I recently received 3 CTS 300k pots, found one to be 312k , so today I changed the bass pot in my #183. It did the trick, the bass is alot more managable. Instead of keeping the pot at 9 o'clock and lower I'm able to put it around noon, with good results.
Also finally wired the R/J switch correctly.
A great amp!
CHIP wrote:I recently received 3 CTS 300k pots, found one to be 312k , so today I changed the bass pot in my #183. It did the trick, the bass is alot more managable. Instead of keeping the pot at 9 o'clock and lower I'm able to put it around noon, with good results.
Also finally wired the R/J switch correctly.
A great amp!
I am having issues with my r/j switch as well. Is it on/on or on/off/on? And how did you wire the center lugs? I was just looking at your build thread and I am baffled with how that switch is operating..... Maybe you can PM me Chip?
If you wired the on/off/on switch just as it is shown on the ODS amp (doesn't matter which one) the center position is just PAB.
It just puts that option on the front panel and does not affect the switch in Rock or Jazz.
CHIP wrote:I recently received 3 CTS 300k pots, found one to be 312k , so today I changed the bass pot in my #183. It did the trick, the bass is alot more managable. Instead of keeping the pot at 9 o'clock and lower I'm able to put it around noon, with good results.
Also finally wired the R/J switch correctly.
A great amp!
I may have to give that a try if I end up hating the mid cap.
I'm thinking a .02 may be better.
Something else you can do is use a lower V1a bypass cap such as a 1uf or .68uf.
Then put the 5uf cap you pulled out on a switch and switch that in parallel with the lower cap, then the total will be the two values combined.
Gives you a single coil and humbucker option.
Structo wrote:If you wired the on/off/on switch just as it is shown on the ODS amp (doesn't matter which one) the center position is just PAB.
It just puts that option on the front panel and does not affect the switch in Rock or Jazz.
I have that switch on my amp as well.
Thanks Tom. I'm lame - that explains why the PAB on the back panel wasn't behaving as I expected.
Structo wrote:If you wired the on/off/on switch just as it is shown on the ODS amp (doesn't matter which one) the center position is just PAB.
It just puts that option on the front panel and does not affect the switch in Rock or Jazz.
I have that switch on my amp as well.
Thanks Tom. I'm lame - that explains why the PAB on the back panel wasn't behaving as I expected.
This is why 124's switch on the back was disconnected (ground wire).. when it was upgraded a on off on switch was added so no need for the back panel switch
Tony
" The psychics on my bench is the same as Dumble'"
This is why 124's switch on the back was disconnected (ground wire).. when it was upgraded a on off on switch was added so no need for the back panel switch
Tony[/quote]
Tony, thats a nice bit of amp archeology, perhaps it could be noted on the layout.
angelodp wrote:This is why 124's switch on the back was disconnected (ground wire).. when it was upgraded a on off on switch was added so no need for the back panel switch
Tony
Tony, thats a nice bit of amp archeology, perhaps it could be noted on the layout.
Best Ange[/quote]
Yep
It took me a bit of time to figure out why the PAB switch on the back did nothing when I built mine a few years back.
angelodp wrote:This is why 124's switch on the back was disconnected (ground wire).. when it was upgraded a on off on switch was added so no need for the back panel switch
Tony
Tony, thats a nice bit of amp archeology, perhaps it could be noted on the layout.
Best Ange
i will do that
T
" The psychics on my bench is the same as Dumble'"
, so today I changed the bass pot in my #183. It did the trick, the bass is alot more managable. Instead of keeping the pot at 9 o'clock and lower I'm able to put it around noon, with good results.
