chassis on eBay...

[Tonegeek]

I finally found a chassis that should work for my 6 tube Dumble (20x6.6x2.5). There are more to be had:

http://cgi.ebay.com/TWO-20-Tube-amp-cha ... dZViewItem

he has a 17" one too just click "View sellers other items".

whit

[heisthl]

The 6.75" dimension will be a real challange - you will definitly have the board next to tubes and pots with output jacks over top.

[fp2000]

isn't short cable runs better anyways?

[Bob-I]

The 6.75" dimension will be a real challange - you will definitly have the board next to tubes and pots with output jacks over top.

I like to use a 2" wide board. Saves a ton of room.

[Tonegeek]

It will be a challenge, but I think I can make up some room with a smaller width board (maybe get by with 1-3/4") . As far as jacks, switches, should not be too bad since this chassis is 2.5" high. I think Fenders are only slightly over 1" high. My cable runs may be shorter in one sense, but I may have to stretch out lengthwise, which will make for longer runs in another sense, so not sure I am gaining anything there. I can also go with can caps if i need more room inside too (although I have planned for and already purchased board mounted caps ). I can't decide if I am going tubes up or down. I am worried that the fastening points will not handle a Fender style mounting so I may be limited there, although with a slight mod to the chassis I could do it either way.

[Normster]

You'll be fine with that chassis. It's only 1.4" narrower than a Dumble. Move the tubes 1/2" towards the back, make the board 2" wide (as Bob said), and move the board 1/8" closer to the tubes. Everything else will fall into place from there. With the tubes closer to the back of the chassis, you may want to run the heater wires into the corner rather than have them above the tube sockets.

[Tonegeek]

You'll be fine with that chassis...

yea, I think so too. i worked up my main board layout and got all the components (HRM included) on a 12" X 2" board. I already had PS caps so their larger size makes it a bit more crowded as do the RN65 resistors. Xicon caps would have made the layout a bit smaller. A couple of conponents from the onboard Dumbleator are on the board too, but I will mostly following a "Normster" layout with the rest using terminal strips and the tube, etc. I am using Marshall trannys, so have extra space for the supplies in that area since the trannies are both "Outties". Will decide about the relay tranny later whether to go in or out. I originally was going to put the relays on the board too or above it, but will instead put them on one 1" board close to the pots. I figured the amp will be easier to tweak if I keep the relays off board. I was also thinking what if a relay goes bad and I can't find an exact replacement? It would be a lot easier to build a new relay board than try to deal with an onboard relay swap. Also, I am not sure until I hear this amp what I want to be foot controlled. I am planning on doing just the OD and PAB for sure, but will have 3 relays just in case I need to switch say the dumbleator or mid boost (treble shift?). I got most of my parts last week so I am really getting fired up to start assembly. In a way I am glad the chassis is not the norm for a Dumble. Otherwise, I would have been tempted to use somene elses layout. It has forced me to get my act together with my paint program so that printing is acceptable and to scale (I am using Paint Shop Pro). I will post a layout when it is close to being completed.
whit

[heisthl]

I wouldn't worry about relay availability as long as you're using the standard coil,com,nc,no form factor, but they are hard to solder/desolder. One method is to use single turrets instead of eyelets for the relay holes and solder a socket onto them - the height of the turrents allows you to snake a cable tie through the pins to secure the relay in the socket.