Help wiring impedence selector

[amplifiednation]

Hey guys, where does the ground connection go on this switch, and where do each of the impedance leads go? It's just a rotary switch, right, so each position is just one selection? And then I assume there is one common for ground, whch i probably the single terminal on the inside of the switch??

Any help would be great.

Thanks,
Taylor

[M Fowler]

Good lord I hate those switches. The build guide has some info on wiring the switch. Ron Worley did a few posts for guys having trouble if you can search for that.

I used Hoffman's heavy duty switch instead.

[rdjones]

Unless this is for one of those complicated Hammond series/parallel secondary OTs, the ground is common and not connected to the switch.

rd

[angelodp]

[IMG:940:572]http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii9/ ... ure2-2.png[/img]

[amplifiednation]

OK...so have the layout and still feel like i'm doing this all wrong. my switch isn't not exactly like the one in the pic. does anyone know how these switches work?? i def do not. i think that would help me figure this out for good.

[rdjones]

OK...so have the layout and still feel like i'm doing this all wrong. my switch isn't not exactly like the one in the pic. does anyone know how these switches work?? i def do not. i think that would help me figure this out for good.

When in doubt, Ohm it out.

rd

[martin manning]

Looks like the layout is showing a 2-pole, 6-position switch, with 3 of the 6 in use and the two poles paralleled for redundancy. The wiring is like the attached. If you can find the manufacturer's data sheet that will clear things up, or you can use your DMM to discover which terminals are which. I believe that the two terminals that are 180 degrees apart and not in line with the spacing of the others are the commons, which you tie together and run to the speaker jack.

[amplifiednation]

Looks like the layout is showing a 2-pole, 6-position switch, with 3 of the 6 in use and the two poles paralleled for redundancy. The wiring is like the attached. If you can find the manufacturer's data sheet that will clear things up, or you can use your DMM to discover which terminals are which. I believe that the two terminals that are 180 degrees apart and not in line with the spacing of the others are the commons, which you tie together and run to the speaker jack.

Nice thanks Martin. Maybe I do have it right so why the 6 position switch? There must be other options. Is this KF style or just a normal switch? My other production line amps give only three turns for this switch selection. I noticed there is a small washer on the stackpole with a long lead going into the switch. Can I postion that differently to change the switch at all?

[martin manning]

I don't know that particular switch, but I have seen models that use a movable stop of some kind to choose operation with any number of positions up to the maximum. No need for all those extra part numbers.

[M Fowler]

It is wired as doubled incase one side of the switch fails the other side is there to save your ass.

[amplifiednation]

finally understand this. thank you guys...again!!

[amplifiednation]

Is there a way to test this? Measure impedance out of the speaker jacks? I tried but wasn't getting consistant readings.

[M Fowler]

Right now your going to just get continuity because it is all tied to the OT.

Just make sure the switch is solder well and not touching parts it shouldn't.

They don't give you much room to work with on those switches.

[amplifiednation]

the switch would have been much easier without the jumpers. once i was done, i had to shorten the jumpers because i was worried there would be interfernence from the heaters on the terminal strip right behind the switch. i think i've got enough clearance now though. i think next time I'll go with a simpler switch...or maybe no switch at all muhahah

[angelodp]

You can also use teflon wire which has a smaller overall diameter.