Fane speakers + Bright Express

[steviea55]

What are you using for the preamp tubes? I noticed from the pics you have the dampner on V1.

[rawnster]

What are you using for the preamp tubes? I noticed from the pics you have the dampner on V1.

On V1 I installed a Tri-Tube Tube Ring from Triton Audio. Here's the thread about it. https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.php?t=8561

V1: Jan 5751
V2: NOS Tung-Sol 12AX7
V3: GT 12AX7

I had a Tungsram in V1, but it went microphonic.

[rawnster]

If your going to use a ppimv either change the pi output caps to 0.1uf or alternatively change the 2.2nf cap to 10nf . . Both affect the tone but in different ways find which you like.

James, I'll give this a try. Looks promising. Thanks!

You could always try a ceramic cap across the input jack, 150-200pf. That should knock some of the ice off.

Tom, what frequency range would the ceramic cap affect?

[steviea55]

Try V1-12ax7, V2-12ax7, V3-12au7, This gives lower voltage and less gain. It gives a blues sound to my amp. let me know what you think

[rawnster]

Try V1-12ax7, V2-12ax7, V3-12au7, This gives lower voltage and less gain. It gives a blues sound to my amp. let me know what you think

Thanks stevie, but I've tried a 12AU7 in V3. Tried in V1 and V2 as well. I've tried just about every tube type combination available. The only reason I have a 5751 in V1 is because I currently don't have any extra 12AX7's that are not microphonic. I don't mind the gain at all. In fact I like it. It' just the brightness that bugs me. I pulled the chassis out the box again last night and chopsticked the pot hookup connections. I moved things around a bit, but it didn't do anything to lessen the brightness.

I read somewhere on this forum about changing out the PI resistors to 39k/1k, instead of the 10k/470R. I started to make this change but finally held off. I kept hearing Rooster in my head telling me "don't do it!".

Interestingly, I played around with the treble and mid pots a bit and noticed that their affect was about the same. That is, when both pots are off, and then I start to turn one of them, each of their respective added frequencies sound about the same. It's like the mid pot acts like a low treble pot. Make sense? ....and yes, I've checked how I've got things wired. It's wired correctly as compared to the schematic and layout found here on the forum. I can post pictures if needed.

anyway, this "bright" mystery continues....

[Jackie Treehorn]

I read somewhere on this forum about changing out the PI resistors to 39k/1k, instead of the 10k/470R. I started to make this change but finally held off. I kept hearing Rooster in my head telling me "don't do it!".

Ah ha! There's your solution, right there. Swap the two resistors! It is the best way to fill in the lows.

[rawnster]

I read somewhere on this forum about changing out the PI resistors to 39k/1k, instead of the 10k/470R. I started to make this change but finally held off. I kept hearing Rooster in my head telling me "don't do it!".

Ah ha! There's your solution, right there. Swap the two resistors! It is the best way to fill in the lows.

If my amp already has plenty of lows, will this mod simply muddy up the tone? I need treble attenuation, not bass addition.

[dartanion]

The Express and Liverpool are bright amps and a darker voiced speaker like some of the Fanes really helps to tame the brightness. It's a simple solution for the brightness issue. That, and they are great speakers.

[rawnster]

The Express and Liverpool are bright amps and a darker voiced speaker like some of the Fanes really helps to tame the brightness. It's a simple solution for the brightness issue. That, and they are great speakers.

Really? Fane who?

...just kidding. Fane speakers are the bee knees, Shiz Nit, tone-monsters.

[Jackie Treehorn]

I read somewhere on this forum about changing out the PI resistors to 39k/1k, instead of the 10k/470R. I started to make this change but finally held off. I kept hearing Rooster in my head telling me "don't do it!".

Ah ha! There's your solution, right there. Swap the two resistors! It is the best way to fill in the lows.

If my amp already has plenty of lows, will this mod simply muddy up the tone? I need treble attenuation, not bass addition.

I suppose you could dial in muddy, bright, lean, etc. The way I look at it is, bright is not bad when the amp's sound is balanced. I don't hear the mod as reducing treble so much, but balancing the response so that it is a good bright, focused mids, with some girth on the bottom. The stock PI sounds kind of weeny, to me, in comparison. It's a tighter sound than increasing coupling caps, too. All the Express clips I've posted have had this modification if you want to check it out. I use a 68k feedback resistor, too, though. Perhaps with 100k it might be muddier.

Everyone's ears are different, but I don't like extreme modifications to remove the brightness. A little here and there, sure, but it's got to be in the ballpark to begin with. I think most of us probably feel the same way or else one could just very easily put a cap or cap with resistor to ground or B+ after the 3rd stage and just eq it all out.

[M Fowler]

Darin which cabinet is suggested for the Express a large closed back 212 with Fanes or 4x12 Marshall style? To play at gig levels (loud).

Mark

[dartanion]

Darin which cabinet is suggested for the Express a large closed back 212 with Fanes or 4x12 Marshall style? To play at gig levels (loud).

Mark

I have 112s, 212s, and 412s loaded with different new Fanes, so it's a matter of tonal preference. I prefer 212 and 412 closed back cabs, however Rawnster and Hendo are digging the AXA 12 in a 112 open back/combo cab. I have 2 late 70s 1960As loaded with AXA 12s and they sound incredible, especially with an Express or Liverpool type amp. Great with my 2203s and Rocket type amps too.

[rawnster]

Ah ha! There's your solution, right there. Swap the two resistors! It is the best way to fill in the lows.

If my amp already has plenty of lows, will this mod simply muddy up the tone? I need treble attenuation, not bass addition.

I suppose you could dial in muddy, bright, lean, etc. The way I look at it is, bright is not bad when the amp's sound is balanced. I don't hear the mod as reducing treble so much, but balancing the response so that it is a good bright, focused mids, with some girth on the bottom. The stock PI sounds kind of weeny, to me, in comparison. It's a tighter sound than increasing coupling caps, too. All the Express clips I've posted have had this modification if you want to check it out. I use a 68k feedback resistor, too, though. Perhaps with 100k it might be muddier.

Everyone's ears are different, but I don't like extreme modifications to remove the brightness. A little here and there, sure, but it's got to be in the ballpark to begin with. I think most of us probably feel the same way or else one could just very easily put a cap or cap with resistor to ground or B+ after the 3rd stage and just eq it all out.

I appreciate the response, and I'll give the mod a try. I think what I was trying to say earlier is that mid control doesn't seem to be manipulating the correct range of mid frequencies. I don't want it reaching so high. It'd be nice if it were pinned at 500hz, and Q or fan out a few hundred frequencies on either side. Oh well. Perhaps replacing the .022 with a .05 (.047) mid cap would do that.

hmmmm