TW Express Switched Bright Caps on Volume Pot

[PCollen]

I am wondering which of the three switched options, 100pF, 500pF, or NONE, are most favored by those who play the Express at gig volume levels. In my current amp, a split-cathode (V1) JTM50 clone, I removed the 100pF Bright cap on the Bright channel volume control as I didn't care for it's effect at lower levels, and it was effectively out of the circuit at my gig levels.

[M Fowler]

I rarily use the bright switch on my Express.

[JamesHealey]

on an express with humbuckers always the 500pF selection for sure.

[Gibsonman63]

I have only had mine up and running for about three weeks, but I have done a few gigs with it already. I did a few tweaks to tame the brightness on my amp though.

I like the 100pF for the bridge pickup on my SG. The 500pF (430 in mine) sounds good for boosted leads on the bridge pickup on the SG if I have to play with another guitar player that can't find the volume knob on his guitar.

The 500pF sounds good for the neck pickup of either my SG or my Strat. For more of a jazz sound I can go in bypass or use the 100pF. Bypass makes nice round sounding octave riffs.

I haven't done much with the Tele yet, but I can imagine the 500pF would give you the Keef Riff-Hard Sympathy for the Devil sound.

[geetarpicker]

I definately run the 500pf position the majority of the time, however my original Express is darker than one would expect compared to most clones. The only time I consider the 100pf or off positions is when I run the volume less than 1/2 way which is rare. (correction, my original has 500pf/50pf not 500pf/100pf)

[funkmeblue]

I always thought yours had a 500pf and a 50pf

[geetarpicker]

I always thought yours had a 500pf and a 50pf

Ooops! You are correct, I have 500pf/50pf caps on the bright switch.

[funkmeblue]

ever try the 100. I like both the 100 and the 500 positions but was wondering if I would like the 50 better.

[dynaman]

I usually just stick a 330pf on the volume pot and don't think about it. Sometimes life is much easier when there are less choices.

Kinda like when I took the plunge into hifi and purchased a preamp that only had controls for balance and volume. Never missed the tone controls.

[KellyBass]

I'm with dynaman. I just ended up using a single switch with (i think) a 370pf polystyrene cap. I tell the players "off" is for single coils and "on" is for humbuckers.

[passfan]

I usually just stick a 330pf on the volume pot and don't think about it. Sometimes life is much easier when there are less choices.

Kinda like when I took the plunge into hifi and purchased a preamp that only had controls for balance and volume. Never missed the tone controls.

Why didn't you just build one ?

My Express is custom right now. My preamp tubes are a 6SN7 and a couple of 6SL7's. With my presence all the way down and the bright switch off for my bridge P-90 and the bright switch flipped to 500pf for my neck P-90. I'm running vintage Motorola and GE in the preamp and my OT's are vintage RCA 6L6GC blackplates. I have tamed it to the point that it takes pedals just fine , no extra noise at all.

[Richie]

if you use mostly one position for the bright, you could put in a switch DPDT and have a bright [pick which cap value you like] then for the other position use the fender bass boost or variation or tuned to your liking, of that circuit used in some of the bassman amps. Maybe the bass boost and a bright.

[dynaman]

I usually just stick a 330pf on the volume pot and don't think about it. Sometimes life is much easier when there are less choices.

Kinda like when I took the plunge into hifi and purchased a preamp that only had controls for balance and volume. Never missed the tone controls.

Why didn't you just build one ?

My Express is custom right now. My preamp tubes are a 6SN7 and a couple of 6SL7's. With my presence all the way down and the bright switch off for my bridge P-90 and the bright switch flipped to 500pf for my neck P-90. I'm running vintage Motorola and GE in the preamp and my OT's are vintage RCA 6L6GC blackplates. I have tamed it to the point that it takes pedals just fine , no extra noise at all.

Well, after making a powered sub and 60W monoblock amps, I figured I deserved a break and bought a name brand pre and turntable.

[passfan]

I usually just stick a 330pf on the volume pot and don't think about it. Sometimes life is much easier when there are less choices.

Kinda like when I took the plunge into hifi and purchased a preamp that only had controls for balance and volume. Never missed the tone controls.

Why didn't you just build one ?

My Express is custom right now. My preamp tubes are a 6SN7 and a couple of 6SL7's. With my presence all the way down and the bright switch off for my bridge P-90 and the bright switch flipped to 500pf for my neck P-90. I'm running vintage Motorola and GE in the preamp and my OT's are vintage RCA 6L6GC blackplates. I have tamed it to the point that it takes pedals just fine , no extra noise at all.

Well, after making a powered sub and 60W monoblock amps, I figured I deserved a break and bought a name brand pre and turntable.

Were those tube or solid state? I built a few solid state pieces of gear for my stereo and a few tube stereo amps. Sold most of them on ebay but still have the Pass A75. 75 watts of Class A stereo mosfet powered with a Bride of Son of Zen balanced linestage.

These diy projects can be found here along with others from Nelson Pass
http://www.passdiy.com/projects.htm

[PlinytheWelder]

These diy projects can be found here along with others from Nelson Pass
http://www.passdiy.com/projects.htm

I've been reading that site for years. I think I first heard of Silicon Carbide diodes over there. I may have built the first guitar amp using them as rectifiers or maybe not.

Between Nelson Pass and John Broskie over at TubeCad
http://www.tubecad.com/ there are some great ideas....