access to those power tools.

dave

[selloutrr]

All these idea work.

The bandsaw leaves a good amount of sanding as the blade has flex.

The table saw works well, but as pointed out to do it safely you need to modify the fence and most portable table saws aren't stable enough to get a clean cut.

Some radial arm saws will make the cut at that angle but you still need to build a jig to hold the board upright to safely cut the material.

Hand sanding and hand tools will get the job done but it's easy to over do it or end up with ripples.

The safest and most accurate way I've found is to use a sliding double bevel miter saw such as the Dewalt DW718.

[mike9]

If you have a left tilting blade saw like a Delta you can set the angle of the blade, crank it all the way up and run the back of the cab against the fence. I built a tall auxiliary fence just for that purpose. There's a little bit of wood left on one end that needs to be snicked off by hand, but a sharp hand plane will take care of that. If you don't have a small hand plane then wrap some 60 grit around a block and have at it. A 12" blade table saw would be perfect, but I don't own one. I don't angle the speaker part of my Fender style cabs like the originals just the angle for the chassis. For that you'd need to pre cut the pieces before assembly.

After that you'll need an appropriate round over bit for your router.

[surfsup]

tablesaw question, I have a 10" blade...will it get high enough? I guess I will just have to try it. Next weekend coming up I'll do it, shouldn't be hard to figure it out.

[martin manning]

I assume that you're talking about the front panel for a Trainwreck-type cab, which people here call the valance, I believe. If so, the beveled face is only about 1.5", which shouldn't be any problem for a 10" saw.

[M Fowler]

I use a cheap Delta 10 inch table saw, cheap fence with a sacrificial wood fence over it. Run that panel right through, it cuts good with very little cleanup from saw tooth marks if you go slow.

Mark

[amplifiednation]

If you have a left tilting blade saw like a Delta you can set the angle of the blade, crank it all the way up and run the back of the cab against the fence. I built a tall auxiliary fence just for that purpose. There's a little bit of wood left on one end that needs to be snicked off by hand, but a sharp hand plane will take care of that. If you don't have a small hand plane then wrap some 60 grit around a block and have at it. A 12" blade table saw would be perfect, but I don't own one. I don't angle the speaker part of my Fender style cabs like the originals just the angle for the chassis. For that you'd need to pre cut the pieces before assembly.

After that you'll need an appropriate round over bit for your router.

I think this answers a different question. This is a good way to cut the angle on a Fender style shell, but surf was asking just about the bevel cut on a Trainwreck style valence.

I recommended the zero clearance throat plate just so the piece is supported through the cut. If you don't have one you can make one pretty easily or Martins suggestion of tagging a support piece to run along the fence was a good one. The bevel doesn't leave a lot of wood to run along the table and you don't want it getting in between your blade and plate, that will ruin the cut.

Also...who's done this cut through plywood? I have a 1.5hp 10" contractor saw and it has a tough time with this cut through 1/2" ply

[AJD]

I have a 10" blade...will it get high enough?

10" blade will be fine. Generally you should not try to make the finish cut in your first pass. Make a rough cut to within 1/16" of your finished dimension and then make the finish cut with a blade specified for cross cutting and having 80 or more teeth. Make some practice cuts on scrap wood first until you get the swing of it.