I decided I already have a 5E3 and I like the Matchless Spitfire so I merged them into this combo chassis, cabinet to follow.
Single channel two input jacks and two spst switches to kick in 10uf/1k2 in addition to the 25uf/1k5 bias. This switching works but not worth the effort so I will change one to a tone stack bypass switch.
I will get voltages tomorrow and hopefully some clear photos. For some reason my camera just would not clear up I think I was probably shaking too much, old age.
Fired it up and tried 6V6 and 6L6. It is not too trebly or too bassy just straight in the middle with a nice overdrive full throttle.
Mark
Spitfire/5E3
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Spitfire/5E3
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Last edited by M Fowler on Fri May 28, 2010 5:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Spitfire/5E3
Spitfire pre and PI? I think I've seen a builder do a 6V6 Spitfire with SS rectifier.
Re: Spitfire/5E3
Yes Spitfire all the way even the filter caps and dropping string. I did increase the bias resistor to 250R/5w.
So I have to take my voltages and see where I am at on the plates/screens. Might be able to give her even more voltage.
The PT and OT are MC units for the 5E3.
Mark
So I have to take my voltages and see where I am at on the plates/screens. Might be able to give her even more voltage.
The PT and OT are MC units for the 5E3.
Mark
Re: Spitfire/5E3
Hi Mark,
I have had the same trouble taking pictures.
If the lighting isn't good enough then the shutter stays open too long so any movement will blur the picture.
My solution was to use a tripod and the timer release on the camera.
For close ups you want to use the macro setting.
On my camera (Canon S3IS) if I have the macro setting on, it doesn't like the focus change, if I do it will blur.
Of course if you use a flash when taking amp pictures it will usually wash out the detail and colors.
What I do if I need to use the flash is to either lower the flash brightness or use a diffuser such as a piece of paper or clear film canister to lessen the flash.
I have had the same trouble taking pictures.
If the lighting isn't good enough then the shutter stays open too long so any movement will blur the picture.
My solution was to use a tripod and the timer release on the camera.
For close ups you want to use the macro setting.
On my camera (Canon S3IS) if I have the macro setting on, it doesn't like the focus change, if I do it will blur.
Of course if you use a flash when taking amp pictures it will usually wash out the detail and colors.
What I do if I need to use the flash is to either lower the flash brightness or use a diffuser such as a piece of paper or clear film canister to lessen the flash.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!
Re: Spitfire/5E3
Try that again. The old tag board came out of an Estey organ and ended up having to put eyelets in.
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Re: Spitfire/5E3
Very nice looking build. That tag board has the perfect proportions.
I have also just converted my 5E3 into a Spitfire type build. I initially thought about building a Windchime/Tweed Atlas but started by just wiring up the PI as a Vox LTP. That changed into a more familiar Fender LTP (.01uf/.1uF/22k/470R/1M/1M with 100k& 82K) which I prefer the more bluesy sound. I used a parallel first stage with a single knob 5F2 type tone control. Today I converted the second stage to a CF, so I have a normal Fender first stage followed by V1b as a CF. I really like this as it is, except I would like a little more gain. It is perfect with higher output PU's but not quite there with vintage strat level PU's. I may rewire V1 as a cascaded stage over the weekend.
I think that the LTP 6V6 cathode biased Deluxe is an amp that should have been created and is a really cool variation of the Deluxe.
I have also just converted my 5E3 into a Spitfire type build. I initially thought about building a Windchime/Tweed Atlas but started by just wiring up the PI as a Vox LTP. That changed into a more familiar Fender LTP (.01uf/.1uF/22k/470R/1M/1M with 100k& 82K) which I prefer the more bluesy sound. I used a parallel first stage with a single knob 5F2 type tone control. Today I converted the second stage to a CF, so I have a normal Fender first stage followed by V1b as a CF. I really like this as it is, except I would like a little more gain. It is perfect with higher output PU's but not quite there with vintage strat level PU's. I may rewire V1 as a cascaded stage over the weekend.
I think that the LTP 6V6 cathode biased Deluxe is an amp that should have been created and is a really cool variation of the Deluxe.
Re: Spitfire/5E3
I just rewired my Spitfire clone to take an EF86 pentode in V1. It immediately exposed some of my poor lead dress, but once I got that sorted out I had gain out the wazoo. Really sounds pretty amazing!Gee wrote:I really like this as it is, except I would like a little more gain. It is perfect with higher output PU's but not quite there with vintage strat level PU's. I may rewire V1 as a cascaded stage over the weekend.
I think that the LTP 6V6 cathode biased Deluxe is an amp that should have been created and is a really cool variation of the Deluxe.
<i> "I've suffered for my music. Now it's your turn."</i>
Re: Spitfire/5E3
Hey guys seems as we are taking that Spitfire into new territory with our builds good to hear your reports.
I really enjoy my spitfire head thought that maybe this would work out well in the 5E3 combo style and I think its a winner.
I really enjoy my spitfire head thought that maybe this would work out well in the 5E3 combo style and I think its a winner.