Express from scratch

[don]

some pics.....

[RJ Guitars]

Some Nice lookin wood and woodwork for sure.

I have made tens if not hundreds of 1/8" faceplates using my self feeding planar from Grizzly. I have also made made mountains of shavings and probably as many scrap parts as I have good faceplates. It seems like things get really touchy when the wood starts to get down to about 1/8". Getting anything thinner than that has been near impossible for me. There is an acoustic guitar builder not too far away from my home here and he says the autofeed sander is the ticket... not in my budget though.

I eventually found that I could cut 1/8 on the table saw pretty well but I have such a fondness for my fingers that I just don't do it any more.

Assuming you have a good 1/8" blank you can have the holes relieved so that the wood isn't as thick where the nut and washer attach, this works well but again requires some high dollar equipment.

So my solution was to have a pro wood shop make me up the templates in 1/8" and have the local graphics shop make up the faceplates. Then I had some extension nuts custom made by the local machine shop, just for the Alpha pots. I like Alpha pots and they are pretty cheap until you add the expense of an extension nut. Still the cost is tolerable, an easier fit than a PEC and more reliable than the Bourns that I've tried.

Many ways to get to where you are going but it would just be simpler if Alpha would add another 1/16" of threads to their pots...

It's good to have Lonely Raven back contributing to the forum again. That guy has a fierce talent with a laser engraving machine. In the first photo attached below, samples # 3, 4, 5, & 6 are some of his work. # 3, 4, and 5 are from wood that I planed down from trees cut here locally. The dark big grained wood is Russian Olive and the next two are New Mexico Juniper wood. Great work by Eric!!


McGinnis - Looking forward to watching your Wreck come together!!

rj

[selloutrr]

this might help

http://www.luthiersfriend.com/

[RJ Guitars]

That's kinda cool but tell me why is that wood workers tools always seem to have your hands somewhere in the proximity of some sharp or abrasive spinning object? Not necessarily a bad thing when you are cautious, sober, patient, and understand the hazard, but it is that patience thing that usually has me tempting fate. That is what I love about the auto feed planers, you can have your hands in your pockets during the critical part of the operation. Still, this little gem might be tempting.

rj

[M Fowler]

rj,

I own that 3rd plate from the top its on my Octal Rocket

Mark

[amplifiednation]

RJ...great info man. You have obviously been doing this for quite some time.

I got the sweetest piece of figured maple...I'm going to use it as a faceplate for a new cabinet for my rocket. I got some wood dye and am hoping I can flame it like the cabinet above! I have some art store 1/16th inch leftover for a new faceplate to match it. hopefully it comes out good.

[don]

i read a web article regarding dyeing wood to make the figures jump out...it's been a while so I forgot where I saw it....basically it's dyeing a darker color. then sanding it down almost to where the first tint is barely on the flames/figuring.....then a lighter dye on top.......i believe it is an article on a diy guitar website.....

[amplifiednation]

i got myself some flamed maple. thanks for the tips guys....my rocket got a total makeover today, new cab, new faceplate. there are some great tutorials about getting the flame to pop!!!

rockler kicks a** by the way, they have some cool wood.

[IMG768]http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz97 ... CF3987.jpg[/img]

[surfsup]

Very nice work!

[Richie]

I use 1/16" faceplate stock. I usually have quite a few. Plus can get them in many types of wood other than cherry. That way you can use the standard size pot bushings.

[amplifiednation]

thanks guys...I can't decide whether or not to put a handle on it. i probably will.

Richie, where do you find those blanks? I got some 1/16th at a local art store chain (like Michaels or something), but haven't seen any at a wood shop yet, nor have i seen a good selection of woods.

[Richie]

I've been getting them for many years from a lumber store on ebay.
I asked if he could cut pieces to the size i wanted. No problem.
I usually buy about 40 at a time. I think its less than 30.00

He sent samples of many other types of wood. Just have to ask them if you want something more exotic might cost a bit more. They are great to deal with. bought from them many times. i like to get a few then look through them to pick a grain or color etc.
Look at any of my finished amps and you'll see the faceplates.
He sent may types of samples. Beech,walnut,white and red oak, birch,maple,spalted maple.mohogany and a few more. I bought those and they were also cut to size. When you get them you just have to do some sanding,and then whatever finish you use.I had them just a tad longer,and trim them with my dremel.
I know they can also do 1/8" stock. They could probably do 3/32.

Here is the enail contact and ebay link. Tell them i sent ya, and they will probably know more about what you want.

I had to wait one time,till they did some cutting which was in a busy time of the season for them. I told them i wasn't in a hurry. I still got them in a couple weeks.


One great trick i use if you don't have fancy wood working tools. Mark the faceplate for the holes your going to put in them.
Then use one of those pointed stones on your dremel 3/8".
Set the dremel on high and start in the middle of the marked hole.
It will burn a hole right through the wood. For the smaller bright switch hole just burn through to the marked you have. And the switch holes are bigger,so just have to work till you get all the marked area.
I got one of the burner art gizmos at walmart. And do the burning of lettering. Do all this before you do the sanding and finishing.

Once you do a few it gets real easy. Trying to drill thin faceplace,they will almost always crack or split. Or you might use a forstner bit and tape.
Those bits are expensive IIRC. Thats why i buy a few extra. If you make a mislick you have others. Hope this helps.

Here is the name and email/ebay contact.

Kim
deer56hunter@netzero.net

http://cgi.ebay.com/7-THIN-QS-CHERRY-BO ... 3cb7d3721e

[amplifiednation]

Thanks man!! I would like to get a piece of maple with some figure to match the new cab...or something with quilt would be cool too.

[Structo]

For a great DIY finish I use Birchwood Casey Tru Oil finish.

It is a very easy finish to use.
I rub it onto the wood with my hands but you can use surgical gloves as well.
The heat from your hands thins the oil and makes it flow better.

This is not a true oil finish in that when it dries it gets hard.
It is made for rifle stocks and is very durable.

It costs about $5 for a 3 oz. bottle but you can buy bigger bottles.
But that 3 oz. bottle goes a long ways.
You will find it anywhere they sell gun supplies, it's in the cleaning supply area.

I usually do three coats a day and let it dry overnight, steel wool it then apply another 3 coats with a couple hours between coats dry time.

After about the third coat let it dry well then buff it with some 0000 steel wool.
I usually apply at least 6 coats but for a great deep look you can go with more, like 12 coats.

You can actually wet sand this and polish it just like lacquer if you wish.
I prefer more of a satin look so I usually end up burnishing it with pieces of old denim.

This is the best finish for the back of a guitar neck I have ever used.
If your hands tend to get sticky after a while on a neck then this is the finish for you.

Here is a picture of a Tele neck finished with Tru Oil.
Sorry for the quality but you can see it can be glossed up to a shine if you want it to.

[10thTx]

The trick with a planer is to send the board through in the right direction, take small bites, and wet the wood with mineral spirits.

That works! I've done that. I build my own cabs and guitars.

1/8" figured maple is prone to warping. Another option is to take figured maple veneer and place it over plywood which will be less prone to warping. That is what I did on the larger head in this picture. I also use velcro to attach the head panel for easy removal. It's never come loose.


With respect, 10thtx