Express done...need help calming the hisss

[amplifiednation]

Guys,
I'm about 80% there on this Express build. I just realized this morning that I wired the OT wrong...had to jumper and heatshrink the green wire. Sucks. I thought that going in directly from the board to the power tubes would be better than looping around the back of the tubes. Either way those wires have to cross heaters, this way i figured they don't cross B+. Is that gonna work?

Thoughts on lead dress? I'm really trying on this one!! I don't like the power tube grids going under the heaters...is that ok? I've got the heaters lifted a bit.

Also, the bright switch has the middle lug connected on the layout but Franchescas shots show connection to the right lug. Which one is correct?

[martin manning]

I'd run that spliced plate wire around the back like Ron's layout shows (and cross the twisted heater wires at 90 degrees) to get it away froim the grid wires... it will be in phase with the green one. The grid wires crossing the heater wires is okay since it is at a right angle, which will minimize the coupling, and there will be common-mode cancellation. Re the bright switch, there is a note on the layout about the Francesca arrangement being different, and saying the layout is correct. It's looking good!

Guys,
I'm about 80% there on this Express build. I just realized this morning that I wired the OT wrong...had to jumper and heatshrink the green wire. Sucks. I thought that going in directly from the board to the power tubes would be better than looping around the back of the tubes. Either way those wires have to cross heaters, this way i figured they don't cross B+. Is that gonna work?

Thoughts on lead dress? I'm really trying on this one!! I don't like the power tube grids going under the heaters...is that ok? I've got the heaters lifted a bit.

Also, the bright switch has the middle lug connected on the layout but Franchescas shots show connection to the right lug. Which one is correct?

[amplifiednation]

well i guess it's pretty obvious by now that i did NOT read the notes on the layout! that just cleared those up for me, I can't believe had i read them i would have known about the OT wires. I didn't even guess at it, i did some research, and still missed the mark

Martin, thanks for the response. I move that spliced line back where it was behind the power tubes. I knew that would be too easy to run it direct.

I was pretty bummed that I cut that wire short as it's pretty much one of the only things that can't be fixed! I hope splicing it back together doesn't negatively impact that connection. I'm excited to get the rest of the amp together.

My Les Paul is in the shop but should have it back just in time!

[M Fowler]

Looking good Taylor

[T Wilcox]

Hey man
Nice looking build there.
Where did you get the Electrolytics? I just put together BOM for an Express mostly from Mouser but the only Lytics close to spec I could find are Nichicon brand
Thanks in advance

Todd

[Cliff Schecht]

Nichicon makes fantastic capacitors, some of the best in the industry as far as volume commercial products are concerned. I use them all over my amps including in the HV power supplies without any issues whatsoever. They usually have better pricing than other manufacturers too..

[T Wilcox]

Thanks cliff that's good to know
You are right, it will be about $50 cheaper to use them rather than Spragues.

Todd

[amplifiednation]

Which electrolytics are you talking about? the 25 and 10uf's? Most of these parts I got in a trade, but i think mojo has some of those spragues for sale. They don't have a huge selection of values though.

i just got some more of the wiring done...i'm hoping there is a chance this build will fire up with little problems this week.

i can't wait to mess around with the stackpole. that thing is the devil

[T Wilcox]

I was refering to the large Spragues 20mf on top
Assuming 40mf on bottom 3 ea.

I was searching 22mf on Mouser and found none but after checking your pic found the 20mf for an outrageous $17 ea. Then found them at Hoffman for abt $10 which is better but still more than twice the Nichicon. Still pondering

I am trying to build this amp at the lowest cost possible without too much compromise.

Thanks

Todd

[amplifiednation]

They have them at AES too, but they are $11 for the 20s, $13.50 for the 40's.

[Cliff Schecht]

Atoms are good caps, but they are not great caps and aren't justifiable for the price IMO. I think the only reason they still make them is there is enough demand from tube guys and other people who work around vintage equipment to keep them in production. They are great for replacing old paper electrolytics with a modern equivalent (they usually fit well in these places) but you will almost never see them in new manufacture stuff that isn't hand-built by a boutique builder.

[T Wilcox]

Cool guys thanks for the tips

Todd

[amplifiednation]

I got the pots and sockets all wired up. i still have a few things to do.

if anyone sees any improvements i can make to lead dress, please by all means chime in.

[Lonely Raven]

That really looks fantastic. I have that same Blue G10 material I'm going to be using for my X10 build.

[T Wilcox]

Looks good man

I am not the expert on this subject but have heard/read to keep the twist on the heater wires nice and tight as this will eliminate some noise.

Todd