why some instrument cables work and some dont

[Conway]

I have a mesa triple rectifier head and I recently purchased 2 new instrument cables. Neither cable works but my old ones do???Why is this...I took the new cables back and they work fine at the store on other amps. Why would my old cables work and not the new ones??? They are just plain ole $20 dollar instrument cables....The only thing ive noticed different about the cables is that all my older cables are indented where the plastic ring is on the jack ends and on the new cables the little plastic ring on the jack ends are made flush with the metal on the jack...I dont know if that has anything to do with it or not...Both cords I bought are different brands and even tried using Deoxit D5 but that didnt help it either....Does anyone have a clue about this cord issue..Again, my old cords work but the new ones dont...ALL instrument cables and these are problems lie in both the footswitch jack and guitar input jack.....There is no speaker to cab problem here.

[selloutrr]

Just thoughts off the top of my head.

Impedance - cheap cable / poor soldering

Diameter of the plug? - cheap cables often don't use neutrik or switchcraft jacks.

Grounding - how the cable is grounded to it's self.

It's possible the plastic ring is the issue but I highly doubt it. The way the jack and plug design works, If the problem was the plug fell out, then I would be inclined to say yes it's the fact the ring isolator is flush preventing the tip from locking in via pressure. but it shouldn't have anything to do with preventing the signal, the plug can only go so deep and it's designed to go all the way in.

[Phil_S]

Learn to roll your own. You can buy high quality cable and plugs for reasonable prices. Learn to solder -- making a cable is a great way to learn. Then you won't be prisoner to retail prices and you can have any length you want. For instrument cables, you want wire that has 90%+ shield coverage. I know Canare GS-6 is one. I'm pretty sure Belden makes one. It is likely there are others, too. (Don't fall for all that audiophool BS in the process.) Cable should run about $1/ft and good quality plugs maybe $2 each. Silent plugs with the switch will cost more. Free yourself from store bought cables!

[paulster]

Have a look at your input jack, or the output jack on your guitar.

Most connectors have the plastic ring pretty much flush with the barrel, so if you've been using older plugs that have a slightly different shaped tip you could find that the tip connector at the jacks has been bent back slightly and isn't making a good contact with the new plugs.

[Conway]

the only difference i can see in the plugs themselves is the plastic ring..My older cords, which work, have the plastic ring recessed. Where as the new ones , that dont work, the plastic rings are set flush with the rest of the plug. Its not an amp ive ownwd forever with the use of those cords. I just got the amp... Do they sell different type instrument cables with the plug ends being different like this, perteining to the plastic ring flush or recessed??

[Conway]

All this also is the same with any guitar I use, footswitch, and pedal

[rooster]

OK, skip plugging the guitar in - just plug the cable in straight, no guitar. Then, with the amp on, touch the end of tha cable. Does it buzz? If it does, then the cable is good from your hand to the amp - the problem is with the guitar jack. Do you have another guitar to try? Oh... I see you do. Wait, you run a pedal? skip that, too. Just go straight from guitar to amp - IF the cable buzzes in the amp that is. Now does the guitar work? Then add the pedal and try that. You need to try 1 thing at a time, that's the deal.

Really, what you are experiencing seems impossible, but I'll take your word for it.

So the amp is prolly good since its recent - look to the guitar or pedal for an explanation maybe. It's possible the tip of the open jack in the guitar is bent to the point that it bridges the tip and sleeve - that's my bet. Or your pedal is FUBAR. What do I win, BTW?