ODS Footswitch

[WhopperPlate]

Would this footswitch from CEDist work for an ODS amp? I'm looking to have OD, MidBoost or deep , and PAB switchable. Thanks!

"Footswitch Box - Replacement for Marshall, 3 Button with LED"

"Three button MarshallTMstyle with LED and 5 pin DIN plug. "

$17.95

[odourboy]

With a little bit of re-wiring (which is pretty simple with those boxes) those can work fine. I've been using those foot switches for a while.

[ChrisM]

The DIN cable only has 4 wires in it. Never understood that?

[Structo]

YEah, I use a two button version of that.
Like Brian said, you have to re-wire them.

I ended up using some high quality cat-6 cable I think it was.
Foil shielded and 6 conductors.
I used a 5 pin DIN connector.
With this setup, I could add another button switch if I wanted to.
Mid boost would be a nice footswitch to have.

[WhopperPlate]

Cool, thank you guys!

[David Root]

Thank you Brian, I thought I was going nuts with this thing, it does not appear to be wired according to the schematic. I measured the connections and I got Conductor 1 Green, Conductor 2 Yellow, Conductor 3 White and Conductor 4 Red.

That doesn't make sense because Green and Yellow in the one I opened up are on the same pin of one switch, which does not remotely resemble this schematic.

The schematic shows the DIN plug but it's not numbered. I assume we are looking INTO the plug from the business end ie you can see the pins, in which case the numbering should be CCW from right to left, 1 to 5, yes?

If that be right I'm going to rewire it so I can use it with Ampdoc1's triple relay PCB according to his wiring diagram no. 031609. See pic below

[Structo]

Does this help any?

[David Root]

Thanx Tom, I should have mentioned that my build is a Bluesmaster so the board connections are a bit different, especially the OD board, and I'm footswitching the brite swich and the PAB, so I'm schanging the specific connections on Ampdoc's boards.

What I have to do now is modify the footswich box wiring to accomodate Ampdoc's diagram, which is the opposite of the current box wiring in that the ground pin appears to be pin 1 (red wire) and pins 4,3, and 2 (respectively green, yellow and white, or was the Chinese assembler color-blind?

[Drumslinger]

Hey Tom,

did you keep the same LEDs or did you swap them out of that marshall footswitch?

[Structo]

The two button footswitch I bought from AES for my D'lite did not have LED's so I added them.

I should be getting a three button footswitch today with the LED's.

Hopefully I can get it to work with my amp without having to change the plug.

[jborders5]

I'm not a big fan of attached cables to foot switches as I've had a cable fail pre-gig in the past. I use the same 2 & 3 button foot switch, but modify them to accommodate a 5 pin din/midi jack. You have to watch what midi cables you buy since some of them only wire 3 of the conductors, but even the cheap HOSA cables carried at guitar center are the correct 5 conductor cables. It's a good option if your chassis is setup for the same din connector. I also found some cool brushed metal LED holders that match the switch color fairly well.

[img:800:531]http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/8914/dsc4777.jpg[/img]
[img:800:531]http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/6535/dsc4778.jpg[/img]

[Drumslinger]

oh crap!! i knew something was missing!! I completely forgot the footswitch side din connector!!!

[Structo]

Thats like the one I use with my D'lite.

I added some decals and then clear coated it with lacquer.

[David Root]

I am totally frustrated! If this footswitch's wiring works with a Marshall why can I not get it to work right with my Ampdoc relays?

Why does it need 5 conductors? It only has four and they work with Marshalls. Three positives and a common ground is four not five.

If I read the AES diagram right then pin four should go to the ground line on the Ampdoc relays. Pins 1, 2 and 3 are the three positives. Pin 5 is connected internally to pin 4 so doesn't enter into it.

But no matter what I do, I cannot get each one to operate independently. Two will, but are controlled by the third, which has to be on to allow the other two to work. If I get all three on at the same time, I can knock each one off in turn but I cannot get them to start up one, two, three in turn if they are all off.

That does not make sense. If someone could explain this to me I would greatly appreciate it. I am about ready to stomp this damn box into the ground.

[Structo]

Yeah, I didn't understand how that switch worked with the stock wiring so I just went from scratch and totally rewired it.

I think it is wired in series with the led's, it also looks like the led's light when the switches are open.

Do it the way Dumble did and you will be good to go.

Three switches, one B+ and one ground.