Agreed. I just never had much luck with them. I can still hear them even when the pot is turned up (unless it is all the way up). I will give it another go anyway because each amp being different, this one may respond to a bright cap where my previous ones haven't.Bob-I wrote:Well first off, my impression is that this is the reason for the bright cap, adding brightness at lower volumes to offset the lack of brightness at low volumes.Tonegeek wrote: I still have some tweaking to do because the amp sounds a lot different cranked up than it does at low volume like when this clip was made. It gets brighter as I crank it up. If it did not get brighter, I would throw a bright cap on the master to make t a bit more crisp.
I spent some time today working with the amp at rehearsal volume and made several observations leading to some changes. I actually did have the master at about 11 oclock and the return at 12 and the send at 1. What I mostly observed today was how much the V1,V2 voltage and brand make difference. Contrary to something I said above in this thread, the lower plate v seems to be brighter. It is mushier. Earlier I think I misinterpreted the stiffer sound of higher voltage as being brighter when really it is not, just louder and holds up better when pushed. After much tube swapping and voltage changes I have decided a higher voltage is more useable for me. The main thing that convinced me was that with nothing but OD on, humbuckers (or at least the buckers in my Hamer) just do not sound right with too low a voltage. They have this upper mid dissonant ringing. Once I got the voltage above 190 on V1, the ringing stopped and the mid tones dropped in place. The double stop thing was not an issue anymore either. I now have the voltage in a range so that the circuit tolerates different tube types. I set mine using the FET sim resistor so that EH, JJ, GT and a Sovtek 12ax7wa that I have will all work without dropping the voltage too low. As an aside, I have never liked Sovtek 12ax7wa tubes, but I have a Fender branded one and with the right voltage and supporting circuitry, it sounds good.Bob-I wrote: Second try bringing the master volume up to about 11:00 and dropping the overall volume with the D-ulator return. It will get the master volume up to a level where it won't rob highs as much.
The other tweak I went back and forth on was the V2a coupler. I finally decided I like 20n over the #124 value. This is what I put in my last non-HRM build and again in this one. I also dropped back to the 270p snubber in V2b, but I lowered the treble bleed a tad too. I need to post a clip but may not have a chance today to make one. that's all for now...
